rebuild cost?
 

is there any significant differences between the requirements of rebuilding a 94 13b versus any earlier year 13b. a close froend of mine who is a reputable rotary mechanic locally is saying 3500 to rebuild my 94. seems like a shit ton of money since they can be bought for that or just a tick more...

A new engine is almost $4500. Disadvantage is you are stuck with stock ports and all oem internals. As always, a lot depends on your application.

It's a lot of work to tear down an engine, properly clean it, inspect it for causes of failure, discard out-of-spec internals, prep it for the build, clearance all seals, and properly build it (not to mention portwork). You'd be amazed the number of 'professionally' built engines we tear down that didn't make it many miles that have completely worn oil control rings, loose side seals, out-of-spec endplay, sloppy portwork etc etc.

If your good friend is quoting you that price and it includes ALL new oem seals/springs/o-rings/gaskets/bearings, then it's not a horrible price--- if it includes the labor to R&R the engine from the car. Your post lacks a lot of information, so it's hard to give you a 100% correct answer.

im assuming it is remove and replace but it includes the cosumabes and a street port...not to stereotype...but he is fro PR and ive seen his work go down the track....recently built a PP 13b on methanol that made 254hp N/A. that seems pretty good but ive always built piston motor myself

$3500 parts and labor is decent for a quality build. You can spend anywhere from $2000 upwards to $10,000 depending on what you do. $3500-4500 is around the norm.

Those he have a shop?

Ray is selling NEW engines for $3800. Stock ports, yes, but every part is new OEM. If your rotor housings and/or rotors are bad, it's an alternative worth consideration imo. Most early failures of these engines are due to the set-up being wrong or re-using marginal parts. I recently took my motor apart because of a (very slightly) leaking coolant seal and found the rotor housings and rotors to be perfect, so I'll just get the irons checked out and put her back together with new seals, gaskets, and bearings - all depends on the level of wear/damage to the parts. Oh, and I'm using studs this time, not those stupid tension bolts.

Actually, I can get a new engine for $3400, but I have connections ;)

Give banzai racing a call. They have very reasonable rates and do amazing work. I sent them my motor for rebuilding but it's not rebuildable.

is banzai in CA. that alot of shipping

just looked tham up....dame they are reasonable...their break down for shipping is first class

I'm telling you man. I'm in NC and they got my motor in two days once it was picked up. Chris had it disassembled and pictures online to show the damage the next day. Even in my case, needing a new motor completely, they are very reasonable. Freight charges suck, but it's a reputable shop so to me, worth every penny.

banzai is in Indiana

RX-7 World (Kings Mtn, NC) is alot closer, they've been building these engines at least 10 years and the rates are very reasonable - it's all about attention to detail

That price is incorrect. I just spoke to Ray late last week about it.

And at your power levels, those 'stupid tension bolts' are 100% fine.

rotaryrebuildstore.com is a great alternative.

They offer new rotor housings and a street port SHIPPED for 3600. And cheaper if you want stock ports/used rotor housings etc.

I think the creator of that site is on this forum too but i forget who it is.

Thats probably something i would do instead of taking out my engine and having it shipped someplace to do my rebuild.

^^More outdated info ;)

I talk to David Jerome regularly and he is pretty much out of the engine porting/building game. He's been sending his work to a couple of different shops, one of which is mine.

I just checked out rotaryrebuildstore.com...are the streetports large? Also, im wondering if you can request to have an engine bridgeported.

lol might wanna talk to him again.

He advertises his website and pricing in his sig everytime he posts. Maybe he sends you work when he's swamped, so i highly doubt he's out of the game. Otherwise he needs to revise his website/sig.

It was djseven to the other people who read this thread, i just checked.

Personally, there are two shops I would ship a motor to before I considered shipping it to any other.
1) IRP
2) CPR

I believe there are other good engine builders out there including some of the ones metioned above. BUT, if it were me, these two shops seem to show some of the best attention to detail as well as really communicating with the owner to build a motor perfect for the intended use. It is more of a complete build as opposed to just an engine build.

If you don't have money for a proper rebuild you can go the easier route although risky, buy a jspec engine. Although these motor can be bough for a little as $1200 they can ether last some time or become a ticking time bomb.

