is it just me, or is every guy on this forum being overly nice just because we finally have a "decent" looking girl here.
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pathetic. shes like 17. all these pedo-asses need to get out of the house and get girlfriends. i know another girl with an FD and she rarely goes on these boards because she thinks everyone is creepy or an asshole. haha
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Originally Posted by dubulup
(Post 7568533)
tighten the v-band clamps first then the two bolt exhaust flanges to fix your exhaust leak...I assume its from the turbo if it sounds that bad
Congrats on getting it running, I know the feeling! looks great. Add oil coolers to you list ;) you can eliminate that AST since your radiator is verticle and you have a plug right there on top to let the air out. Should give some room to mount a intake just get creative with the sheilding and ducting for fresh air. meh. this set up fking pisses me off so much. and im going to be even more pissed once all the clamps are on and my midpipe doesnt line up cause i just got the damn thing cut and welded so the bolts would line up with the downpipe. oil coolers on list ;) |
3" or 4" exhaust? Any dyno #'s. G
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hang the DP loosely from the turbo v-band clamp, detattched from the MP and WG. Align the DP and WG (loosely) then adjust WG position if needed...fit outlet, tighten the turbo clamp first, then the WG inlet, then outlet.
With so many v-bands and one way to fit its not always straight forward. Your MP needs to be the last thing to fit; might have to reweld?? |
Originally Posted by DMoneyRX-7
(Post 7568696)
is it just me, or is every guy on this forum being overly nice just because we finally have a "decent" looking girl here.
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Originally Posted by dubulup
(Post 7572622)
hang the DP loosely from the turbo v-band clamp, detattched from the MP and WG. Align the DP and WG (loosely) then adjust WG position if needed...fit outlet, tighten the turbo clamp first, then the WG inlet, then outlet.
With so many v-bands and one way to fit its not always straight forward. Your MP needs to be the last thing to fit; might have to reweld?? --but i drove it for the first time last night just to get it out of the shop to get inspection. its so hard to stay in low rpms, but from the bits i heard that turbo spools nicely |
Originally Posted by G's 3rd Gen
(Post 7572476)
3" or 4" exhaust? Any dyno #'s. G
no numbers yet, putting some miles on the new motor, and fixing a few things, then getting some numbers. |
nice. updated pics of the entire car please.
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Nice build-up.
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5 Attachment(s)
Attachment 719858
brother did the glove box for me and lazy eyes. Attachment 719859 im sure many of yall hate on the lazy eyes, but they look good at night, not so much during the day. rat nest. Attachment 719860 Attachment 719861 and the best part. Attachment 719862 only thing that blows is i still have an exhaust leak, i think its to the block, and i talked to alex at gotham and he said he ran into the same thing and the problem was that the manifold warped. hopefully thats not my case. ill have a photoshoot of the fd soon though |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cz7lxPNrfDs
after 11 months of not driving the fd with a 3stage clutch, i was completely use to my worn out fc clutch and stalled out the first drive out. haha. and almost ran over my dad cause i couldnt see or hear him haha classic. |
Originally Posted by pure_rotary
(Post 7575966)
3in.
no numbers yet, putting some miles on the new motor, and fixing a few things, then getting some numbers. |
Who is your daddy, and what does he do?
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Originally Posted by Barban
(Post 7585507)
Who is your daddy, and what does he do?
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You going to add some ducting to the intercooler/radiator? Seems like it'll get hot during summer months with all the air going around them.
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My 500R had an exhaust leak on the turbine housing to manifold flange, which was warped.
I had to remove the turbo from the manifold, remove the turbine housing from the CHRA, take the turbine housing to a machine shopped to be planed flat, then reassemble the turbo (this took many hours with the 1.0 hot side a/r). It was like putting a jigsaw puzzle together, with one hand, blind and drunk. Not fun. |
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 7586156)
My 500R had an exhaust leak on the turbine housing to manifold flange, which was warped.
I had to remove the turbo from the manifold, remove the turbine housing from the CHRA, take the turbine housing to a machine shopped to be planed flat, then reassemble the turbo (this took many hours with the 1.0 hot side a/r). It was like putting a jigsaw puzzle together, with one hand, blind and drunk. Not fun. |
Well, in my case I think Garrett was at fault, not A-spec. Sean was very helpful, and in the end I've been very happy with my kit :icon_tup:
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 7586253)
Well, in my case I think Garrett was at fault, not A-spec. Sean was very helpful, and in the end I've been very happy with my kit :icon_tup:
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Originally Posted by pure_rotary
(Post 7585805)
he runs a car audio shop. why?
I'm hopen to upgrade sometime soon myself. I don't think I'd go with the 500R like you did though; although it is very tempting. Call me a puss but I only want 350-400 hp and other, cheaper kits, will get me that. Nice FD :icon_tup: |
Is the hotside of the 500r the same as with the 35r (turbine wheel size)? If so, 1.0a/r for the housing seems undersized for that compressor's boost potential.
Rich, Do you have any logged data on your setup? I would be fairly interested to see how that turbo performs/compares in that setup. I have SIGNIFICANTLY less compressor than the 500r and a much bigger exhaust side. I would be very interested to see how something like mine compares to that larger turbo (compressor). Pure_Rotary, In Texas you are going to NEED to add some additional ducting to that cooling setup to maintain adequate oil/coolant temps. Especially with keeping the a/c. I have a totally custom setup, but when I added the top panel to my radiator, my coolant temp dropped about 6 degrees C...just with the top panel! Having a front mount and a/c I would duct that radiator sot that it is completely sealed. FWIW...A-Spec's first attempt at my manifold didn't fit right either, but they remedied the problem (I have since went to a Turblown manifold and setup). Custom setups take a TON of time and patience. If the FD has taught me anything it is patience and restraint. Best of luck moving forward! |
Originally Posted by pure_rotary
(Post 7586242)
its just getting ridiculous. i already had to get my midpipe welded differently so the downpipe would line up. and now paying someone at a machine shop. i didnt pay for an expensive kit so i could get it customized/fixed.
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Originally Posted by Wild7
(Post 7586531)
I think hes referring to your age and how much disposable cash you seem to have lying around... The 2 don't mesh. Don't yell at me though i didn't say it :smoker:
I'm hopen to upgrade sometime soon myself. I don't think I'd go with the 500R like you did though; although it is very tempting. Call me a puss but I only want 350-400 hp and other, cheaper kits, will get me that. Nice FD :icon_tup: thanks :) best of luck with yours |
Originally Posted by willub and company
(Post 7586650)
Isn't a V-band downpipe? what did you have to modify on the midpipe?
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