That (cavitation at high RPM) was a conclusion drawn solely from the HP curve Dale posted at the beginning. That curve showed that the pump under discussion resulted in a lower HP output at all RPM's except at the top of the curve, where it showed more HP (see my previous explanations). The only logical conclusion I could come to was that it may have been cavitating at the highest RPM tested, but pumped more and drew more HP below this. It could just be an anomaly in the Dyno curve.
The reason I got into this at all was that Dale stated that it pumped better AND gave more HP, and I couldn't understand that.

Ah, I see. I'd probably agree with your analysis if that was the data you were looking at.

I didn't notice any change in HP on my car fwiw.

Most people wont notice a small drop in the very peak of their power band (especially considering the high RPM point) if there is a small gain in the low end. It is the low and mid range that will stand out on the "Butt-Dyno"

I may have missed the part on the pulleys. So...is it better to use the stock pulleys or a underdrive set? Right now i have greddy pulleys and was wondering if i need to find me a stock set in order to use this water pump.

I believe David "Chadwick" has been building a lot of auto-x’ing experience using the Re-medy WP along with underdrive pulleys on a mod’d engine.

Serious bump from the past. I hadn't seen this before. Thanks for bringing it up again.

Where the heck is the dyno sheet referenced in the OP in that RE-diculously long RX8 thread?!

These are still realy available. Ordered mine on Monday got it Wednesday.

^How much was it? I've been thinking about this, but when they jumped to ~$400 I said screw it.

Website says $245.00

http://www.mazmart.com/PartsList.aspx?id=27&n=NEW&m=5

Well worth the price.
Get the tstat too while you're at it - $40 if they have them.

its 245 plus a few dollars shipping

Oh damn that's not bad. If you're talking about the water level sensor, I already have one of those, but the old one is stuck in my housing so I gotta replace that haha.

Damn I might go ahead and jump on this.

This water pump is the same items that would come with a Mazda WP; i.e. only the front cover, impellor and pulley hub. It bolts to the WP housing wihich includes the hose neck , thermosta housing extra. You will need a new gasket, and transfer WP pulley.

No, I know all that. I'm just saying I wasn't sure if he was talking about replacing the level sensor (which is on their page) or the thermostat, both of which I already have. I know it's only the water pump, no big deal. And the gasket comes with it, at least that's what the website says. Either way, I have one of those also. My level sensor got stuck in the neck and I have an extra one laying around somewhere. I just gotta work it out.

Dan Chadwick did use this all last season at the Auto X. He has done a few events this year as well.

I just ordered one.

right, the gasket does come with it, was under packing material at bottom of box.

I ordered one yesterday!

intermittant noise from RE-Medy water-pump ?
 

I finally got the FD to the track, and after a 20-minute session, we are hearing a slight metallic-rub that is coming from the cooling system, most prominent on the nut at 12-o'clock of the RE-Medy water-pump pulley (use used a long screw-driver touched various parts and placed our ears on the screw-driver handle).

After a 30-minute cool-down, it goes away.

It is INTERMITTANT with no set pattern, or cyclical rhythm.

We were thinking the pump impeller might get lose at high-temps, but then it would be cyclical noise, which it isn't ?

Any other ideas ?

Thanks,
:-) neil

FWIW, with the OLD water-pump, typically water temps would be closer to 220-F at the track; with the RE-Medy water-pump, it's been a steady 210-F running 14-lbs of boost on a mild-street port, with stock turbos 4x850cc injectors, and stock airbox, and SMIC.

Can someone tell me what the bolt thread and pitch is on the water housing? One of my old and corroded bolts snapped when trying to take one off.

I think they are just standard 6x1 mm

You could take one of the other bolts out and take it to Autozone and run it in their pitch/thread board to see what size it is. Just a thought. Or if you have a tap and die set, you can use the tool that comes in the kit to find that info too.

Also, I have this water pump on now, and I'm usually hovering around 170*F with the fans on all the time. I don't have an undertray on right now, and I have a VMIC setup so my radiator is mounted a little differently. I'm also running mostly water and there should be a little water wetter still in the system. Just for information's sake.

I installed the pump and testing has begun :)
 

My old pump with 120k miles has finally died. Started weeping from bottom of weep hole who knows how long ago. I knew it was going to die because the pulley had a little bit of wobble and was starting to eat my main drive belt.

Here's some pics I took of the new pump, my old pump

Here's some pics of the install, I replaced the thermostat & water pump housing/front cover gasket too

Yeah, those bolts are M6-1x30 mm (may be a little longer or shorter, not sure, 10MM socket will do the trick). Hope others have better luck than I did with them... two of my bolt holes in the w/p body ended up hosed (crossthread) and I had to retap. One of those holes was so bad that I had to drill out the hole, retap and use a bigger fastener. I had to enlarge the hole a tiny bit in the w/p housing the bolt goes thru. Not fun. The aluminum material is so soft, it's really easy to screw it up. Oh, another thing... be really careful when you remove/replace the alternator. When I pulled it out, it banged against my water thermosensor and BROKE it!!! :mad:

Don't you think 170 is a little too cold? :) I just had a chance to test mine out the past two days (got new thermostat w/o the jiggle pin, I drilled a hole instead) and my driving normally (putting around on the street, stop-n-go traffic) temps sit right around 180*F/82*C-185*F/85*C. Running approx 70/30 water/coolant mix, ambient temps are 65-75*F. Interesting thing I noticed is when I get on it (1-2-3 shift, full power, shift around 7k or so), the temps hardly change!! My mechanical gauge would swing up at least 5-10 degrees F (PFC would go up by 2-5*C) under the same conditions with the old pump/thermostat... I verified this with a dozen or so sprints... I will get the car to an autocross later this year or early next and report more results...

Oh, and the added hp business... can't tell a difference. I probably couldn't really tell even if I made or lost 10 hp.

great picture and info on your experience Mike. thanks. Interesting preventative maintenance upgrade for our FD.

gallery2...nice. i'm running a gallery3 install right now. it's so much more streamlined. still lacking features though.

Are you serious or just joking? LOL

I don't think my temps have risen under throttle either, but I don't remember for sure. I'll have to pay attention next time.