I recently bought my self one of these JPAN engines (i was too impatient to rebuild) and the first thing i did was strip it down the the bare block. Revised the rotor housing for visual damages and sprayed the rotors and seals with PB blaster to clean off some carbon buildup and help lubricate seals. Took compression after I installed motor so far so good 100PSI. Anyway this just an option but its best to do it right and rebuild professionally..

Oh of course, its not like im trying to sway people away from certain businesses, i just named a site/person that is relevant to the OP's need.

And some people want to just BUY an engine instead of taking out your blown engine, sending it for rebuild, waiting for them to complete the rebuild (because you have to wait in line), then waiting for them to ship it back to you, then reinstalling it.

Because the person i mentioned, thats what i would do is just buy a fresh rebuilt engine outright, then do the swap, then rebuild the blown engine. Kinda like having a backup.

So there is little to no downtime. I think everyone should have 2 engines anyway. One in the car and one ready to go into the car when the current one goes lol.

That's the price he just quoted me a couple weeks ago, Rich, so he must have just changed it

Highly debatable. There was evidence of movement at tear down (chatter marks near the bolt holes). The stock tension bolts stretch too much, let's face it, they're cheap. I'm going with studs this time.

I still build but not currently taking work. The pricing on my site is outdated unfortunately. That's what happens when a buddy builds your site. The only price that is grossly outdated is the new housing builds. I used to pay $440.00 a piece for new housings, now they are around $750.0 a piece.

If the price includes pull and install then that isn't bad at all. A typical pull, rebuild and re-install will easily run $3k by the time you replace damaged internals. That isn't considering new coolant lines/hoses, fuel lines, FPD and all the other stuff
That is due to be replaced. And that price of $3K is in line with the more affordable shops. Pretty much every part for these cars had risen in price due to the current value of the dollar to the yen.

Moving forward I am only taking customers who want to spend money todo things right. The car is 20 years old at this point and usually needs far more attention than customers anticipate.

I hate taking shots at people...BUT, I pretty much tell every new FD owner to join this site and do the exact opposite of everything you recommend. Your recommendations never cease to amaze me.

Thanks for clearing that up Dave, agree with all of the above :icon_tup:

That's why your business is in the shitter. Oh and you don't "hate" taking shots at me, you do it all time, and I make damn sure to steer as much business as possible away from you.

Business in the shitter? He is turning away work on purpose. This isn't his full time job.

This is a small community and there is no need for "in fighting". However, you have had disagreements or arguments over the years with about every single valuable forum member or business/vendor. It gets old. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, but when that opinion is based on what someone has heard/read and not what they have seen or accomplished with their own hands its hard to give it credit.

Maybe I am a bad salesman, I just cant promote the "snake oil" fixes for these cars in the pursuit of a dollar. I just tell people what to realistically expect and what I have seen in my time over the years. I have customers daily driving FDs for years with well over 400whp on the stock tension bolts. Enzo's brother ran 9s on a stock block for Christ's sake and you are preaching studding your 350whp motor? :lol:

PM below of a PM I received from YZF while typing this post.

"You'e not some kind of personal mentor to new owners here, get a grip. I didn't make any recommendations in that thread aside from buying a new engine if there are damaged rotors/housings. Of course you don't like that recommendation because it takes away from your little backyard garage business. "

The new engine is a great recommendation, for those that have been asking for new housings builds from me over the last 6-8 months this is actually what I recommend. Guess we can agree on one thing.

Im not a personal mentor to all new owners, but myself and a handful of others do our damnedest to steer the new owners away from bad decisions due to all the ridiculous flawed info that is spewed on this forum. I was helping forum members fix issues I had experienced myself long before I was ever offering any rebuilds or other services on this website.

I guess this gives some of the members something interesting to read. Keep on giving your opinions and I will continue to offer help through my experience.:)

What's the average life of a engine used in drag racing? What does that have to do with it? The fact is the stock tension bolts tend to produce erratic torque readings. Using high tensile strength studs is an added measure of insurance, I never claimed it was a cure-all to anything. Your comment was uncalled for, you can simply agree to disagree and leave it at that

Putting your stabbing at each other aside, everyone has a right to their own opinion regardless of what it may be. Personally stock tension bolts suit me fine.

