Technical question about the FD
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 302
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From: Montreal, QC, Canada
This question could sound stupid but is it normal that when I go right away at WOT when I'm changing gears the car is overboosting (sometimes 14-15 PSI) and if push gradually the gaz pedal I get my steady 10-8-10 PSI boost patern ?
Thanks !
Thanks !
No, not that high. You could damage your engine at those levels. Exhaust mods will make this worse.
Search this forum for 'boost spike'. You may need a boost controller or similar.
Dave
Search this forum for 'boost spike'. You may need a boost controller or similar.
Dave
Sounds like a you're having a boost issue 
Check the vacuum lines for cracks etc. That could be the route of your problem. And you definatly don't want your car boosting that high without some sort of ECU upgrade.

Check the vacuum lines for cracks etc. That could be the route of your problem. And you definatly don't want your car boosting that high without some sort of ECU upgrade.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,783
Likes: 642
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Do not put the pedal to the metal again until you have this issue resolved.......you're risking serious motor damage. Check all the vacuum lines and check valves you can get at, and make sure that your wastegate actuator arm is properly functioning. If the small horseshoe clipped worked it's way off, your wastegate could be stuck partially closed......
Originally posted by RX7 Rotary Rocket
So a stock FD should never go over 10 PSI at WOT even with intakes, downpipe and catback ?
So a stock FD should never go over 10 PSI at WOT even with intakes, downpipe and catback ?
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Originally posted by RX7 Rotary Rocket
So a stock FD should never go over 10 PSI at WOT even with intakes, downpipe and catback ?
So a stock FD should never go over 10 PSI at WOT even with intakes, downpipe and catback ?
How can you call an FD with intake, d/p, and c/b STOCK?
Of course you are going to boost over 10 psi with those mods.....
OK guys, as soon as I read his first post and then checked the sig pics I saw he was running an intake and exhaust system.......then I saw he had no ECU.
Hell, I aint even that dumb
Hell, I aint even that dumb
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, QC, Canada
I'm sorry that I'm not as bright as you are and that's why I'm asking questions so I won't damage my engine.
I won't push to hard until I get a Pettit Racing or Power FC ECU.
IMO having intakes, downpipe and catback are not big modifications compared to streetported engine, single turbo, fuel pump and those things.
Please keep your bad comments for yourself and try to help other RX-7 owners.
I won't push to hard until I get a Pettit Racing or Power FC ECU.
IMO having intakes, downpipe and catback are not big modifications compared to streetported engine, single turbo, fuel pump and those things.
Please keep your bad comments for yourself and try to help other RX-7 owners.
Originally posted by RX7 Rotary Rocket
I'm sorry that I'm not as bright as you are and that's why I'm asking questions so I won't damage my engine.
I won't push to hard until I get a Pettit Racing or Power FC ECU.
IMO having intakes, downpipe and catback are not big modifications compared to streetported engine, single turbo, fuel pump and those things.
Please keep your bad comments for yourself and try to help other RX-7 owners.
I'm sorry that I'm not as bright as you are and that's why I'm asking questions so I won't damage my engine.
I won't push to hard until I get a Pettit Racing or Power FC ECU.
IMO having intakes, downpipe and catback are not big modifications compared to streetported engine, single turbo, fuel pump and those things.
Please keep your bad comments for yourself and try to help other RX-7 owners.
But the modifications you list can cause you to overboost, which is exactly what you are seeing. Keep the boost at 10 psi until you can provide more fuel and you eliminate the fuel cut. Even then, I wouldn't go over 11 or 12 without an intercooler.
You guys are correct and giving good advice telling him to check the status of his engine and to make sure his car is equipped to properly run that level of boost, but there is something else that is rarely mentioned.
It sounds like, from what he typed, that he is talking about being at a cruising speed, flooring the throttle, encountering a boost spike and then shifting.
If that is the case, this is a critical problem and the reason for more FD engine failures than lack of fuel or anything else you can sey.
Under low load the engine, in completely stock configuration, can boost spike. People are never told that there is a way one should drive a turbocharged or supercharged vehicle.
Boost and wide throttle openings at low RPM absolutely will kill an engine.
If you are at 50mph in 5th gear and you want to pass someone you don't floor the throttle, you are not driving an automatic. You must downshift first BEFORE moving into boost. The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly.
It sounds like, from what he typed, that he is talking about being at a cruising speed, flooring the throttle, encountering a boost spike and then shifting.
If that is the case, this is a critical problem and the reason for more FD engine failures than lack of fuel or anything else you can sey.
Under low load the engine, in completely stock configuration, can boost spike. People are never told that there is a way one should drive a turbocharged or supercharged vehicle.
Boost and wide throttle openings at low RPM absolutely will kill an engine.
If you are at 50mph in 5th gear and you want to pass someone you don't floor the throttle, you are not driving an automatic. You must downshift first BEFORE moving into boost. The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly.
Originally posted by WVRx7
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly.
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly.
Originally posted by WVRx7
If you are at 50mph in 5th gear and you want to pass someone you don't floor the throttle, you are not driving an automatic. You must downshift first BEFORE moving into boost. The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
If you are at 50mph in 5th gear and you want to pass someone you don't floor the throttle, you are not driving an automatic. You must downshift first BEFORE moving into boost. The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
I'm not trying to critique you here, I just don't understand what you are saying.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, QC, Canada
Originally posted by WVRx7
[BIt sounds like, from what he typed, that he is talking about being at a cruising speed, flooring the throttle, encountering a boost spike and then shifting.
If that is the case, this is a critical problem and the reason for more FD engine failures than lack of fuel or anything else you can sey.
Under low load the engine, in completely stock configuration, can boost spike. People are never told that there is a way one should drive a turbocharged or supercharged vehicle.
Boost and wide throttle openings at low RPM absolutely will kill an engine.
If you are at 50mph in 5th gear and you want to pass someone you don't floor the throttle, you are not driving an automatic. You must downshift first BEFORE moving into boost. The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly. [/B]
[BIt sounds like, from what he typed, that he is talking about being at a cruising speed, flooring the throttle, encountering a boost spike and then shifting.
If that is the case, this is a critical problem and the reason for more FD engine failures than lack of fuel or anything else you can sey.
Under low load the engine, in completely stock configuration, can boost spike. People are never told that there is a way one should drive a turbocharged or supercharged vehicle.
Boost and wide throttle openings at low RPM absolutely will kill an engine.
If you are at 50mph in 5th gear and you want to pass someone you don't floor the throttle, you are not driving an automatic. You must downshift first BEFORE moving into boost. The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly. [/B]
My overboost problem happens at around 5000-6000 RPM when I push it hard WOT but like I said if I accelerate gradually there's no problem (10-8-10 PSI).
Originally posted by 911GT2
And it sounds to me like he is encountering spikes after the shift. I think he really meant "when I go WOT AFTER changing gears, the car is overboosting."
And it sounds to me like he is encountering spikes after the shift. I think he really meant "when I go WOT AFTER changing gears, the car is overboosting."
Originally posted by WVRx7
The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
The revs must be high enough to have the amount of exhaust velocity to counter the boost being created by the turbo(s).
Originally posted by WVRx7
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly.
If you are "boosting" below 3000rpm from throttle tip-in you are simply driving the car incorrectly.
I do agree that I've seen a lot of people blow their engines pulling from a low rpm but IMO, that is due to a poor fuel map rather than boosting at a low rpm.
Do you have basically a straight pipe? this can cause overboost somehow... I forgot...
w/ the stock ecu it is best to have some back pressure or the computer will try and change some stuff... again I've forgotten the details but thats the jist of it!

