Hi Folks,

I'm preparing the pulling of my engine on my RHD (Japan) FD at the moment.

I use the write up on Rotary Resurrection:
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

It doesn't state the removal of the downpipe, but since its written for LHDs and they have no steering column on the side of the downpipe I assume this is different for RHDs..

If I have to remove the DP, whats the easiest way to get to the hidden screws?

 

Unbolt the right side engine mount to lift the engine on the DP side, remove the hoses from the top intake area and get to the hidden screw that way.

 

you dont have to remove the downpipe. it makes thing easier when pulling it but it doesnt HAVE to be removed

 

Oh, btw, its an aftermarket DP, from HKS..

 

Theres a small cover that goes over the head of the downpipe bolts. Remove this and you'll get access to them easier. It is possible to remove the engine with the downpipe still attached but i personally found it easier taking the pipe off before removing the engine. This was on a RHD car. You'll need to get under the front of the car to make it easier.

 

I have another problem with the rotary resurrection write up: My clutch slave cylinder (RHD) is hitting the air intake pipe of the secondary turbo when the engine is moved up about 2-3 inches:



You can see the air intake pipe in the picture, its the aluminium part and looks further away than it really is.

Do I have to unscrew it from the inside of the firewall?

 

Are you using a spreader bar? Should be able to adjust the angle of the engine to clear the master with a bit of adjustment.

Disconnecting the steering shaft from the rack, (marking both ends beforehand!) will make things go easier if you want the downpipe still on the engine.

 

why not remove the rear intake pipe?

 

Never thought about it, because its so damn tight back there. I have no clue where to even search for bolts..

 

On a RHD car, you cant take the rear turbo pipe out the vehicle as it will get stuck against the clutch master cylinder. What you need to do in this order is

Undo the rear turbo pipe from the rear turbo (this is done from underneath the car 2x10mm nuts very easy to access from underneath car)
As the rear turbo pipe is loose, this will give you access to 2 more 10mm nuts on the Y-pipe. Remove the Y-pipe from above the car and now you can remove the rear pipe at the same time.

 

You would also need to remove the steering column 1 10mm bolt per side on splined joints. Pushed back and comes out

 

Great, thank you very much!!

 

All you need to do is removr one 12 mm bolt on the top of the steering shaft that goes neat the exhuast... losses the one on the other side, the shaft will pull out of the sleeve fall down, then the DP can stay on


J.

 

Thanks for "re-wording" what i said before. Really helpful !

 

Some people (like me) might get confused because the steering column is in the car (steering wheel attaches to this). Where as the steering shaft is the part in the engine bay, sorry for any spelling mistakes.


J.

 

I did notice that pulling the engine in my Rhd was a bit trickier than my lhd was.

 

Just wanted to give a quick feedback:

With removing the secondary air inlet from the turbo and disconnecting the steering rod the engines came out with the dp without a problem.

Thank you very much for the advise!

 

FWIW, I had all kinds of trouble getting my engine back in w/ the DP (and trany) installed even though I had no problem pulling it out with it on. Ended up taking it off and installing it after the engine was mounted. LHD tho.

 

The stock rhd dp will slide out without removing the steering column. An aftermarket rhd dp fits too but is a little tighter.

 

good job !
my motor came out with the dp. but went back in without it. just go with the flow