At idle and normal driving the car is fine. But when you get on the gas(try to boost), the turbo's spool to 0psi on the boost gauge and stay there. Because of this the engine trips over itself and chugs and bawgs. I'll try and get a vid up showing exactly what is happening. I have a "home depot" boost controller and no matter what I set it at the car still does this. If you have any ideas or want to help, please respond to this thread or pm me.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

recheck all vac lines.

 

how did you do the non seq? what did you do with the pre-controll? wg etc...

 

disconnect the MBC and go for an easy ride just trying to get into boost. That way you can at least rule out one option.

 

Well I did it using one of the diagrams off this site and with the help of a friend. I tossed the pre-control and I have the "home depot" boost controller for the wastegate.

 

sounds like a boost leak. you should check all of your couplers first.

 

Check your MAP sensor and see if you have any ECU codes.

 

As for engine codes, no light comes on. I checked anyways a while back and 2 codes came up- 45-Charge Control, 32-Switch Sol. Valve

 

That what it was when I left RX7Store after some work. I was driving home in the dark, getting NO boost. I thought I was screwed, got home and it was a boost pipe. Good news except it still managed to pop up enough to dent the middle of my hood.

Well hopefully that will be taken care of when I return in the spring.

 

i am almost positive that it is your leading coil...i just had the same problem...your leading coil is malfunctioning...i replaced mine and my car stopped bogging and began to see boost again......give it a try. Peace out and good luck
Ryan

 

Thanks guys,

I'll try that and come back with some results.

 

paging mahjik...mahjik please come to the front desk.

 

what did you do with the precontrol door? wire it open?

 

Coils are good.
But about the pre-contorl door, i dont understand what you mean. Your supposed to chop it out and weld the hinge, are you not? Exhaust manifold is completely open.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

Had this same problem with my Non seq car. Secondary injector wasnt working. A whole lot of headache for a simple fix. I should of had the the injectors cleaned when the motor was out.

 

That is exactly what I wanted to do. But didnt think it was worth it. If that is the fix, then I feel terrible.

 

Well. I took off the downpipe and hooked up my compressor to the hose from the turbo to wastegate. Put my finger on the flapper door and it works fine. So its nothing wrong with the wastegate. Took out turbos, they look fine. So its gotta be somewhere else. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to start pressure testing the fuel lines and my Walbro fuel pump should be in in a couple days.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

Would a problem in the fuel system REALLY not let me boost. That is the question im really trying to get answered here.

 

I had a secondary injector stuck and the car wouldn't let me boost.

did you have you injectors cleaned? if they sit too long after cleaning they can get stuck.

limp mode. car wouldn' rev past 4k -4.5k...can't remember.

put 12V to your injectors make sure they all click.

 

You should be able to build between 1-3 lbs then the car will fall on its face and do nothing. It goes into "safety mode". I am willing to bet it is the injectors. If your car is non-seq it should take no time to pull them out.

Good Luck
David Jerome

 

Thanks guys. I do have one more question though. If the charcoal canister had a problem and wasn't operating right, could that cause a problem causing the car to go into limp mode?

Thanks,

Andrew

 

no.

no sure if the purge solenoid would cause limp, but it should throw a code.

 

I had the same problem. Try this, take it out and floor it. If is doesn't build boost let off and step on it again quickly. when I did this is gave full boost. Found out that I needed to take out the pre-control solenoid along with the wastegate solenoid that I already took out.

 

take out? you mean resistor the connector? of course i did that.

 

Well I redid my resistor work on the connectors. I ONLY did the solenoid connectors. Is that correct or do any other misc. connectors need to be resisted?

Thanks,

Andrew