Ya, then i wiped everything down and got an air compressor on it.
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Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Steel wool won't be your best friend when all the little steel pieces get into you alternator and cause it to fail. You do realize all the little sttle particles will begin to cause rust stains everywhere they land, collect, and get wet. I have to admitt it looks worlds better. I'm just hate to say that using steelwool with parts still in the engine bay will be really hard to clean out and will deffinately start causing rust stains, after all you did use soap and "water" as well so it won't be long before you start seeing the rust.
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...and cheers for doing a quick write up.
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Originally Posted by HDP
Not if it's stainless steel wool. I think that's mostly all they sell nowadays.
The only thing stainless woudn't do is perhaps rust, there are also lesser grades of stainless that do rust so just because it's called stainless doesn't mean it won't rust. It still wouldn't be good) stainless or not) to use it on the alternator, small metal pieces just don't work well with electrical components, and I probably wouldn't have said anything at all if he had said stainless steel wool, or that he was using it around his alternator. I still think the results he got for the amount of time invested is outstanding. |
You can use a small, powerful magnet to collect the steel wool fragments before you wash the parts.
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I would probably do that but would it mess up any electronics? Sensors, relays, etc?
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I doubt it, but you could keep the magnet off the surface of those items you are worried about. The field strength drops quickly with distance, but would still be able to pick up light pieces of steel wool. Just don't put a magnet next to a floppy disk or other magnetic recording media.
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well its been a while since i did this and the thread. just to let yall know, its still in the same condition now as it was then.
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4 Attachment(s)
hey guys. I did this same thing that I did to my UIM to almost every aluminum part when I had my motor stripped down and now look how clean everything looks. The Secondary Rail almost looks polished.
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Originally Posted by DMoneyRX-7
(Post 7642963)
hey guys. I did this same thing that I did to my UIM to almost every aluminum part when I had my motor stripped down and now look how clean everything looks. The Secondary Rail almost looks polished.
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I did mine just the way you said and here's the results
Before: http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...ars/before.jpg After: http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...Cars/after.jpg |
Whenever I have parts apart, I hit them with a wire wheel on my power drill to clean off all the grime. I often hit it with some polishing compound and a polishing wheel also on the power drill. Looks almost polished and LOTS cleaner. I did that on my Y pipe, suspension control arms brake calipers etc.
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I had someone bead blast my intake manifolds for me. After a couple months they begin to dull (this car is garage kept). I even used some spray-on clear engine enamel but it didn't seem to do much. They look a lot better, but they don't like as good as they did right after you clean them.
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lookin good ZAMMM. Lol. I got my car right now at Maztech. They put in my pillow ball bushings and differential bushings. Also fixing my A/C. Picking it up tomorrow. I'm leaving to go back to Nashville on Saturday. Gonna be a fun ride.
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Just want to throw this out there since I didn't see what type of degreaser you used. Purple Power works great on grease but will remove the paint under the hood if used. Was cleaning with it during my swap and discovered the hard way. Just an FYI.
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Ya Purple Power is very strong stuff. But no I didn't use it to clean the UIM.
I used "Engine Bright" (I think that was the brand) from Autozone. Just standard degreaser. No crazy degreasing chemicals. |
I think that looks better than a fully polished UIM anyways... I hate bling.
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