reliability build
 

okay guys so from my last thread to here, i have one of two cars im going to pick up a stock 93 tt with some minor mods,

1.upgraded pullies, M2 pwr radiator, and M2 upgraded ecu (stage 2, boosts at 12psi instead of factory 10), upgraded walbro fuel pump, silicone radiator hosing, M2 downpipe, k&n filter (also have a hks super mega flow intake system if you want), greddy turbo timer, autometer boost gauge, '99 spec oem front lip
engine strut bar, M2 ast box eliminator kit, hks blow off valve. now this is my first option

2.or my second option is a 93 with as i can tell only a single turbo set up with maybe fuel system upgrade.

i doubt very highly either of these have been professionally tuned, so my question is where does this board think i should go with the build of either of the two cars.

so which in your opinion would be the best to pick up, and if so what basic mods fore reliability first and performance second should be performed.


thanks guys i appreciate the non flamage (much appreciation)

Pick the cleanest car with the lowest miles. Mods are easy to remove and install.

Forget about reliability - either engine can go when you least expect it.

And if reliability is important to you, why are you buying an FD?

to be honest ive really always loved their curves, its kinda been my dream car. considering ive owned an sold my other dream car (65 mustang) im ready to move on to this one. i care about reliability because i wanna have the best chance at having a performing fd with the thought that i took the extra time and money to take into account the fact that these cars themselves arent as relaible as id like.

if that helps . . .

I hope you have passion, cause without it (and a daily driver)
this is'nt the car for you.

I hope you find what your looking for.
(search)

My advice is to buy the cleanest lowest miles car you can afford and put $5k in the bank for a new engine so that you can actually enjoy the car and now worry too much if it swallows a seal. Ideally, get a car with a (documented) recent engine. In either case, be prepared to spend the a few k a year on maintenance and repairs - which is not really out of the ordinary for a car of this age and performance.

I would go with the car that looks the least abused. It's hard to go off of mile alone but you have to use something. Also if it were me I would go with the single turbo set up. I've had two FD's a 93 with twins running non-sequential and my current one running a single TO4R.

I would have to say the single, even though its running more boost and is ran harder than the one with twins ever was has been much more reliable. In my opinion the key is having a good tune done on the car after any significant mods are done, that really helps with the reliability.

i'd take both somewhere to get a compression test. which ever tests the best is what i'd go with. last thing you want is to have to replace the motor right after you get your hands on it...

Just an FYI, a single turbo FD is going to need a complete fuel system upgrade and a tuned standalone ECU at the very bare minimum. The one with stock twins will probably be more reliable.

Compression test and coolant hydrocarbon test, yes.

You don't want an engine with a bad coolant seal either.

Dave

yeah true that guys thanks.

how exactly would i go about getting a coolant hydrocarbon test, and a compresion test.

also i got as much passion as anyone on here, thats why ive waited through 6 months of searching to buy one of these.

My .02$ Get the one that looks like it's had the least amount of bs done to it. Don't forget your CA visual emissions!


You must get a compression test on these cars. If you're not careful you'll have your hands on the most beautiful financial nightmare that you ever seen. DO NOT IMPULSE BUY AN RX7! You will regret it.

I like single turbos... Never ever wanted to deal with the twins! Though there are many smart guys on here that can help you. Buying the car means you have to be ready with money on the side to fix it. If you don't plan on fixing it you shouldn't but it and if you do buy it you should plan on not driving it.

Get the hydro-carbon test and compression test as stated above... That's the main battle with these cars...

You can do a semi-compression test yourself on the car:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

Using a cheap $20 piston engine compression tester will at least give you an idea if the engine is healthy or not. As far the hydrocarbon test, you'll most likely have to take it to a shop for that. There are some home testers, but the good ones I've seen are extremely expensive. Hydrocarbon tests are pretty standard for all cars, not just rotary powered cars, so it should be very easy to find a shop to do it. Any shop that does coolant flushes/changes will have the equipment.