as i am doing some repair work on my car....i wanted to block off oil pressure sending unit...did anyone do this... or install after market oil pressure gauge in that location...

the unit its self is bad it never worked properly...sometimes it will show pressure most times its just dead not working at all....

 

take it out to clean it or just replace it, common they get dirty and dont report accurate readings.

not to sure about aftermarket guages in this spot tho

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/oil-pressure-sender-113921/

 

i installed an aftermarket gauge in place of the sending unit. most mechanical gauges come with different size adapters to fit where the sending unit was. my sending unit went bad on me too so it just screwed in in its place.

 

I am going to block it off for now....

but i might install one later... if i do i will go with

AEM 0-150 psi oil pressure gauge


Mahjik - thanks for the link

 

The series 8 FD's don't have pressure sending units and the hole is blocked off from the factory.

 

looks like they got it right that time

 

so what goes in place for the stock oil pressure gauge?

 

Boost gauge

 

i managed to find the part number for that bolt that factory used to block off oil pressure sending unit...its 6$ from rx7.com...

 

Negative, they got it wrong. Without oil pressure your engine will die a horrible death, it's one of the most important gauges an FD can have IMO.

 

i think you are confused.... i am not going to block oil pressure....
i am blocking off ( removing )the oil pressure sending unit....witch only send signal to the oil gauge in the car...this will not block oil pressure inside the engine...

Mazda did this on 99 spec rx7 and replaced it with boost gauge...

 

yeah.. and how do you know you've lost oil pressure? Or it's going sky high? I think that's what Rich is getting at. Without monitoring it, you're guessing. And if you're guessing at oil pressure ..... not good.


I personally think the most important gauge on the FD is the temperature gauge.. but that's just paranoid me.

 

Yeah, I'm kind of here or there on oil pressure gauges.

Generally rotaries don't have oil pressure problems. On a new motor, it is possible that you screwed something up and have low oil pressure, and that definitely should be monitored closely on a new engine. But, once you're up and going, it's typically not an issue.

I'm not a fan of aftermarket oil pressure gauges. All you really need to know is if you're getting 30psi at idle, 60psi at 3000 RPM. If that's true, the oiling system is working properly. When the sender goes out, spring for another $80 sender from Mazda and the gauge will work fine again.

I don't blame Mazda for ditching the oil pressure gauge in the '99s, a boost gauge is far more important on the car.

In general driving, low oil level is the only thing I can really see causing oil pressure problems, and that's why there's an oil level sender. I strongly feel that the level sender NEEDS to be there, some people remove that system when going to aftermarket oil pans. An oil cooler line or turbo feed line breaking is all you need to empty the oil pan in a minute.

If someone has experience where the oil pressure gauge was truly useful, please chime in. Again, it does need to be 100% on a new motor, but after you're sure everything is doing what it should be doing, it's not as necessary.

Dale

 

if engine **** its self it will dot it with that gauge or without....

i never really payed much attention to it... because it was never working...and it is not working properly on most fd's out there...

i guess Mazda didn't think its so important when thy removed it in 99spec...and installed the boost gauge instead...

as i posted before i am doing this just for now....6$quick fix for 130$ problem...

i might be going with AEM oil pressure Gauge 0-150psi...in that location

and there is nothing wrong with doing this...



i also think boost and temperature gauge is more important....

 

Mazda thought a lot of things weren't important.... that's why there's so many busted down FDs in the world. And there is a flourishing aftermarket support economy around the car.


I think we're all probably in the same boat. Boost, temp, oil ... the one that can be ignored the most might be the oil gauge after the engine is broken in and is running well. That being said, I think you're right in using it as a temp fix for now.

 

Hey, I've only been doing this for well over a decade, what do I know ?

I won't let a customer car leave the shop without a properly functioning oil pressure gauge.

I agree with what Dale posted above, but one of the things (along with detonation and overheating) that will kill this engine is lack of oil pressure. Your average owner needs as many warnings and gauges as possible, especially when the car came with it from the factory.

I installed a 2002 cluster in my car, and simultaneously wired up a Defi oil pressure (and an oil temp) gauge.

To the OP--do what you want, it's your car. Best of luck with it

 

i do not doubt you man...


it just something i personally wanted to do on my car i am not to worried about it...thanks for your opinion

 

back on to the topic...if any one else in future looks to do this...here is the pic how it looks...
(o-rings are form oil filter pedestal repair..)

 

Does anyone know what size socket it is to take it off?

 

I will attest to s8 not having one is bad. I was lucky my bearings only got to the copper

 

A several year post! I tried to find a sender (reliable) that would work with the stock gauge. Never did so I just go the route Dale suggests above--spring for the $80+ dollars for a new one and you will be up and running fine. I'm on my 3rd or 4th sender at this point, but it works!

 

Having issues with my sender I think. Might be a silly question, but do I need to drain the engine oil before removing this sender? I don't want oil to come spilling out if I just go in there and remove it.

 

The senders typically go bad because they are mounted hard on the block and the vibration & heat kills them.

What I'm looking to do is take the sender off the block and mount it on the inner fender area. And run a flexible oil line from there to the block port. This might take the vibration and heat out of the equation, and let the stock sender live a longer and less stressful life. The sender body just needs to be earthed appropriately in order to function.

 

I just sheared my sender wire when pulling my block. I've personally been saved by it so I definitely agree with the rotary gods above, it is essential. However, a quick google search shows that it will cost you about $126, ouch. The sender is a relatively simple device, right? Does anyone have a cheaper alternative?