I originally had the R1 oil coolers in my FD. My oil temps were 100 to 110 with enlarged openings and excellent ducting. When I went with a single setrab 25 row oil cooler with small fan on the back and proper ducting, my oil temps dropped down from 105 average to 85 celsius average.

"As a hint I'll say I'm still going to use a cooler on the passenger side but its not going to be for oil haha

STEPHEN"



Radiator for water to air intercooler? :D

Where did you get that oil cooler? I'm on the hunt for the largest coolers that will fit good in the stock location. Was that particular cooler very expensive?

Thanks,
STEPHEN

I think the largest you can go(if you have an aftermarket front bumper) is a 34 row setrab. I got mine used from a friend, but he bought his 34 row from summit racing.

i am making a kit that will replace the factory lines with stainless braid...plug and go

this would allow anyone to get a passenger side oil cooler to double the cooling capacity

it will be sold through gotham racing

Upgraded oil cooling is probably more important than upgraded radiator for road racing. Here's my experience:

I have single stock oil cooler with temp sensor at oil filter pedestal.

Buttonwillow:

ambient temps - 95F, track temps - God only knows, after only a few laps, water temps were 225-230F and oil temps were 260F

Thunderhill:

ambient temps - 50F, after a full 25 minute session, water temps were 210F, oil temps still exceeded 250F.

Yes, I need to upgrade oil cooling!!

BTW, for those of you who don't like the full CWC kit, you can buy just the passenger side larger cooler and keep your stock driver-side cooler and t-stat. That should avoid most of the problems that 1FuknTiteFD experienced...

Baker's has a huge selection of oil coolers:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm

Now regarding the stainless steel hoses, here are several options:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp2.htm
and
http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp1.htm

Both do not have a stainless steel covering which can rub against metal and cause damage somewhere. I talked to Bakers regarding the 2nd hose. Those just scare me since they are only slip on, but they ARE good for 250psi....MORE than enough needed for our oil system. I told them I would be using it for an oil cooling system, and they told me it would not be a problem at all.

As convienent as it would be to install the R1 cooling system, I plan to make my own. But don't wait for me cuz I have other things going at the moment (Like school :p: ) I will probably go the Setrab way and get my own hoses. Which hoses? Well, probably the socketless ones. Bakers has been around for a while and I will trust his judgement.

I did a quicky price out on a big dual systemand it came up around $500 or so with the socktless hoes. The StartLite Lightweight hoses will probably end up being another $200 or so.

Batboy, be a man and build your own :D

When I asked Mariah about duplcating the CWC setup the said they could NOT beat CWC's price even w/out the Carbonfiber Ducts. - the reason CWC's kit is the best is the Beautifull duct work and the fact that all the braided hoses are made up to fit - the Kits down fall is the fact they hang the thermostat directy off the block supported just on a 90deg fitting - a better solution is to make up a short line and mount the thermostat to the chassis somewere or add a bracket to support the t-stat on the block and take the strain off the fitting.

You guys bashing the CWC also need to read Chris Regan's write up on his install. I don't think he's experienced any problems with his install. His forum name is Crispyrx7, I don't have website bookmarked at work...

I've heard that someone locally is modifying the block to t-stat fitting with something more flexible. Mine hasn't failed, and neither has several other local folk's kits, but one local one has. Once i get info on the mod, i'll update the forum. Other than that, you're wise to go through and sheath the braded lines in places to prevent abrasion. Its a tight fit, after all.

Local track junkies have all found the R1 duals to be inadequate on track. They'd be fine for the street, although a nice side benefit of the CWR is lower and much more stable water temps on the street, and particularly in traffic.

Everybody always thinks CWC is over priced and that you can build it cheaper since the coolers themselves are affordable. What makes the CWC so expensive is the thermostat, the hose, all the fittings (AN fittings are expensive!), the mounting brakcets and the ducts. You can go by some oil coolers and some hose, but once you actually get everything installed in the car and add up your costs you'll realize the CWC wasn't such a bad deal...

That said I would never mount the thermostat as the CWC kit does. The thermostat should be solidly mounted and have a flexible hose connecting it to the engine.

i agree, CWC is a nice piece and well worth the money

got a kit to replace a beat up driver side oil cooler?

220k+ miles does beat the car a bit

there isn't much water in the oil. VERY little. What is there though mixes with the other inorganic oil contaminates and creates acids that tend to corrode engine parts. To get out that last little bit of water, you have to get the "mixture" very near/beyond the boiling point...otherwise it will stay. I guess that chem eng. degree's gotta be used for something these days...

