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-   -   Throttle body coolant bypass / removal (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/throttle-body-coolant-bypass-removal-1094478/)

AUS-FD3S 01-08-16 10:08 AM

Throttle body coolant bypass / removal
 
I did do a search but mainly came across 2nd Gen threads, can someone please confirm which is the correct method for relocating/deleting the coolant lines to the throttle body.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...34f877811.jpeg


Do you:<br/><br/>1) Block off A, B, C and D.<br/><br/>Or<br/><br/>2) Block off C and D, then add a hose between A and B.<br/>

Houstonderk 01-08-16 10:26 AM

I went from A to B., block of C and D. But the thermowax does help alot during cold weather driving.

IRPerformance 01-08-16 12:15 PM

Easiest way is to loop A to B, but the best way is to remove the two nipples and then weld them shut (not recommended with the motor assembled) or tap and insert -an plugs. Cold start and idle is not significantly affected if you tune for it.

Sgtblue 01-08-16 01:11 PM

^This unless you use the line for an aftermarket temp gauge sensor. Then just loop it.

AUS-FD3S 01-08-16 04:13 PM

What's the risk of blocking A and B by leaving an inch of hose connected and putting a bung inside the hoses instead of welding the nipples.

Also just wanted to note the climate conditions aren't an issue where I live.

Thank you

Sgtblue 01-09-16 07:32 AM

Doing it that way leaves you with four potential failure points. Tapping them for -AN is cleaner and permanent, but admittedly would be harder on the rear iron with the engine in the car. I would absolutely do it if the engine came out.

DaleClark 01-09-16 08:43 AM

I concur with Ihor, take the hose that goes from the back of the block to the throttle body and re-route it to the water pump housing, A to B. There's a good amount of room for the hose to safely run.

If you had it out of the car and was doing major work, it can make sense to block off those 2 holes. But, that's going a long way for something that can really be quite reliable.

Big one for me, though, is PROPERLY removing the thermowax rod from the throttle body. If it's left on there zip-tied out of the way that can, possibly, bind up on the throttle body and cause the throttle to stick open. This is CRAZY dangerous. You do have to remove and then re-adjust the TPS to take the whole thermowax off, but it's really just on there with some screws and maybe a snap ring.

Dale

Sgtblue 01-09-16 10:33 AM

1 Attachment(s)
^ FWIW, I've had my looped (A to B) for years b/c I use the hose for the temp sensor. Not visible, but IIRC they were double clamped at both ends. Never had issues....

Attachment 616807


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