i think thats the case. We know another guy who has had that same battery for a while as well. the only time either of them have to jump their cars is when the battery is left sitting for a month or more without starting...

Very cool work! Wish I had that kind of energy and patience.

Seems like it would introduce alot of electrical gremlins though, since instead of having a large amount of current flowing through the lower gauge wire, you now have lower current traveling longer distances to its final destination. Plus, I'd hate to be the one to debug a problem should one of those wires get nicked and short along its path to the front...

Count me in! I'm sensing the hostility in this thread also.....

*Gearing Up For Battle*

-Adam

you raise an interesting point...

And your a fucking dirty cunt rag.... but hey, I was going to leave that in the closet.


There is no picture of the harness, which is all I wanted to see, so shut the fuckup!

Cory man chill out....don't bring that kind of stuff into this thread. I'll post pictures of everything here in a few days. I have all the wires wrapped with loom, or most of them. I have yet to tuck everything up behind the headlight, but it shouldn't bulge out at all. If it does it will be very minimal.

Stokedxiv is right about me not drilling any holes. I ran all the wires through a pre-existing hole in the driver side fire wall, except the starter wire which ran through the shifter boot. I have tested the headlights, blinkers, and pretty much all accessory functions. So far everything seem to work well. I did not leave them on for an extended period of time though. I've had my battery sitting for about a month or more now and it still had 12 volts in it.

I'll post pictures of the track I used to route the wires along with everything else.

Wow dude, chill out. You were obviously in the wrong here and weren't paying attention to the entire thread.

love you too sweetie ;)

Update time!

I've finished wrapping all the wires to my satisfaction. It's not very easy to get in behind the wires near the headlight, but I did my best. Anyway I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. In the picture it my look like the loom bulges out, but it really doesn't. I don't think you would notice it if you didn't know to look for it.
Note: I still have to find some sort of gromet and seal for the wires coming through the firewall. I haven't found anything sufficient yet.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=109610

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=109611

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=109612

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=109613

Looking good Scrub!!

I just got started on this yesterday! The only thing I did diffrent was rip up the white plastic peice along the door sill and I ran my wires through it. I also wrapped all the wires in electrical tape like they are in the engine compartment. Only bad part is if something goes wrong, ima have alot of sticky shit all over the place! :)

-Alex

sounds good Alex, I don't think my wires would fit in that plastic thing. There are just too many. If you can get them all to fit, then more power to ya :)

Good luck with your relocation

-Dan

Edit: Charlie suggested i post a pic from further away.....HERE!!

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=109624

this is a cool project, you FD guys suck, i wish i had one

If you make a slit in the plastic, and mush the crap out of it, it'll fit! :)

I got a question though...I can't figure out how you relocated the harness, or where exactly you relocated it to. The only thing I can come up with is that you removed the fender, and placed it in there instead of the engine compartment?! If you have any pictures/comments on how/where you put it, i'd GREATLY appreciate it!!

-Alex

TT_Rex_7 , instead of electrical tape use Vinyl tape got a link for you.

http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pro...1&keyword=tape

Kinetik FD3s, I think i have some of that stuff laying around. 3M also makes it I believe. If im not mistaken though, the tape is a lot thicker then regular electrical tape.

Alex,
As for the wiring harness. I am guessing you are talking about the driver side engine harness? If you are, I just extended the connecters up under the fender. If you take the fender liner off you will see a frame that runs with the fender. I routed the harness wires through that and pushed the connectors through the hole under the brake booster. I can try to take some pictures of that, but I don't know how well they will come out.

Good job man, that looks very clean. Please post some more shots when the car's all put back together.

-s-

Ok Scrub, i'm about to have a nervous breakdown!! How the HELL did you get the connectors off of the larger relay box?! The one that you have placed next to the negative (-) side of your battery.

-Alex

Very nicely done. I think this is what I'm going to tackle this winter. With the motor out as well, this should make for a pretty easy project, especially following your lead. Who needs bins anyway? :D

Railgun, the bins are too small to fit pretty much anything...you're right who needs them?! :) Now I just need to find a place to store some tools just in case.

