RX7 Gen3 - So many vacuum hoses! Can I remove any?
 

Hi there,

Last week I purchased a 1993 Mazda RX7 13B-REW Twin Turbo.
Today I was replacing some of the rubber vacuum hoses with silicone hoses as they were hard and cracked due to their age and extensive heat in the engine bay.
When I was removing the standard rubber hose from the "Switching Solenoid Valve" I accidently snapped the top nipple off.
(Can be seen in this vacuum diagram, solenoid C: http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...umDiagram1.jpg )

I did some research and it seems the solenoid rack is known as a rats nest. What solenoids, valves, hoses etc can be safely removed that are not required? Is this solenoid required?

Thankyou very much in advance, Paolo

search simplified sequential

Thanks.. I think I'm going to go with this:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...9&d=1208733398

Keep in mind that removes the emissions components as well. I don't know if you have emissions testing in your area, but just an FYI.

Luckily I don't have emissions testing in my area..
If I do the non sequential conversion, what else should I take into consideration?
Do I have to buy anything to do it? I've got already the vacuum hoses, manual boost controller etc. But do I need any extra hardware, such as block off plates etc?

Thanks alot guys, appreciate all the help!

Yes, if you want to do it right:

http://www.2751engineering.com/cart/....php?groupid=7

If you are staying with the stock ECU, you'll need resistors (330 ohm 1/2 watt) for the stock solenoids replacement if you plan to remove them.

Is this $75 kit: http://www.2751engineering.com/cart/...p?productid=82

The same as this $45 kit: http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/F...ff_plates.html

I'm running a RE Amemiya ECU at the moment. However, I'm buying an Apexi Power FC in the next month (I won't be driving this car for the next 6 months) Does than mean I wouldn't require the resistors?

Also, is there any welding required? And how many flapper doors need to be removed?

Sorry for all the noob questions.. I appreciate all your advice and help!

with a Power FC you won't need resistors. Familiarize yourself with "poor man's" versus "rich man's" non sequential

I just did some research on the rich mans conversion, which involves welding, polishing etc.. Where as the poor mans is basically removing and blocking off with plates therefore more on the dodgy side of things however still works from what I've read..

I have decided that I will be buying this kit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rx7-Rx-7-...item19c6472640

And giving it my best shot at doing the conversion. I will post photos when it's all done in a few weeks..

Thanks guys for your help, please advise me if I've missed anything or require anything else when doing this conversion..

In this diagram:
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...9&d=1208733398

What does it say next to the following:
Actuator charge control
Actuator turbo control
Actuator turbo precontrol

Can't understand the very small blurry writing..

Thanks again!

next to
turbo control actuator i believe it says
"remove turbo control actuator and flapper door in manifold, weld up this hole?"

Actuator turbo precontrol - "remove prespool control actuator, and weld the door open for smoother flow"

Actuator charge contro - "remove flapper door and actuator, drill/tap the hole and plug with a bolt?"

thats what i made out

Thanks for that, now it makes alot more sense..

I found this page which seems to have alot of information in regards to the non sequential conversion:
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topi...non-sequntial/

From what I understand so far:
3X Actuators need to be removed
3X Flapper doors need to be removed (Holes welded/blocked)
The whole solenoid rack needs to be removed
Most vacuum hoses removed

Run vacuum hoses from:
UIM nipple to BOV
UIM nipple to CRV
UIM nipple to Boost Gauge
FPR to LIM nipple under the fuel rail facing the firewall
T-Piece the 2 oil vacuum lines and connect them to the primary turbo inlet pipe
Y-Pipe nipple facing downwards to LIM nipple
Manual boost controller: Actuator/Wastegate Control to primary turbo inlet pipe
Connect oil filler nipple to oil catch can
Install all the block off plates (Not exactly sure where they all go but I shall figure it out)
Connect 330ohm 1/2watt resistors to all solenoid plugs

Anything I've missed?

Does anyone have photos of where all the block off plates go? I can't figure it out..

Thankyou very much.. Appreciate your help.

For a full write up on emissions removal and non sequential mod you should check out http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ov_nonseq.html I'm doing the non sequential thing right now, using the same guide.

Thankyou so much! I've been looking for a write up with pictures and couldn't find one anywhere. This will be a great help! Just waiting for the block off plates then I will get started. Can't wait.

After researching, I believe the Turbo Control Actuator and Charge Control Actuator get removed, correct? Where does it show that in this write up?
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ov_nonseq.html

I can see where the flapper door in the exhaust manifold gets removed as well as the turbo precontrol actuator but can't find the other 2.

Thanks again guys for all your help.

