Beside a boost guage, egt gauge, turbo timer, down pipe, silicon hoses, radiator, y pipe, AST Bypass kit, which would help reliability more?

An exhaust or high flow cat?

Thanks
Jeff

 

If you do get downpipe, you will want an aftermarket exhaust to relieve all the backpressure you will be creating with the dp.

 

get the exhaust before the high flo cat, IMO it is much more important in your stage of mods.

 

I'm still going to purchase an RX7...But bloody hell is this an enthusiasts car or what!

 

Go with a better exhaust first. Also, thicker motor oil, if you don't mind harder starts, and possibly a little two-stroke premix in your gas tank during every refuel.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

Like how thick on the oil? I'm in Seattle, so the temps are pretty moderate.

 

Yes, you really have to love the car because sometimes there are just times when it can drive you crazy with problems.

I know for me, sometimes I don't know whether to drive around with the stereo on or off to see if I hear anything that sounds out of the oridinary... But it seems I always hear a new noise that I never heard before and never hear again....

To the original poster, I wouldn't consider a Hi-Flo Cat or a Midpipe a "reliability" mod unless your stock cat is clogged. It's more of a performance mod. The downpipe is considered a reliability mod to help relieve back pressure and help reduce the under-hood temps.

Personally, I don't think Turbo Timers are worth the money. People debate about it, but as long as you just don't shut the car down immediately after some hard running, you don't really need them. I would put the money towards a boost controller instead.

 

Thanks.

Yeah, I've considered the same thing, in the car it was on last it was running a synthetic so I thought even more that its not as important, but I have the defi HUD boost gauge which comes with it, so what are you going to do.

 

Without upgrading the ECU and possibly other mods, a boost controller is useless. You cant really boost higher than stock levels (10lbs of boost) on even a semi modded FD. Unless u are boost spiking, then i dont see a reason to get a boost controller right away.

 

Without upgrading the ECU and possibly other mods, a boost controller is useless. You cant really boost higher than stock levels (10lbs of boost) on even a semi modded FD. Unless u are boost spiking, then i dont see a reason to get a boost controller right away.

PS: Whats 2 stroke premix?

 

I'm looking at getting an AEM EMS on that group buy as well, just forgot to put that down.

 

* me scratched his head*
The DP relieves ALOT of back pressure created by the pre-cat, as well as heat. The chief source of back pressure would now become the main cat and partially the muffler.

 

Sorry, I meant to say "2-stroke OIL" added to your gas tank at each refuel. Premix aids in lubricating the apex seals and rotors during combustion. There should be more threads on the forum detailing the pros and cons with this process. I use it, but only in minute amounts, no more than 4oz. per tank of fuel.

 

Granted, every car responds differently to mods, but I've read messages of people spiking over 10 PSI with just a downpipe. I'm sure most of it has to do with climate and colder air running through the car, this guy's location says Seattle. If that's true, I'm sure he sees his fair share of cool days so that should always be a concern.

Smilez, I would skip the Turbo Timer if you haven't already purchased it, and use the money for a boost controller. As for the aftermarket ECU, unless you plan on running larger injectors or going single turbo you can just use a Pettit or M2 reprogrammed ECU.

 

I like the idea of the Ecu because it has knock control in it. Do you think thats unneccary with just bolt ons and a street ported b13 and maybe the higher flow stock turbos?

 

No, it is very neccessary. You will need an upgraded ECU to avoid running lean. However, with a street-ported 13B and a bunch of mods, the M2 ECU may not be able to compensate for the difference in vacuum and you will get a very lumpy idle. It happened to me after I had my new engine installed, and lead to me getting a PowerFC.

 

I don't know about M2, but I've seen Pettit use their ECU's on street ported engines.

The main problem you'll run into with Pettit ECU's is using larger injectors. Supposedly anything over 1100 on secondaries is not a good thing for their ECU's.

 

holy ****, when you,re at a point where you have to replace the ECU it's that you're not looking only at reliability mods...

I'm having the big-*** intercooler dropped in, with all the other mods I already had downpipe gauges all that crap so of course I'm dropping in a PFC too... but I now call it performance mods. my $0.02

 

Yeah... the only reason I'm doing it now is to get the gb price and because I want the knock control feature, it saved my engine a couple of times on my last project.

 

I didnt see it on youre list but get a temp guage, fans turn on low at 230F I think this is a major factor in o-ring failer down the road.Install the Miatia 207F switch or a after market temp controller to turn fans on under 210F.