what's a good boost controller for a 3rd gen? would any electronic boost controller work? is there a specific boost controller to work the sequential turbo??? I'm thinking bout getting the Greddy Profec e-01 plus the e-manage... any suggestions???

 

Why do you need a boost controller?

If you do need one, you can pick up a Greddy Profec-B for a little over 300 bones. There are more sophisticated boost controllers such as the Apexi AVC-R but they cost a lot more and are much harder to set-up. I like my Profec-B so far, it spools quickly and controls the boost very well.

You can also look for a used one for even less.

 

well, I'm leaving for Hong Kong and Japan this Friday, I'll probably pick up a set from there..... my main concern is that would any EBC work for the sequential setup? since I'm picking up a piggy back computer anyways, it's either S-AFC, power-fc, or e-manage... and if the Profec e-01 can be connnected into the e-manage, is that I better setup with more flexibility in adjustment? the screen of the profec e-01 can be used in replacement of a laptop computer to program the e-manage, so that's much better for me, since I don't have money for a laptop.

 

The Apexi Power FC is NOT a piggy-back unit. It is a stand-alone computer that replaces the stock ecu. I wouldn't use a piggy-back computer for any reason, especially not simple ones like the S-AFC or E-manage. You're much better off just getting a used M2 or Pettit chip than relying on one of those. The Greddy E-manage can only add fuel at FIVE points, that is not nearly precise enough to safely control fuel. Besides, unless the piggy-back intercepts the boost signal, you will still not be able to boost over 10 psi. In which case, the stock ecu is perfectly adequate all by itself.

I'm not familiar with the Greddy Profec-E01 boost controller. Just get the Profec-B and be done with it. And, no, you can't just use any EBC. EBCs like the Profec-A use fuzzy logic to control boost. This will not work with the sequential twins.

Again, what mods do you have or planning to have? Why do you want to purchase a piggy-back ecu?

 

If you are planning on staying sequential then I would recommend the Blitz SBC I-D boost controller. From everyone that I have talked to that run that one it seems to give the fastest spool up and also the most precise control. Granted it is a little harder to set up initially, it is better in the long run. If you are planning on going non-seq or single later then I would recommend the GReddy Profec B unit for it's ease of use and also it's quality. Just my .02, I hope that it helps. Laterz.

Zach

 

my 3rd gen is running really rich now from whatever the last owner did to the car.... I had my 1st gen S-AFC in there and fixed up the problem, so I'm thinking that maybe I can get a stand alone or a piggyback to do more adjustments.. the old school S-AFC is good, but I wanna get something better and newer.... Power-FC is too expensive I think... so my other option is a cheapo S-AFC or the e-manage.... btw, the US ECU is N3a1 and the jap version is N3a7 (or the other way around)... but the plugs are the same. if I get a power-FC from Japan. would it work properly with US spec ECU????

 

oh, I wanna get the Profec e because I just love the way it works and the way it looks... wonder if it would work on the Sequential... hum........?!?!??

 

rynberg,

just wanna ask.. since you're using the Profec B... I have a big ??? about connecting a EBC on a sequential twin.. where do you hook up the hose for the control motor? from the primary actuator? what do you have to do to the secondary then???

 

See if you can get your hands on a July 2002 issue of Sport Compact Car Magazine. (blue cover with blue WRX on front and caption "crank the boost")

They did a comparisson of the 6 most popular electronic boost controllers, and also a simle 'ball valve style' manual boost controller.

Some of the info included in the tests: Pros, Cons, Price/Source, Aesthetics, Ease of Installation, Clarity of Instructions, Features, and Customer Support. They did 2 dyno runs on each controller with differently RPM start points and different boost levels.
They also tested the controllers ability to resist boost spiking.

If you want specific information about a certain boost controller you can PM me and I will write it out for you.
They did 126 dyno runs testing out all the controllers!

 

so which came out on top? my guess would be the blitz unit or greddy profec b.

luigi

 

I just ordered the SBC-ID a few days ago, and it should arrive at my door soon, I plan on doing a writeup on the boost controller for everyone on the board including pics and install blah blah blah

Steve

 

If you are going to use a S-AFC you should purchase a new motor at the sametime. S-AFC does not control timing which needs to be adjusted when raising your boost.