You remove the other 2 when you take the turbos apart. One is in front of the turbos, it looks the same as the wastegate actuator, the other is the large actuator which is hanging below the turbos. Both are very easy to remove, just unhook the c clips and remove the 2 bolts on each one.

So once I've removed both actuators by unbolting them and removing the c-clips. Are there any internal parts left over that need to be removed from those 2 actuators? Flapper doors etc..

Thanks alot for your help, appreciate it alot!

Just follow step 27 and further and you'll get them all, it really isn't that hard once you get the turbos and manifold off. You have to remove the flapper in the manifold, the flapper inside the turbo housing(step 38), and the valve in the rear turbo y pipe section(step 43/44). The only actuator that isn't in the guide is the large one hanging below the turbos, I believe it is attached to one of the heat shields, this actuator moves the flapper door in the exhaust manifold. The pre control actuator is the bottom one of the two attached to the twins and the CRV is explained in steps 43 and 44.

Trust me once you start pulling stuff apart it will al become clear :) just make sure you go slow and remember where everything goes ;)

Just a very quick question, when installing the block off plates is it best to use a gasket glue to make sure the plate seals? Or can I just thoroughly clean both surfaces and it will seal properly?

Still waiting for the block off plates from Banzai..

Use a thin layer of RTV. What date did you order them?

Hi there, thanks for your response. I have some Wurth RTV silicone which I will use.

I ordered the block off plate kit on the 16th of June and paid for it on the 16th of June via PayPal. I also paid for Express shipping. So it's only been 5 complete working days not including the day it was ordered. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow before the weekend if not might be next week..

They were shipped the same day via Internation Express and you were provided a tracking number. I see they arrived at Australian customs.

That's good to hear :D Should have them within a week. Will let you know when I receive them. Thanks again, appreciate your help. Paolo

Just received the block off plates :D

Will start on the RX7 tomorrow..

So, today I was doing some more work on the RX7. Putting everything back together etc. When I was putting the oil filler neck back, I dropped a bolt down the hole. Probably because I was working quick to get the car back together and get it on the road.. Anyways, I did some research and have tried for over 5 hours with the magnet trick, coathanger trick etc but nothing has seemed to work. I've drained the oil, filled it again, drained it, jacked the car up from side to side etc but I can't find the bolt or get it out.

My question is. I've knocked on the empty sump and can't hear the bolt. So I'm thinking it's on one of the sump plates that sits flush with the top of the sump. Which therefore requires the sump to be removed in order to get the bolt out. Can this be done without removing the subframe?

Lowering the subframe makes the job a lot easier.

Can the subframe be lowered slightly or does it have to be completely removed? How long should a job like this take? Thanks for your help, highly appreciate it

It can be lowered. Time depends on your mechanical capabilities and the tools you have available.

Thankyou very much for your help. I will give it a go tomorrow after work..

I managed to remove the bolt via the oil filler with a special grab tool and camera :D

One quick question, does the JDM RX7's have an AWS? From comparing pictures, my UIM has no accelerated warmup system modules on it.. I'm a bit confused.

It does not have AWS or EGR

Thanks for your input. Just wanted to clarify that as I seemed a bit lost when I was looking at my UIM today..

Very soon the car will be on the road. Along with a few other goodies :D Custom water to air intercooler, Greddy underdriven pulley set and a Greddy electronic boost controller :D

Ok, so I've almost finished the Non sequential conversion. (Just have to bolt the turbos back together then back on the car)
I was going over the guide to make sure I covered everything. In this guide: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ov_nonseq.html
Step 21: Remove throttle body coolant hose. Does this hole need to be blocked off once the hose is removed? Or does it remain open.. Thanks

Also, I removed an air pump as I don't think it's required. It's the big pump that is on the left of the water pump when standing at the front of the car. I'm pretty sure it may be part of the ACV. Does this get removed? Therefore the requirement of a shorter fan belt etc.

If you remove the air pump you can remove the hard lines coming from the ACV and block them off, remove/block off ACV, remove solenoids and vac hoses (if you're not using a stock ECU) Be aware removing the air pump will kill your stock cat pretty fast, but to my knowledge don't cause problems with high flow cats.

You also might want to look into getting an idler pulley (tweakit or pineapple). Without the idler pulley/air pump you will have belt slippage on your water pump pulley.

Good luck.

The air pump, hard lines, ACV, solenoids, vac hoses etc have already been removed and blocked off as I'm doing the most simplified non sequential conversion. Also, I plan on getting a custom exhaust. No cats, mufflers, resonators etc. Straight through exhaust :D
Also, the other day I bought a Greddy pulley set that came with new pulleys for the water pump etc and belts for this conversion. Got them in the mail today. So I won't have to worry about belt slippage now :D

that looks confusing lol.