No one is pouring water in your oil when the car is sitting there...it is absorbing it from the moisture from the air. Actually it condenses...pull a spark plug someday on a nice cool morning...it's wet with water...or it is in a piston engine. Not honestly sure of a rotary :)

granted...you don't really have to have ALL of the oil at greater than 212 to get most of the drying benefits. As long as somewhere in the system it is reaching that point and has some place to vent the gasses produced...you should mostly be ok. Drive the car for 3-4 minutes...i.e. not fully warmed up but some...and while idling remove the oil filler cap...steam will be coming out.

for example if your temp probe is right after the cooler(s) you may never see 212 or higher on your guage...but somewhere in the motor oil system it better be getting darn close to that where it can vent the water vapors produced.

Yes, some synthetics are better than others.

John

the combustion process does produce some quantities of water. I suspect that is where the oil gets it from.

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/cwrcoolers.htm

Some additional input:
1) 240deg F is NOT an ideal oil temp and if you think so you are off your rocker! Oil temps right around 220 *OR LOWER* should be your target

2) The CWR kit price can probably be matched but you would be VERY hard pressed to beat it and even then how valuable is your "development" time. And can you mold CF ducts in your garage?

3) I agree the Tsat location configuration is terrible and a failure waiting to happen. To date though, the rigid 90deg elbow has not loosened on me. And for the gent whose elbow failed not once but twice, shame on you for not buying a spare after the first failure which left you "stranded." I carry a spare 90deg elbow in my toolbox and a pair of male to male adapetrs to remove and bypass the tstat entirely if it fails also. Always be prepared. Cheap insurance to have a couple spares if you are a regular track junkie. And especially if you have something your know to be questionable.

FWIW,
Crispy

Water doesn't evaporate out of a closed system. Fill a bowl with water and then put some saran wrap over it before placing it outside. You'll find the water stays in the bowl ;)

Oil has a "happy" operating temp. Too cold and the oil is thick and not doing as good a job at providing a wedge between parts with small clearances. Too hot and the oil begins to break down; usually the lubricating properties decline first, followed by the detergents. Getting the oil hot enough to boil the water out is a good thing. Realize that getting rid of the water doesn't mean your oil temp gauge has to read high; the local temperatures within the bearings themselves are higher than what you read on your gauge.

(sorry. teeter said much of this already)

I'd be all for the CWR kit if they made ducts that fit my 99 Spec bumper! :(

Uh...what? :confused: Other than initial startup/warmup condensation from moisture in the intake/combustion chambers/exhaust, and the initial "lighting off" of the catalyzer, where is this water produced?

Heh..."polyester basestocks"? Isn't that the same stuff they used to make those disco shirts/pants from the 70s out of? :p:

Nope. Sure can't.
But the ones the kit comes with probably wouldn't fit the Feed Front end.

You know, I thought their dual kit used ot be a LOT more. Like almost in the $1000 range. I remember they use to see a single oil cooler upgrade kit for around $500 and then their dual for almost $1000 when the kits first came out a few years ago.

Whoops, my bad....... :D


I meant to say that the significant difference between Red Line and other synthetics and petroleums is the ability to withstand high temperatures without decomposition. The polyol esters used by Red Line have a significantly greater degree of thermal stability compared to the synthetic hydrocarbons and petroleum lubricants. In fact, the polyol esters are the only lubricants capable of properly lubricating a modern jet turbine engine.


I'll try to slow down on the post whoring and pay attention to the grammer and spelling.

Dewd, actually it's a lot easier if you just cut and paste from the Redline oils website:

Another significant difference between Red Line and other synthetics and petroleums is the ability to withstand high temperatures without decomposition. The polyol esters used by Red Line have a significantly greater degree of thermal stability compared to the synthetic hydrocarbons and petroleum lubricants. In fact, the polyol esters are the only lubricants capable of properly lubricating a modern jet turbine engine.

That way you don't have to worry about "grammer" and spelling. :D

Ah....... a forgotten art :D

So can you just go to your local mazda dealer and get the passenger oil cooler for the R1? and will it mount right up to your Touring or Base model?

Yep.

Here's a parts listing:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_cooler.html

And as a reference, here's a nice little pic:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/f/l/flybye/frontend3.jpg

Some will say, though, that it will be much cheaper to simply buy the parts in a junkyard and have the cooler washed out, or for the price of all the parts, for jsut a few hundred more you can get yourself the big upgrade kit.