 

hey jason any update on my SBC-ID? my e-mail is m_e_t_a_l@juno.com. I wanna throw up a review for everyone asap

thanks!

Steve

 

Steve,
Emailed you tracking this morning. Did you get that?

Jason

 

There are two methods of hooking up the Profec B. One is to connect it as Greddy intended and simply connect it to the wastegate actuator (it essentially replaces the function of the wastegate solenoid). This will control boost once both turbos are active (above 4500 rpm) and will also control the primary to some extent. A lot of people have reported that it is difficult to get more than 10-11 psi on the first turbo this way but that's all I'm running now so I can't comment. This is the best way to hook it up when you have a stock ecu or piggy-back situation IMO.

The other way to hook it up is to T both the pre-control and wastegate actuators to the Greddy. I've heard that this will allow you to control the primary as well as the primary+secondary very well but many people have had pretty bad spikes at the transition. I would only consider trying this set-up with a stand-alone ecu and if you really need over 12 psi on the primary.

 

Jason,

 

Jason,


It came in today! VERY quick shipping, took 2 days!!! thanks alot, and everyone else expect a review, install instructions etc in a few days, or a week maybe, depends how much time I have.

Steve

 

A week! after 2 day shipping we want it now.
Eric

 

I have the Profec B on my 7 and it works great...no complaints from me...

 

I just looked through that issue...it looks like the Profec came out on top.

 

so is my idea of getting a Profec-e is a bad idea???? no one seems to be giving me an answer about it....

 

Your best bet would be to get the Power FC from Apex'i. It may seem expensive, but compared to a new motor it's not. Also, with all of the tech support on the forum and from Apex'i it seems to be the only way to go. As far as boost controllers, Profec B or the Blitz unit are really about the only two to consider. That statement is backed up by numerous FD owners, magazines, as well as other force induction vehicle owners that I am good friends with. I hope that I have been helpful. Laterz.

Zach

 

Get the Profec B...

 

Oh GOD no!!! This takes away ALL control of the boost system and you'll see CRAZY boost levels! The *best* way to hook up the profec B is Nipple on the turbo -> profec stepper -> wastegate -> precontrol -> CAP!
Cap every thing else like the metal hoses that allow the ECU to control boost and the other nipple on the turbo outlet. You can have as much boost as you want (or as little as 7psi), and you won't get spiking. Get the profect and hook it up correctly and you'll be happy.
~Tom

 

Testing was preformed on a 1997 Eclipse GS-T with a front-mount intercooler, big injectors, cams, a popular hybrid-turbo known as a Frank Stage 3, and a 3-inch exhaust. Two key points to remember when comparing these results are that this car exhibits minor boost creep and it has an internal wastegate. We intentionally tested a car with boost creep because it's a comman problem. In a later test we'll use these same controllers with an external wastegate.

A Dynojet was used to simulate the load of accelerating on the street in third gear. Our two basic tests tracked boost when the throttle was slammed open at 2000 rpm and at 4500 rpm. The 200-rpm test would give th controllers a chance to highlight any improvement in response, and illustrate their stability through the rev range. Tipping in from 4500-rapm challenges the controllers ability to supress boost spiking as the turbo is already up to speed.

When interpreting the data, don't dwell on the final boost level. We were shooting for 12 and 17 psi, but didnt' spend too much effort landing right on those values. More important is the rate at which boost builds, and the cotroller's ability to prevent boost -spoikes and hol.d a constant boost level. The tests at 2000 and 4500 rpm are shown on separate charts.
The transition from building boost to holdin git is a demanding event for the boost controller. THe longer boost can be kept from the diaphragm, the quicker the boost will build. Wait too long and it will overshoot, open it early and response is soft. Even if your get the timing right, there's the problem of how much to open. Again, not enough and the boost keeps going up, too mucha nd your gauge will bounce like a basketball.
Finally, remember these tests were done on a car with an internal wastegate that does exhibit boost creep. Some controllers specifically warn against use on engines lik ethis, and not suprisingly, they didnt' work so well.