Umm, Eye protection for the grinder Damon? :rolleyes: ;)

How about "no sandals" even if the car is on quality AC Hydraulics jackstands.

I wear at minimum close-toe shoes, but I have a set of "steel toes" for garage work, and a pair of Dickies pants & shirts.

:-) neil

That little stone did such a poor job of grinding the bearing race there was absolutely no danger of flying debris :p: I took the parts to work and used an abrasive blade on the chop saw to grind a notch through the races and then split them with a chisel.

When I did my bearings the races were a tad larger than the spindle and I could get hold of them with a gear puller. These two were different; they were the same size as the spindle and there was no hope in using the puller so I cut and then hammered them off just like the FSM says you must.

Sorry to dig up an old old thread, but what size sockets did you use for pressing out the bearings?

What were the size of the sockets you used?

You may find it best to just measure for the sizes you need, go to your favorite socket supplier and pick out the sockets that fit.

Socket size will vary from brand to brand, different models within a brand, and date of manufacture.

I just went through this with sockets used as drifts to press out suspension bushings.

I can give you this answer after this weekend. I'll be doing my rear wheel bearings (+ fronts + arp studs + rest of SuperPros, etc.) this Saturday.

I'm doing mine right now, just got one of the axles loose from the hub. Other one is soaking in PB blaster overnight. I recommend that stuff as mandatory for this job. What part number did you use for the ARP studs, I'd like to replace mine as well.

After looking at it I don't think the size is that important if you use the old wheel bearing to press in the new one, I have some left over large sockets from doing my pillow ball's I think they might work. I'll let you know.

I used ARP-100-7708. From what everyone is saying, definitely do it NOW, while you're doing your wheel bearing, because you won't be able to get access to the studs again without destroying another wheel bearing.

FWIW, when I did my pillowballs, I rented out a ball joint pressing tool from Autozone, which included four large receiver tubes that worked flawlessly instead of sockets. They were pretty large in size, so you might want to go rent/check that out before you go spending your money on huge sockets.

Luckily, my friend has an 1" drive oversized socket kit, so I'll be set :D

I just got the 35mm socket from sears, (got a gift card for xmas) and a soft faced mallet from home despot, the sizes are not that specific, you just need one small enough to punch out the spindle. Then you'll need one that is large enough to grab the lip of the outside of the bearing, but small enough not to make contact with the inside of the hub.

sweet info!! Thanks a ton!

Thanks for the tip.

How about getting the old bearing out without a press?

I've never tried this personally but friends have used a torch to heat up the spindle around the bearing enough so that the metal expands and the bearing falls out when smacked upside down. You'll need a press, or possibly a large vice, to press the hub into the new bearing without damaging it. I'm sure someone local to you will be glad to let you use their press in exchange for some beer or a pizza.

The harder part of this job is removing the inner bearing race that gets stuck on the spindle. You can cut the race with a hacksaw or grinder and use a chisel to get it off. In my experience, this method is faster, less cumbersome/frustrating than trying to get a puller to remove the race. It's not too bad of a job. Make sure you have a beefy pair of snap ring pliers to get the giant snap ring on/off easily. Shameless plug time... I carry rear bearings on my website (click the bushing man on my sig) if any of you need any :nod:

I don't understand how no one sells the axle flange.

That way I can just buy everything new and press only the new parts on and just throw the entire old assembly away.

Holy cow. On Friday I called the dealership to ask how much a rear bearing cost. $200 for one!!!!!

:(

Why would you get anything from the dealership? They don't call it stealerships for nothing.

I found timken rears for like 80 bucks each.

I haven't heard of Timken before. I went to there online website but it says I need to be a business, or did you find a local retailer?

DBL J

You can even (if you want too) take the old bearing to any local beating specific business and see what they have for a replacement, or maybe even a HD upgraded one...

If you have the measurements, or take the old ones with you, they (any bearing place) should be able to do something for you...

My brother has to do this with his small business and some of his old out if date equipment that needs repair...


J.

Go to a distributor then.

Autopartswarehouse.com, parts geek.com etc.

Timken is a WELL know bearing company. All the ls guys use timken for all their cars. I got timken wheel bearings for the goat.lol.

But weirdly the goat was easier to do the job than these pita rears. Lol

Thats crazy! I sell Koyo rear bearings for $50 a piece. Timken is a good brand and I'm working on getting a good price for their front wheel bearing/hub assembly to add to my website.

I'm thinking of buying a small press to do this job. do you guys think I can perform the press job with this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-a...ress-3552.html

Doesn't have to be the same exact model but that type. Small press for a small job. Will this work??

I have 2 bearings to do so I think the cost of this is worth it. Instead of finding a shop to press for me.

That press wont work due to it's size. You'll need to find a really big arbor press which are expensive and a bit harder to find. The biggest issue is the very limited amount of space you have in the press to work with. I have a 20 ton hydraulic press which is the perfect size for positioning the spindle assembly for a bearing replacement. You may be able to get away with a small 6 ton press which costs about $100 but you need to make sure you have enough room to work with inside the press. It's not so much how many tons the press is but how big the work area is inside the press.

Yeah I was looking at the work area. But I was uncertain on it working or not.

But from the pics of the spindle with the trimmed dust shield, I thought I could get away with it.

I think the ton capacity is sufficient I just wanted something small and cheap to do the job and be done..I have no need for a huge 12 ton floor press, no do I want the space it occupies.

I used this on my Subaru the big screw did strip but I just returned it and got another one :nod:

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

Hmm that might actually work, im gonna try that. And if it doesnt, ill return it. HF has always been good to me. Thanks man!