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PFS Intercooler problem

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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:15 PM
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PFS Intercooler problem

Anyone know how or what i could use to replace this piece? I was putting on the Duct....and felt the bolt slipping. I didnt think it was a big deal till i removed the bolt....and the inside threaded sleve fell out! Any suggestions?



Last edited by rx7dv8; Jan 9, 2004 at 03:19 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:26 PM
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maybe you should just use a bigger bolt now. That way you can screw it on the hole that you made there. I don't think it will leak but you can put some of that tefflon tape.

Just my .02 cents.

Amel
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:37 PM
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Get some JB Weld and put the sleeve back in.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:55 PM
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Will the JB Weld adhere well enough to the sleve? I believe the sleve is aluminum as well.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:55 PM
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Since the IC is made of aluminum, I would suggest getting a tap and make a larger thread for a larger bolt. That way you won't have to worry about it coming loose or dropping a piece of metal inside the IC and potentially into your intake. just my 02 cents.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:58 PM
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That style sleve is available from McMaster-Carr - Just get some the next size larger.

Last edited by maxpesce; Jan 9, 2004 at 04:22 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 04:04 PM
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Arrow

Originally posted by rx7dv8
Will the JB Weld adhere well enough to the sleve? I believe the sleve is aluminum as well.
http://www.j-bweld.com/coldweld.html
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 04:06 PM
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Re: PFS Intercooler problem

Originally posted by rx7dv8
Anyone know how or what i could use to replace this piece? I was putting on the Duct....and felt the bolt slipping. I didnt think it was a big deal till i removed the bolt....and the inside threaded sleve fell out! Any suggestions?
The plug is much thicker than the sheet metal tank. Best to have it welded and re-tapped. Check for local machine shops.

If u JB it, just put screw in hand tight (with fingers directly on a socket), with some rtv under the bolt head.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 04:07 PM
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If you want it done right, weld it back if both parts are aluminum, if you don't wanna do this, then JB weld it, it'll stay.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 06:41 PM
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I dont think these sleve's were welded in there to begin with. Seems they were just tapped in and the anchor sleve expands to hold it in place.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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That's correct. At least on mine.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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JB WELD....
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 07:10 PM
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do not entrust jb weld to that task. seriously. Everyone raves about it, but few have actually used it. I wouldn't trust it for that application. I had the EXACT SAME thing happen with my Apexi FMIC. I simply took it to a local welding shop, and paid my $20. It took them 20 minutes, and looks great. That's a simple weld. No worries.

-BN
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 09:57 PM
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There are pop-rivit type threaded nuts that can be put in (I put two in to replace the rear plastic fasteners for the undertray). Put them in with silicone glue around them and you'll be fine. Personally, I would replace the things with short studs sticking out. Putting those bolts in is a real pain.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 02:45 AM
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Dont know about putting silicone around it. I may just try and find a larger sleve to go in.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Originally posted by Benjamin
do not entrust jb weld to that task. seriously. Everyone raves about it, but few have actually used it. I wouldn't trust it for that application. I had the EXACT SAME thing happen with my Apexi FMIC. I simply took it to a local welding shop, and paid my $20. It took them 20 minutes, and looks great. That's a simple weld. No worries.

-BN

Did your's have a sleve like this one? Im tempted to just replace it with sorta the same style sleve. I found this one.....


www.mcmaster.com

Last edited by rx7dv8; Jan 10, 2004 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 12:47 PM
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