Should I get a boost controller?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: San Diego
Should I get a boost controller?
I have an aftermarket downpipe and aftermarket intercooler. I have heard boost creep horror stories from just an intercooler/downpipe on a car that it otherwise stock.
Yay or nay on the boost controller? Do they have turbotimer/boost controller 2 in one combos? That would be nice...
Yay or nay on the boost controller? Do they have turbotimer/boost controller 2 in one combos? That would be nice...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 448
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From: San Diego
IMO, ever FD should have an electronic boost controller. However, just FYI, a boost controller won't help if you truly have boost creep. They do help boost spikes but creep is something else which a boost controller really can't do much about.
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Yeah, if you are terribly concerned with creeping than get a boost gauge (first) an ECU, and port the wastgate if need be. I would def replace the stock ECU... better to do it now than later.
Once you get a little more comfortable with everything you might decide to start modding it more (I was just going to do reliability mods, which turned into a cat-back, and an ignition amp, and a hi-flow cat, and... it goes on, bit by bit until you realize you just dropped $7,000 on the car over the winter and are turning the boost up to 16 psi while running free flow exhaust and so on..) I would get the PFC, it's reliability and predictability as much as anything else, and that way if, later on down the road, you DO decide to do more to the car than it's already done.
A turbo timer is crap, and a waste of money on these car's.
Once you get a little more comfortable with everything you might decide to start modding it more (I was just going to do reliability mods, which turned into a cat-back, and an ignition amp, and a hi-flow cat, and... it goes on, bit by bit until you realize you just dropped $7,000 on the car over the winter and are turning the boost up to 16 psi while running free flow exhaust and so on..) I would get the PFC, it's reliability and predictability as much as anything else, and that way if, later on down the road, you DO decide to do more to the car than it's already done.
A turbo timer is crap, and a waste of money on these car's.
A boost controller is needed only if your boost is moving to a level where it should not go. A pfc is certainly not needed for any car that stays at stock boost levels. It has been proven that the stock ECU provides plenty of fuel for ANY FD that stays at 10psi.
If your car is boosting over 10 psi, it is not probably not spiking, or creeping. It is likely just overboosting, which can easily be lowered with a proper boost controller.
Do not buy a turbo timer. They are useless toys for fools that don't know any better.
If your car is boosting over 10 psi, it is not probably not spiking, or creeping. It is likely just overboosting, which can easily be lowered with a proper boost controller.
Do not buy a turbo timer. They are useless toys for fools that don't know any better.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: San Diego
Will a downpipe with an SR motor sports intercooler cause my boost to rise? Some have told me it will. I was boosting 8-10-8-10 before these mods. I guess we will find out if it over boosts this week.
Why do many say turbo timers are useless in FD's? Doesn't the oil continue to circulate if the car is still running?
Why do many say turbo timers are useless in FD's? Doesn't the oil continue to circulate if the car is still running?
i have the same prob...i just got 3 inch exhaust piping with a resonator instead of the cat.... and inatakes.... the boost goes to about 15 psi at times...the booost needle oes to 15 in no time..like it was suppose to go to 15!
would a AVCR help me out here....ive had knocking a couple o times too...engines still strong though..just screwed up idle!
would a AVCR help me out here....ive had knocking a couple o times too...engines still strong though..just screwed up idle!
^sounds like a different problem. you removed the cat and now can't control boost at all with the stock system.
he has minor mods and doesn't seem to have a problem controlling boost.
the boost creep stories you heard is probably from people with more flow mods then what you have. i know i had my share of difficulty controlling boost (especially when cold like in the winter) when i didn't have a cat.
he has minor mods and doesn't seem to have a problem controlling boost.
the boost creep stories you heard is probably from people with more flow mods then what you have. i know i had my share of difficulty controlling boost (especially when cold like in the winter) when i didn't have a cat.
GxL/T2
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Easton (Palmer Twp) Pa
Could you please elaborate more on the Turbo Timer being useless? From what i understand, after a long drive or driving hard the turbo need a cool down period which is normally 5-10 min. Or am i wrong? can you elaborate. thanks
A couple of minutes at idle is usually enough to cool the turbos. The Turbo Timer is for running boosted and then shutting of the engine. This causes the oil to coke in the turbo (essentially turn into powder) and next time you start up your car you have lubrication. To say a Turbo Timer is useless is not necessarily a correct statement. So say that you don't need a turbo timer if you take care of your car correctly and don't shut it off immediately after a hard pull, would be a better explanation.
GxL/T2
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 430
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From: Easton (Palmer Twp) Pa
A couple of minutes at idle is usually enough to cool the turbos. The Turbo Timer is for running boosted and then shutting of the engine. This causes the oil to coke in the turbo (essentially turn into powder) and next time you start up your car you have lubrication. To say a Turbo Timer is useless is not necessarily a correct statement. So say that you don't need a turbo timer if you take care of your car correctly and don't shut it off immediately after a hard pull, would be a better explanation.