Alex,
Don't be so hard on yourself; Scissors will do the job nicely. Actually I cut that box off about 3-6 inches down to allow extra room for error to lengthen the wires.

I put the finishing touches on the bin lastnight, if I had to do it again I wouldn't try to run the alternator and starter wire through the hole I cut in the bottom of the bin. You can't see how the wires come through unless you like jump in the car, but I think the wires would have fed through easier if the hole was in the side next to the rest of the wires. I'll snap a few more pictures and post them when I get a chance. Alex, if you need pictures of anything let me know.

-Dan

i think thats the coolest relocation ive ever seen, i never liked the idea of hacking up a bin JUST for the battery but putting all those fuses and relays seems to make more use of the space... someday i'll have to do that myself :bigthumb:

Man, this is just what i needed to see. i'm in the middle of a 20b project and just finished painting my engine bay last night. it looks all spic and span except for those wires and fuse boxes on the drivers side. this relocation just might be the ticket, and i already have most of the car torn apart to do it too! the write up, pictures, and materials list is GREATLY appreciated. see how much better the pass. side looks than the drivers side, that will be remedied with help from you guys!!! Thanks!

http://www.slcrotary.com/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=432

I was afraid of that! :( I was hoping I could solder all the wires outside of the car, wrap them in loom, and tape them. Then all i'd have to do is push the connectors through the hole that's in the firewall from the factory. It would have been easier to keep track of what wire goes to which that way. This would have been alot easier with the motor out of the car! :)

-Alex

Thanks for the links and writeups. I think I'll be using that battery and tray or one of the other combos listed on that site for my soon to be done battery relocation. Will probably do the big job of putting things in the bin later on.

-ray

Alex,
I did solder the wires outside of the car and then push them through. It's so much easier that way. I thought you were asking how to get the fuse box off, maybe I'm just confused now.

Paximus, man that sure looks clean, except that jumble on the driver side ;)

What I can't figure out is how to get the several white, and 2 yellow connections off of the large relay box. It was easy to get the connections off of the smaller one that attaches to the battery, but I can't figure out how to yank the connectors off the box on the larger relay box. I can't even tell how the hell they attach?!

-Alex

This one right here!

-Alex

Why are you needing to take those out? I did with all without taking them out and didnt read any mention of him doing that either.

I was wanting to remove them, and extend them outside of the car. I just think it'd be alot easier. I don't think you can remove them though. I guess i'll just have to cut it, extend the wires, and solder the wires back to the connections inside the car.

-Alex

Alex, you're not making any sense haha....cut the fuse box out with some slack....extend the wires from the fuse box outside the car...put everything in the bin. Put the bin in the car, then run the wires and connect them in the engine bay. I guess thats what you mean...if you're still having problems IM me dmcvic7702

:)

I finally have something completed! :) Just finished relocating the harness that leads to the alt., ps, starter, ect. ect.

I started by taking off all the original electrical tape. Then I cut the wires that lead to the starter, oil pan, and something else. (don't remember :) ) I took quite a bit of wire out of each one due to them being WAY to long. After that I soldered them back together, and used heat shrink. Then I used that friction tape ya'll showed me, and wrapped ALL the wires with it. To insure I wouldn't have any problems, I put high temp loom over all the wires, and wrapped that with high temp electrical tape! I don't think i'll be having any problems with this harness!! :)

-Alex

Alex, Harness looks great. Thats actually the final thing I have to do. So now I have a few questions for you. Is the alternator wires too long or not long enough? I am about to re-wrap that harness as well, but I was gonna wait till the engine went back in. BTW I re-used the grommet to run the cables through the firewall. You have to make the hole bigger that holds it in place though :)

double

There was only 3 wires I had to shorten. One leads to the starter (12 awg), one leads to the oil pan (blue wire), and the other leads to something by the spark plugs. It looks like a small starter. :) I'm really not sure what it is. lol I'm not sure what you used to wrap the wires, but DO NOT use the friction tape. Although it's a mess with all the sticky shit from electrical tape, it's a PITA to get the friction tape off. Once it's on there, it's just about permanent. Trust me, I learned the hard way!