w/ the stock ecu it is best to have some back pressure or the computer will try and change some stuff... again I've forgotten the details but thats the jist of it!
Originally posted by wonder1and
Do you have basically a straight pipe? this can cause overboost somehow... I forgot...
w/ the stock ecu it is best to have some back pressure or the computer will try and change some stuff... again I've forgotten the details but thats the jist of it!
Do you have basically a straight pipe? this can cause overboost somehow... I forgot...

w/ the stock ecu it is best to have some back pressure or the computer will try and change some stuff... again I've forgotten the details but thats the jist of it!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,783
Likes: 642
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
I've witnessed many people driving an FD for the first time, and they try and drive it like a normal car. Well, it isn't, and you shouldn't
. I cruise from 3k to 4k rpms, and if I'm above 5k, I'm WOT. That's all there is to it. I've let a good bud drive my R1 and he went partial throttle all the way up to 7k. Not a good idea. That's the last time he ever did that. Now, first gear may be the exception to the rule, but my bud was doing this at highway speeds......
. I cruise from 3k to 4k rpms, and if I'm above 5k, I'm WOT. That's all there is to it. I've let a good bud drive my R1 and he went partial throttle all the way up to 7k. Not a good idea. That's the last time he ever did that. Now, first gear may be the exception to the rule, but my bud was doing this at highway speeds......
by the way, he has stock ECU, main cat still on and the wastegate was ported.
i beleive there might be more of a problem with the boost controler
i suggest you try to bypass it Carl, do you still have your boost pills?
i beleive there might be more of a problem with the boost controler
i suggest you try to bypass it Carl, do you still have your boost pills?





