i can understand changing the oil often if you're using the stock omp, but if you premix, it'll last a LONG time. then again, i've got a 9 quart capacity, so 3-4k miles isn't a big deal for me.

Ok gus, after reading this 3d, i will change.
I will stop using Valvoline Turbo V motor oil 10w30
And
I will start using Royal Purple 10w40
Good and Thanks to evrebody for the help

Anyone using Bardahl oil???
Thansk

castrol gtx 20-50

Castrol 20W-50 here too

Royal purp

I was using this untill i started to have problems when i put the turbo on it, after the oil got hot the pressure would be super low 20psi@3000rpms then i switched to castrol gtx 20w-50 and the oil pressure is much better 50psi@3000rpms.

I dont think the VR1 like the High temps of a turbo

Royal Purple every 2k. It's not recycled oil.

Plain old Valvoline All-Climate 10W-30 dino juice and OEM filters, changed every 1,000 to 3,000 miles, depending on how much gasoline is in the oil. (A lot, lately.) I also use a bottle of pre-mixed Marvel Mistery Oil in every tankful of gas.

I use Mobile 1 5W-30 in the Corvette and Subaru.

I use Amsoil 20 w 50 race oil and a Bosche filter every 2000 miles. I also run premix Amsoil HP injector oil, 4oz. to 20 gal.

I Use 2 Quarts Castrol 10w40 And 3 Quarts Of 20w50

take a close look at wal-mart supertech brand filters. you'll notice they have the same markings and size as a bosch filter... the only difference i can see is the label... even on the internals. both are made in the usa as well... funny for a german filter huh?

also, someone else mentioned it being bad to mix mineral and syn. this is not true.

and to the thread starter... did you really think you could get us to agree on one single oil?!?!

Royal Purple or Idemitsu are the best synths IMHO...but I like Castrol GTX when changing a lot.

My last TII went 170k on ORIGINAL ENGINE before I traded on an FD and it ran great! I believe I had about 100psi to 110psi per chamber if I remember correctly and great oil pressure. Driven 100+ miles per day to work and back! I also ran it VERY hard and fast with no issues.

I used Castrol GTX 10w30 for winter and 20/50 summer. Stock OMP system....and Mazda oil filters....

One tip is this: Check the METAL dipstick and see if the oil is sticking to it evenly (making a good oil film) when checking the level (do this at every gas fill up)...IF it is not making an even oil film on the dip-stick, then it is not sticking to the bearings with a good film of oil either...CHANGE your oill....

Also, IF you smell gas in the oil (most likely after boosting heavily for extended periods :) )....change it....

Just my .02 cents in this old thread I just revived... :D

castrol 20-50

chevron, because its free for me. I do my oil changes ever 1-1.5k. I live in cali bay area. I see after 5 pages, no one uses this oil. I do use a mazda oil filter tho =D

Mobil One 15-50 during the summer months...I live in AZ. Then switch to Mobil One 0-40 for the rest of the year. 0-40 is the only approved motor oil for Porsche motorcars and can only be bought at a Porsche dealer.

How many liters of oil does a FD 13B take?

I got the same answer from Mazda Motorsport in the 80's "some are better than other, but since we will not give favorites we say no to all." but then I was asked do I care about the warranty period or long engine life aand told me to stay with synthetics. When I asked for brand reccomendation, I was told tell me what you use and I'll tell you good or bad.

Funny I used Mobil 1 and was told that was a good syn for the rotary.

P.S.: for 25 years I have used Mobil 1 10W-40 winter or 20W-50 summer w/ Mazda or Mobil 1 filters on both the road and track

same here

Mobil 1 10W-30 wix filter

Castrol GTX 20w/50 and K&N oil filter

Why is the majority of Rx7 owners using 20w-50? and is it full synthetic?

The user manual says 10w-30 non synthetic, now i know the user manual was written sometime ago.... I am looking to put full synthetic in my car and was just wondering the best option for myself.

Im in Canada and it gets pretty hot in the summer, would 20w-50 have an advatages during the summer? then say 10w-30 ? (full synthetic both)

Castrol GTX 20w-50 in summer (it gets f-ing hot here), 10w-30 in winter. Change it every three months, which is in the realm of 1-1.5k miles for me.

castrol gtx here too

used to use idemitsu but couldnt afford to change it every 5k at $100 a case... since changing over I've actually noticed the car runs better with the GTX

mobile 1 15w50 change it every 850 miles

Valvoline 10W30 mineral, Mazda OE filter, change oil every 2000-2500 miles, 1 filter each 2 oil changes.

castrol 10w30 - when in Japan I was told - Do not put Mobil 1 in our cars - it could damage the seals- never put it in the fd.

My friend with a turbo integra does the same exact thing. Change filter each 2 oil changes.

I dont understand why. If you're already down there, does it just help to just change the filter too?? I mean sure its more money but how much are filters these days? 5 bucks? lol

Idk, maybe it doesnt make a difference but i just like to complete the "oil change job" by replacing all the necessities.

The reasoning is that the filter capacity isn't the reason I change oil that often - it's the dilution of the oil with gasoline that makes 2000-2500 mile change intervals necessary. Since the filter only holds a pint or less, its change is not necessary every time to get fresh, undiluted oil.

Yeah that makes sense.

Thanks for the info.

Valvoline VR1 Racing 20w-50 every 1500 miles + new filter .... for my DD FD

What does a porsche engine have to do with our cars?

(Hint: the answer is very close to nothing)

Dave

royal purple 20-50

Wesson or Crisco Pure Canola oil mixed with Marvel Mystery Oil...you simply can't beat it.
And your car smells like French fries.

Shell 10-40 non synthetic and change every 600m miles ( 1000km ) with filter change as well....

---------> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=ZDDP
Just thought this might be appropriate to the thread.

Remember that the reason the anti-wear additives were reduced was to prevent fouling and disabling the catalytic converter(s)...

So if you do still have a cat, and run a "racing" oil, be aware that it may shorten the cat's life.

Dave,
While that's a factor, are we sure that's completely true with the higher exhaust temps we see? And that's a question, not an argument.

I don't really know what would happen in our case, but I just wanted to raise the point, since several people said they used racing (high in antiwear additives) oil or added the GM anti-wear supplement. I'd really like to use one or the other, BTW, but I don't since I don't want to ruin my cat.

Zinc and phosphorus (the two components within ZDDP that are deemed poisonous to cats) are basically minerals, so the high exhaust temps of a rotary won't make any difference. They're still going to deposit on the cat substrate regardless.

Molbil 1 filter and Royal Purple 15w30 at 2000 miles.

Turbos and synthetic oil go together

Injected with Mercury "Quick Silver" Premium Plus 2-cycle outboard oil.

RP 20/50 - Probably will convert back to Castrol 20/50 before too long.

heh, that's about the only mazda I DON'T have. I meant that I use a 626-V6 oil filter because it's a little bigger, and still fits fine on an FD (or an FC, or a Miata, or a Protege, etc.).

Royal purple 10-30 changed every 2,500 miles on my DD Fd.

just switched to royal purple 10w-30 today and it has almost cured my idle issues ... weird. temps seem to be more under control too.