I'm just about finished installing it in the car, so i'll take some pictures of it tonight. This way, you'll know if you have to change anything else. Just in case we ran our harness diffrent ways.

-Alex

Looking good.

bump can you repost pics on page one?

Please stop bumping threads that are 5 years old! This is the second thread that you've done this to. Asking for more pictures/details/etc. 5 years after the thread was started.

You'll have to PM them if you want a response -- provided they're even still on the site.


This is ridiculous.

Did this mod. Not fun.
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Battery%20Bin.jpg

Nice!!!

may as well make this a "show us your totally pointless fuse box relocation" thread
Mine:
http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/p...u/LGIM0103.jpg

Its called a wire tuck =P

Agree it's ridiculous, but it's pretty easy to tell if someone still frequents the forum....In this case I do. I'll see if I can dig up the pics.

LOL . I know you do! It was one of those nights :(

Sorry to muibubbles. I can play nice-nice

http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/

Digging up old threads is a sign of someone using the search function.

Would you rather them open a new thread requesting pictures, or would you just complain about that too?

JFC!

You can't make anybody happy here (unless your bringing something new) so why don't we just STFU and help people learn, instead of turning them down & looking like an A-HOLE in the same sentence.

The question I have is:

why go through all the trouble, if your just moving stuff around?

Why wouldn't you totally relocate all fuse blocks and moveable junctions to the bins (or somewhere outsid the engine bay)?

I have yet to see a complete tuck/ junction relocation.

Why has this not been done?

Just wait until I post photos

I'd actually prefer them to PM the original author. Did you not read my post? :lol:

Bump!

Tell ya what, Why don't you keep your snot nose remarks out of my thread kiddo.

There is no room to move the relay box and the fuse boxes into the bin. Jason (HWND) has a much better relocation in the works then I have done anyway.

Here are all the pictures I could find. I can take new pictures of the bin in the car if needed.

Initial mockup

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...eboxmockup.jpg

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...ountingtab.jpg

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/cablerun.jpg

Running the new wires through the extra hole on the firewall.
*Note* I modified the stock hole plug after this picture was taken to keep water/dirt out of the interior.

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w.../cablerun2.jpg

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...atteryhole.jpg

Tools needed for the job

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...elo/before.jpg

Battery box used to hold battery in place

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...batterybox.jpg

Custom ghetto aluminum backing plate to keep battery secure. If I had to do this again I probably would have used longer bolts. If you use longer bolts you can just loosen them instead of completely removing them (which is a pain)

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...numbacking.jpg

I wouldn't recommend relocating the diagnostics box, as you can see here it's still in the engine bay.

http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...shedfender.jpg

I'll answer that in two parts..

a)
Have you ever seen the front/main harness with tape & flex-loom removed? It's a good sized trunk of cabling. The cost of replacing this harness with a new one is about $2k

b)
This isn't meant to be a stab at people who have done 'relocation' mods but I haven't seen a single guy increase the cable sizes of a few key batt+ supplies. What do I mean? ...well the harness (front/main) was designed by some pretty bright fellas but what we ended up with is a cheaper version of that idea. The power-wires are just big enough (in terms of gage) to pass, the quality is so/so.

What should happen when we redesign the loom layout is to increase (or decrease) the gage-size where needed. For example, when I planned to relocate the fan-relays I knew that they were FURTHER away from the intended end-point and also FURTHER away from the power source. To maintain the an ideal heat-range within the wire(s) - the sizes had to be increased.
in other words, semi-major redesign was needed.

Point I'm really trying to make is this:
...yeah sure - snipe,cut,tape your way into a better looking engine bay by removing those fuse boxes and relays to the rear bins and i'm sure you can simply extend the cables needed to do so but it simply wouldn't be correct. So much power is drawn through the ignition-key-switch (fans, fuel pump, headlights, etc) that it gets pretty damn hot! To do something like this proper - you would need to spend more time on it than it might be worth.

..unless you ditched all the fuses and relays! WTF am I talking about? MOSFETS / solid state relays! Power Distribution Management (PDM) to the rescue.

