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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 05:08 PM
  #1  
luizajeff's Avatar
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Still having problem

I've been having this problem with the car starting to run rough and die when it gets hot. On the open road no problem, all else looks good. I already replaced one of the water thermosensors but continues. I was doing some test runs the other day and pulled over to review some things, car idled smoothly. I then turned it off for a short bit (5-10mins) and then tried to start it again with no luck. Starter works, but no ignition. I then waited about a half an hour and tried again but this time it kicked over quicktly and I was on my way. I just don't know. It's heat realated I'm sure but possible a fuel issue? I don't smell anything (fuel). What else could heat soak and cause something like this? I'm getting temp info from intake air sensor too (seems to be working). ???
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 05:12 PM
  #2  
akiratdk's Avatar
The Laser Man
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From: GLENDALE, CA
how many miles do you have on the motor???? I heard that if the apex seals are time to go.... a common problem is hard hot starting..... cold start is fine but hot starts takes a while.... but my 2 cents.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #3  
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From: Bartlesville, OK.
I'd almost bet money that its ignition; probalby ignitor box. But also there were some posts about the '93 models (i think) having a coil wire short-out, too. Not sure if that would be temperature related, though.

Have you tied to duplicate and while it won't run check for spark? You can just carry a clip-on sytle timing light...
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #4  
mad_7tist's Avatar
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From: tampa
/\ i would agree it does sound like a ignition prob. maybe the leading coil is on the way out. and yea find out what is going on when it wont start if it is fuel or spark that you are missing.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 06:59 PM
  #5  
DMRH's Avatar
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From: Sydney, Australia
FD junkie is correct.

All FD coils from 92-02 are suspect for heat failure. I have personally changed a few set over the years.

Worked on a race team for a while & we went through 3 sets of coils for a single years racing including a set during the Bathurst-24hr. They are too vulnerable to heat soak in production cars & production racing due to there location.

Most streets cars I have seen fail are on 92 models with high mileage. They are getting to 13 years old now to are very prone to failure

REgards
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:35 PM
  #6  
luizajeff's Avatar
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From: Lynnwood, WA
The motor has only about 40k on it but how could I check for a bad coil? There are four aren't there? I also hear they are expensive to replace. Are they hard to replace? Hot starts or good and quick, at least when it's not so hot that this prob. of mine happens. Could this also be by some have relocated their coils?
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Thanx for the imput though everyone.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:41 PM
  #8  
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From: Raleigh, NC
I had to replace my leading ignition coil, actually replaced all to be on the safe side. When the coil was going out, the car started running really, really rough(combination of a bunch of things really, dying coils, low compression. etc.). Couldn't go WOT or it would just bog down, gas mileage went to hell as well. Not too hard to replace them at all, but yes they are a little pricey.

-Rob
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 09:29 PM
  #9  
EKTwin93's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Heat is definately an issue where the coil pack sits. One of my plug wires had corroded inside the coil pack and the tip broke off in it, so there was almost no connection to the plug. I just bought all the coil packs used from a guy that was parting out a car on this forum for $75. Look in the for sale section, but at least ask them how many miles they had on the motor they took the coil packs from and how it ran before.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 09:47 PM
  #10  
luizajeff's Avatar
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Good info. Does anyone have an idea on how I can test these coils to isolate the bad one (if one is bad)?
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 07:39 PM
  #11  
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From: Lynnwood, WA
OK, tested the coils today and ignition cables. My digital multimeter doesn't say anything about calibration but when using the 200ohm setting (00.0 readings) I get 00.5 reading when connecting the testing leads. Then, I checked the coils; Front T. gets 1.2, Rear T gets 1.1, and Leading gets 1.0 (as shown on the digital display). Do I subtract the 00.5 from these numbers or are all of my coils bad? Also, my leading #2 had corrosion on it when I pulled it, would that be a possible cause?
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:16 PM
  #12  
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From: Raleigh, NC
The leading coil on mine that was dead actually was in limits when I checked it, but there was definitely no spark coming from the plugs, new wires too, so it wasn't them. Car wouldn't start at this point, when the new coils went in it started up so i just had to deal with the other problems with the car.....

-Rob
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