This is my first time to pull or even work on an FD for that matter. Although I have pulled and installed/turbo swapped about 6-7 FCs in the last year, so I am up for the challenge and looking forward to it. I am going to be pulling my engine this week, shes not blown, but has a very bad oil leak and alot of other work will be conducted on the block and I feel it is best to pull it out.

Here is a short list of items I am going to replace/upgrade while its out

-Reseal oil pan with viton gasket and stainless steel pan brace
-Maybe upgrade front cover gasket to the JDM metal (gotta see if it is leaking or not)
-balanced, blueprinted and cleaned injectors (RC)
-SS MOP
-New OEM FPD (was going to do the Marren, but not sure what is really needed to swap it)
-Silicon vac lines (simplified sequential)
-Tapping thermo housing for gauge
-Ceramic coating turbine housings, exhaust mani, and DP
-Efini Y-pipe (maybe weld divider in bottom)
-Dual oil coolers
-Spark plug wires

Plus a long list of others, once I finalize the detailed list I will post it to share with everyone.


Anything else I am missing that should be replaced while I am in there? BTW the enigne ran great (other than typical hesitation).

Are there any tips that I should be aware of to help it go faster and smoother? Pull/install engine with tranny, or by themselves? Accessories that should be removed while in the car (PS or AC comp)? Anything would be appreciated.

 

You should probably replace the rear main oil seal and the rear stationary gear o-ring if they're leaking.

 

I pulled the motor with the tranny. It was pretty easy. The driveshaft slides right out when you're pulling the motor out. It would help if you get two people to do it. Also, if you do decide to pull the motor w/ the tranny, you'll need to unbolt everything up at top (shifter ****, bushings, wave washer, boot, etc.). Also, when the engine is being pulled, the transmission housing wants to touch the underbody of the car, be careful 'cause you might mess up your shifter. BTW, when you slide the driveshaft off the transmission, A LOT of transmission oil will come out. You might want to block it up with something.

Good luck!

Oh yeah, gaskets for the oil pan seem iffy. Just use RTV gasket sealer (I used the copper one from Permatex) and then seal it up. Make sure to remove all of the old gasket material off of the bolts 'cause when you re-torque them and you didn't remove the old gasket, you WILL break the bolt or ruin the thread. Ask me how I know.....

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/water-temp-sender-thermostat-housing-bad-idea-392910/

 

FD'S have a pull type clutch so know how to release the wedge collar.

 

mgoddard1, I will look into to those, most likly I will just change them no mater what.

chillin rx7 guy, thanks for the tips, but I am aware of those already just from working on the FCs. Beisdes always drain the fluid from the tranny, no more spills As for the gasket, I am trying something new, the OEM is a cork/paper gasket. I thouight since Aspecs and Pineapples use an oring of the same material, why not make a gasket out of it??

KINETIK_FD3S, how is releasing it done?

 

anything else?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=clutch

 

I always just separate the clutch from the flywheel so I dont have to pop the wedge collar off. That way you can reeuse the wedge collar if you dont have another. You will need the clutch alignment tool to put that back together though. You should also look at your clutch fork while you are in there. If it has more than 60K on it I would go ahead and replace it. (And if you order a fork then order a wedge collar too cuz they are cheap).


Another thing I have heard alot is to not use a gasket on oil pan or front cover. Just use silicon to seal it. I am pulling mine this week and that is what I plan to do.

 

I have been thinking about the JDM metal front cover gasket, I have heard alot of luck with that one.

Damn, I forgot about the clutch release fork, things just keep adding up! LOL! I am getting all new gaskets for the engine as well, but my question is are there gaskets on the comp housings for the y-pipes?

 

Nope. FYI, things that don't come with the full engine gasket:
oil pedastal (sp?) o-rings (2)
throttle body o-ring (1)
There's one or two more o-rings that it doesn't come with.

 

How do you get the harness out of the firewall? And are there only three connectors to pull through?

 

Eyecandy, check out James Paventi's step by step engine pull and reinstall writeup thread, and the pics are still up!!!: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=152636

 

There is a white plug that is near the hole in the firewall that connects all the sensors to under the dash, make sure you unplug this plug also.

 

I had this same problem!

There is a fourth connector that is up high near the spot the harness goes through the firewall. Once I found/disconnected that one it came out pretty easily. I hear it is much harder to put back in but we both have much to do before we cross that bridge.

Since we are both pulling our engines at the same time for the first time maybe we should exchange phone numbers? Send me a Pm if you want to.

 

With regards to re-installing the harness: The wires can be fished back through fairly easily. The hardest part usually is putting the rubber boot back in properly. Put a little soapy water or silicone lubricant on the rubber boot. Use a long flatheat screwdriver (preferably one with a wide head) and that boot will pop back in with no problems. I know that's a little early for ya, but hopefully it'll help.

-Rob

 

Gonna post pics of your progress???

Jeremy

 

I sure will!!! I was pretty good at the begining, and then I have been forgetting about the whole picture thing. Once I get it out I will start the post, and update the list of mods I am going to do.