^turbo timer is not necessary on water cooled turbos. on an fd it just makes the car hotter idling it w/o movement which is worse...
kento and rynberg had some good comments about that if you want to search for it. or just go the FAQ thread and look it up.
kento and rynberg had some good comments about that if you want to search for it. or just go the FAQ thread and look it up.
Most single turbo setups are oil cooled so i guess it depends on what you are running. If your cooling system is working properly, your water temperature should stay at 85 degrees at idle and highway speeds. If your car is overheating at idle, you have a whole different st of problems.
Other advantages of the turbo timer:
0-60 times
Lap times
Exact RPM readings
Wideband O2 sensor readings
Digital speed readings
Of course, this is assuming that you have a model, such as the HKS, that can monitor these.
Useless toys for fools? I beg to defer with you.
Other advantages of the turbo timer:
0-60 times
Lap times
Exact RPM readings
Wideband O2 sensor readings
Digital speed readings
Of course, this is assuming that you have a model, such as the HKS, that can monitor these.
Useless toys for fools? I beg to defer with you.
Even though I'm running stock boost, I installed a manual boost controller and bypassed the PGA and WGA solenoids. With it, my boost pattern is solid and the transition is super smooth, and FWIW you can dial the boost back to 7psi (based on the spring rate of the wastegate actuator) if you want/need to. Boost levels have been rock solid, summer or winter, and I couldn't be happier with this setup.
I also run a turbo timer. There, I said it. Before anyone regurgitates any tired old internet feces about how they don't help at all... consider that the exhaust gasses entering the turbine housing are 1000 degrees or hotter under boost. A lot of that heat energy is stored in the cast iron housing of the turbo, long after you've stopped boosting. Consider that the oil temperature at the time you shut off the car is 200 degrees or cooler. Yes, the oil will heat up as the car is sitting there idling, but at the same time it will be transporting heat away from the turbo as will the flow of coolant. Once you shut the engine off, all circulation of oil and coolant stops. I'd rather heat up the coolant and oil and disperse the turbo's accumulated heat throughout the entire system than let it hemorrhage in one place. At least, that's my take on turbo timers. If anyone has factual evidence to the contratry (not forum hearsay) I'd love to hear it.
I also run a turbo timer. There, I said it. Before anyone regurgitates any tired old internet feces about how they don't help at all... consider that the exhaust gasses entering the turbine housing are 1000 degrees or hotter under boost. A lot of that heat energy is stored in the cast iron housing of the turbo, long after you've stopped boosting. Consider that the oil temperature at the time you shut off the car is 200 degrees or cooler. Yes, the oil will heat up as the car is sitting there idling, but at the same time it will be transporting heat away from the turbo as will the flow of coolant. Once you shut the engine off, all circulation of oil and coolant stops. I'd rather heat up the coolant and oil and disperse the turbo's accumulated heat throughout the entire system than let it hemorrhage in one place. At least, that's my take on turbo timers. If anyone has factual evidence to the contratry (not forum hearsay) I'd love to hear it.
Thank you ArmitageGVR4. I guess some people prefer to shut their cars off with manifolds glowing red hot. I usually don't even use my timer unless I know that I have pulled hard recently or for one of the functions mentioned above. Some people get too dogmatic on what they know to be true. Don't even start me on the oil debate that has been going on for 20 years now.
Racecar - Formula 2000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,027
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From: Bath, OH
Thank you ArmitageGVR4. I guess some people prefer to shut their cars off with manifolds glowing red hot. I usually don't even use my timer unless I know that I have pulled hard recently or for one of the functions mentioned above. Some people get too dogmatic on what they know to be true. Don't even start me on the oil debate that has been going on for 20 years now.
If I'm at a track day, I just pop the hood, run it w/o load for a minute or so, and then shut it off.
Dave
Last edited by DaveW; Mar 3, 2008 at 02:31 PM.
I agree that the basic function of the turbo timer can be performed manually or behaviorally. It is, however, nice to come off a track session, autox, or even spirited street driving and not have to think or worry about it. My turbo timer has a built in peak/hold boost gauge with overboost alarm (which is nice for tuning), lap timer, etc. and bases the shutdown timer on the amount of boost it's seen prior to shutting the car off which is also nice. For $50-100, it's just a little assurance along with some nice features that certainly doesn't merit the scorn some people have for them.
Racecar - Formula 2000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,027
Likes: 366
From: Bath, OH
I agree that the basic function of the turbo timer can be performed manually or behaviorally. It is, however, nice to come off a track session, autox, or even spirited street driving and not have to think or worry about it. My turbo timer has a built in peak/hold boost gauge with overboost alarm (which is nice for tuning), lap timer, etc. and bases the shutdown timer on the amount of boost it's seen prior to shutting the car off which is also nice. For $50-100, it's just a little assurance along with some nice features that certainly doesn't merit the scorn some people have for them.
Hey, that's why I said everyone can have their own way of doing this (cooling the turbos).BTW, I have ball/spring "Home depot" boost controllers, and my results are like yours - rock-solid boost control.
Ball/spring MBC link: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=10
Last edited by DaveW; Mar 3, 2008 at 02:49 PM.