So whats the going cost of a brand new shortblock from Mazda? I thought they were in the 7-8k range before? Does it include a fully sealed block, oil pan and all? I know you can get RX-8 engines for cheap but not the REW?

thewird

^That was answered earlier in the thread, approx $4500, and it even comes with a sealed oil pan ;)

A screaming deal for what you get, I bought one back in 2009 and tore it down to give it a healthy streetport and some RA apex seals. So far so good---even at 500 rwhp day in, day out...... with my shitty oem tension bolts :D

Damn, thats a pretty good deal then. May consider that if I ever seriously damage my motor although it sucks i'd have to open it to port and clearance for ceramics.

thewird

S5+ OEM tension bolts are just fine. We have customers making 600+whp on them without any problems.

Engine rebuild cost http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/r...e_rebuild.html

Even with the new rotor housing price, call it 4500 shipped total, I think that's still a good price for a fresh build with a warranty that you don't need to send a core.

Just wondering. If the pricing is outdated, and you don't take new work, why advertise the site still? Unless you do it to generate customers for other builders.

I just recently stopped taking work, my wife is 38 weeks pregnant. I have a full time sales job that requires me to travel the entire US so I dont think I will have much time for a while to do a lot of builds. The site is there to make my life easier, it is a great tool for customers to see pics, paint schemes, read warranty info, etc. The price is only outdated on the used housing engines by $100.00 which is due to me using ALS seals now instead of Atkins along with me replacing more parts then when the site was originally made.

I pass on work to IR, Banzai, RotaryResurrection, RotorSports, GorillaRE and other shops that I have seen do good work over the years. None of us are getting rich in the rotary game, if you look at all the shops I mentioned above they all started as enthusiasts before starting their shops. I offer something that no one else does besides Mazda, pre-built engines. I will continue to offer pre-built engines at my own pace, the days of constantly having a waiting list are over for a while.

.....he also models for Chippendales Magazine Monthly in his spare time :lol: :D

+1

Email from Ray 2/15/11:

"New engines here $3800.00 with core return. #N3A1-02-200 ALL NEW!"

This is also pure bs, so typical of your broad brush accusations. About the only outstanding argument I had with a vendor here was pre-mix ratios (1/2 oz per gallon). Guess what? My rotor housings and rotors were flawless with 25k miles at tear down, with essentially no carbon on the rotor faces, and I don't inject water.

The stock size studs (which do not required machining) such as Mazdatrix sell are simply added insurance, it's something I'm choosing to do - time will tell if it makes a difference in coolant seal life.

https://www.rx7club.com/vendor-classifieds-276/engine-rebuild-pricing-936215/

i still haven't revised the price list to show the increased labor rate so the final figures are slightly higher.

some people opt for new rotor housings which drastically increase the cost to build an engine(by about $1500 or so), it really depends on the condition of the core engine being rebuilt. if the rotor housings are low mileage or have not been severely abused the S6 housings are usually in decent shape up to about 80k miles or so. good used housings usually cost about $150-175 each.

i have done a number of stock rebuilds for under $2500 which includes engine removal + reinstallation, but as i said it really depends on the condition of the engine.

Im going too damn bald at this point for them to want me anymore. Not too many women with a fetish for balding gingers. :lol:

Forget Chippendales.
You still hold the title of Cuddlebear to those that are closest to you.:blush:


:lol:

what about Pettit Racing?

They built an engine for me ( 4 port motor ) around the early 90`s. It is still going and eating V-8s` on a regular basis. I would use them again but they are kinda pricey. I believe in buy once, cry once. There are other alternative shops out there though that do good work. Look around & do a little homework on this one.:)

hi, i need some clearance here. if i order a new engine from mazda, i pay 4500$ as stated before right? is the engine the same on every rx-7 fd model? i ask because my is a series 8 and i have a blown coolant seal. so i have to decide whether i want a rebuild with fully replaced vaccum lines for (4220-4920$ = 3000-3500€ here in germany, removal and reinstall included) or a new engine from mazda (4500$ = 3200€ + labor costs). Do you know if the prices vary in different countries? What do you think about a street port for a nearly stock car (only catback and downpipe)? Would i need a tune for my power fc or can i still run the stock map? are there any other disadvantages of a street port? i read that you gain up to 30hp and that a street port is the base for further engine tuning.

The engines are the same, and I'd stick with stock ports in your application. How many miles are on your block? Depending on mileage, you can't go wrong with a brand new stock block :icon_tup:

http://allmazda.net/parts/RX-7/AEFA0...801/N3A102200/ ... 7432€ for a shortblock, thats 10,5k $.
on my engine are 64 000 km only. im planing a bnr conversion within the next few years, thats why i ask for the street port.