So if you've fully committed to the idea of relocating those fuse boxes.. just get rid of them all together - you have no idea how much easier the installation and management from there on out
would be. PDM's are generally configurable to a wide degree. Mine has wireless capabilities which allows me to control (via key-fob) any function of the PDM units capabilities. Wiring these things up is a little easier (actually a shit load easier) than rewiring the car properly while keeping the relays and junk.

Dont think about rushing out to buy a PDM any time soon - a starter package from Motec will run you about $3k and you probably couldn't wire the car up with all the stock options working. Starter kits typically are 14 inputs (high beam, low beam, flashers, turn signals, etc) so you are going to be needing two of the entry level motec pdm (Motec PDM16 if you want something to search for).


I've started what I believe to be a proper job. My main goal (initially) was to remove the front/main harness completely from the car and de-pin the connectors that I wouldn't be using (stock MAP sensor, ignition amp, etc). De-pinning a connector involves (with the tape removed of course) removing the wire & plug down to the connector on the other end. For example, to remove the MAP sensor plug - there is a common ground & common 5v+ trunk that the MAP sensor "Tee's" from as well as the 5v+ signal running to the ECU side of the car. De-pinning removes every trace of the wires associated with the connector-plug itself. There were a lot of those types of connectors to remove for my situation.

Once I had all the tape, loom & useless-connectors off the harness - I now wanted to "re-route" the harness so that I wouldn't have the big 'ol nasty trunk running along the fender well. In fact, think about the actual devices up there in the front of the car (Fans, horn, lights, signal, fog, etc).
well that main trunk that runs along the front of the car (under the hood latch area) only needed to be half that size (in diameter) at most. If I ran all the cabling under the dash (instead of around the front of the car) I could totally clean up my engine bay wiring..

well, now you know my goal and some minor insight as to why i picked a PDM over doing the harness proper justice (if keeping the realys,etc).. I wont have to worry about over heating wires (which DOES cause fires) and a whole host of benefits of the PDM system itself.

...I've had too much coffee & I'm going to stop typing right there. :-)

I've had just a few ::laughs:: conversations with Dan on wiring and such

This is what we need. (information sharing)

Jason, did you bounce on the ISIS system, because of it not having enough inputs?

The weight savings alone is a HUGE advantage.

Heat from extra strain & length of wire was a risk I wasn't taking into account either. (thanks again)

I've used MOSFET's in the past (airsoft application) but it never crossed my mind for automotive application.:icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tu p:

Thanks!

P.S. Further measures degree, farther measures distance.:lol:

P.S.S. I wasn't trying to be smug, it bothers me when I see people talk down to someone for asking for help on a PUBLIC forum. As for PM'ing someone to ask about the pictures... How about the YOU PM the thread bumper, asking them to PM the OP. (instead of thrashing them on a public forum, contrary to your complaint)

That's what mine is, for the most part. I relocated the two fuse boxes to the passenger bin, and I did a V8 swap and moved to sleek lights, plus I have an R2, and I removed the horns, so the only relays I needed are headslight, TNS, and 3 for the cooling fans (I went from lo-med-hi to just med-hi speeds). The two light relays are tucked under the DS headlight, and the 3 fan relays under the PS headlight. I also got rid of the entire SRS system, which eliminated a lot of wires, 5 sensors, and the control box. Since I eliminated SO many wires, I rebuilt the front wiring harness in a MUCH smaller loom, and am running it in front of the bumper support. Also, not pictured, but I was able to move the wheel speed sensor wires to under the fender liner, instead of through the engine bay. I've also eliminated AC, and am running the engine wire harness through the firewall where the AC hoses were, so you see a little less of the harness compared to the factory harness hole. If I could only bring myself to eliminate ABS and the wipers, I would have a pretty wireless engine bay.

Airbag shit out:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/ABS%20Stuff.jpg

Fan relays over oil cooler (note that the top harness is the SRS, which is now removed):
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Photo-0169.jpg

Again, the top harness and crash sensor are now gone, but here's the new, smaller harness tcked neatly away behind the front bumper:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Photo-0171.jpg


Here are where the two light relays are hidden. I've since cleaned up the wires here, don't worry:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Photo-0172.jpg

Repost of the battery box:
http://myweb.usf.edu/~cbmurphe/Battery%20Bin.jpg