That's good to hear :D Should have them within a week. Will let you know when I receive them. Thanks again, appreciate your help. Paolo

Just received the block off plates :D

Will start on the RX7 tomorrow..

So, today I was doing some more work on the RX7. Putting everything back together etc. When I was putting the oil filler neck back, I dropped a bolt down the hole. Probably because I was working quick to get the car back together and get it on the road.. Anyways, I did some research and have tried for over 5 hours with the magnet trick, coathanger trick etc but nothing has seemed to work. I've drained the oil, filled it again, drained it, jacked the car up from side to side etc but I can't find the bolt or get it out.

My question is. I've knocked on the empty sump and can't hear the bolt. So I'm thinking it's on one of the sump plates that sits flush with the top of the sump. Which therefore requires the sump to be removed in order to get the bolt out. Can this be done without removing the subframe?

Lowering the subframe makes the job a lot easier.

Can the subframe be lowered slightly or does it have to be completely removed? How long should a job like this take? Thanks for your help, highly appreciate it

It can be lowered. Time depends on your mechanical capabilities and the tools you have available.

Thankyou very much for your help. I will give it a go tomorrow after work..

I managed to remove the bolt via the oil filler with a special grab tool and camera :D

One quick question, does the JDM RX7's have an AWS? From comparing pictures, my UIM has no accelerated warmup system modules on it.. I'm a bit confused.

It does not have AWS or EGR

Thanks for your input. Just wanted to clarify that as I seemed a bit lost when I was looking at my UIM today..

Very soon the car will be on the road. Along with a few other goodies :D Custom water to air intercooler, Greddy underdriven pulley set and a Greddy electronic boost controller :D

Ok, so I've almost finished the Non sequential conversion. (Just have to bolt the turbos back together then back on the car)
I was going over the guide to make sure I covered everything. In this guide: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ov_nonseq.html
Step 21: Remove throttle body coolant hose. Does this hole need to be blocked off once the hose is removed? Or does it remain open.. Thanks

Also, I removed an air pump as I don't think it's required. It's the big pump that is on the left of the water pump when standing at the front of the car. I'm pretty sure it may be part of the ACV. Does this get removed? Therefore the requirement of a shorter fan belt etc.

If you remove the air pump you can remove the hard lines coming from the ACV and block them off, remove/block off ACV, remove solenoids and vac hoses (if you're not using a stock ECU) Be aware removing the air pump will kill your stock cat pretty fast, but to my knowledge don't cause problems with high flow cats.

You also might want to look into getting an idler pulley (tweakit or pineapple). Without the idler pulley/air pump you will have belt slippage on your water pump pulley.

Good luck.

The air pump, hard lines, ACV, solenoids, vac hoses etc have already been removed and blocked off as I'm doing the most simplified non sequential conversion. Also, I plan on getting a custom exhaust. No cats, mufflers, resonators etc. Straight through exhaust :D
Also, the other day I bought a Greddy pulley set that came with new pulleys for the water pump etc and belts for this conversion. Got them in the mail today. So I won't have to worry about belt slippage now :D

that looks confusing lol.