Ok here's the background of what happened. A few months ago I installed an RP remapped ecu tuned for 14.7psi, intake, exhaust, and i/c. More recently I fitted a smic and was running around with that on for about a week. One day, I was coming home from school and notice a brand new elise so I was checking it out, I looked back and saw that my tach was at zero! I started it and it started back up fine, but it would die if left in neutral so I had to keep her in gear the rest of the way home. Along the way, I noticed an unusual amount of backfiring and popping so I figured it was running rich. I parked it at home, let it sit for about 20min and came back to it. It started fine and even idled like normal again. It seemed normal except for a couple occasions for the next week or so. Since then I went ahead and did a v-mount and installed a walbro 255. Once I got it running w/ the v-mount and pump, it seemed like normal at first, but after a few small runs, it seemed like the car got richer and richer until it would nearly die like before. I came home and adjusted the idle higher and it idled but was very rough. The boost gauge shows the vaccuum bouncy at about 15 in. I took the plugs out and they were pretty much garbage. I replaced them and that seemed to help a bit. I was thinking maybe chipped seal, but why would it make it run that rich? It blew a hole in my organic material turbo to downpipe gasket from all the backfires. Now when I start it, it will seriously burn your eyes from the fumes coming out that exhaust leak. I adjusted the tps and it was a little off but not too bad. I also thought of leaky injectors but usually that would make it flood. However, it starts up fine every time... I was also thinking the walbro *might* be overrunning the stock fpr but i doubt it would make it that rich. Also it was running rich before I installed the walbro... I'm running out of ideas.. I tried to pull some codes off the stock ecu (btw, it runs the same w/ stock ecu installed) and I can't pull any! The light is on, I know at least from the egr, but I can't tell if anything else is throwing a code.

Any insight would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

Also, I used a regular compression tester and seemed to be getting 90's all around... My friend has a mazda digital one tho, so I wanna use that just to make sure.

 

bump.

 

are you sure all plugs are firing?

 

not positive. I'll go check to make sure tho.

 

Well I checked the fuel pressure and it was at 43psi. That seems a little high to me but I don't think it would make enough of a difference to make my car idle so crappy. I am almost leaning towards a chipped seal making it run crappy mixed with the hightened pressure from the walbro...

 

Thanks for all the help guys, but I guess I must have originally checked the compression wrong. Upon a second test, I found that the rear rotor is 45-45-90. Maybe two chipped seals?

 

Damn that sucks! So what are you going to do, then?

 

Rebuild it, and do some mad porting on it. Either huge street port of 1/2 bridge(kinda wanna try something new...) I think most of the internals are still gonna be good and its a REMAN so the housings and rotors should have around 30k on them only. Hopefully that'll cut cost a bit on the build. If I wasn't doing the porting, I'd probably just try to crank it out in a weekend, but I'm gonna take my time porting it. I kinda wanted to try out the new Rotary Aviation seals out anyways