Is it safe to remove the vacuum check valves?
 

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...9_146_full.jpg

While removing and reinstalling the intake manifold-to remove the coil pack--- I realized do to the age of some the parts on the car I expected to break a few things do to being extremely fragile. Anyhow I busted a couple of check valves (L of the picture) and also the stupid plugs came off of the wires on the solenoid valve (wastegate controller) and solenoid valve (turbo precontroller).

So the question I have are:

Is it safe to just replace the check valves with just straigt vacuum pipe?

And is it safe to solder the wires in place of the plugs?, which of course I already did..

I know it will look jimmy rigged but I'm only concerned with getting the car running for now...http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...9_147_full.jpg

i wouldnt get rid of the check valves

I'd cap the nipples.
If you notice, there are certain areas where boost is not supposed to reach which is why the one way valves are there. They prevent vacuum and boost from getting to where they are not supposed to be at.

Check valves ensure that the vacuum is getting to solenoids and actuators in the proper way. If you remove them, your car will not run properly. They route the vaccum in a precise way.

Garrett

Remove them. Mazda put them on the car to wow you with their appearance. They're like stickers, they do shit for power.

if by safe, you mean stupid.. Then its very safe to remove them!

:slap:

Okay I'll take your guys word for not needing the check valves, If and when I start the car I will try it like that, straight vacuum hose from point a to point b.

Any idea on the solenoid valve (wastegate controller) and solenoid valve (turbo precontroller) plugs, damn things just fell of in my hand they were so old. No wire left on the plugs so I had to cann them. I then soldered some gauge wire in each green device with one wire from each metal tip, and was going to connect them straight to the wire, but I'm concerned because they are a major component that I might f... something up. But just for my own info. would it work????

I might check with mazda and see if they have those plugs though.......

:withstupi

Ofcourse you need that check valves. Man... mazda engineers put that stuff in there with purpose. At least inform yourself what those valves do before you consider running your car under boost.

Ummm, what?!
 

I'm sorry, but are you reading the same replies that I am? I think most everybody agreed that you need the check valves! Do you understand what they do?

Go to a NAPA store for replacements, or get them online from McMaster-Carr.

You could probably fab your own connectors with some crimp on connectors. Use some heat shrink to insulate the wires from each other.

Probably your best idea. Fix the problem correctly and it will give you less headaches in the long run.

-b

posts like this make my head hurt....

REPLACE THE CHECK VALVES!!! Seriously, replace them all to prevent having to do this again. They aren't that expensive and will save you many many many headaches.

Check out this thread; https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=242306

I agree. Makes me feel very lucky I was able to find a near-stock car that hadn't been fucked with by an ignorant owner....

they're making fun of you jackass, not agreeing with you

there, someone said it

Your secondary boost will not work properly without the check valves sorry but you must use them. I of course have some for sale :)

if it aint broke dont fix it

It is broke and he's trying to fix it.



lopedl,

The check valve that runs to the pressure chamber is part of the control for the secondary boost. If you don't use a check valve for it and just run a straight vacuum line, most likely you won't have any secondary boost.

If you need to do something until you can get a replacement, cap it off. It will slow down your secondary transition a lot but it will be better then running straight vacuum line.

If you are set with going with the stock sequential system, do like Mahjik said and cap it till you can get replacements.

Or go non-seq and trash it all and cut off the wiring branch that controls the soleniods. Then you just have to bother with running resistors if you are using the stock ECU.