New build, Car wont Start. Trouble shooting has been done... what next.
 

the car:
55k unopened motor
550/1600
power FC
aermotive fpr
relocated coils, homemade bracket.
supra pump
single turbo
re wrapped harness.
only thing left on the UIM is the IACV


Little issues:
CAS plug has broke, used small femal connectors to connect to male CAS pins.

Car wont reach 40PSI of fuel pressure. ( bench tested FPR and fuel pump assemby. Set fpr to 40PSI outside the car.

oil level sensor wire to the pan broke off.

only connections from harness to motor is: Injectors, IAT, coolant temp by water pump, coolant temp in rear iron, oil pressure sender, CAS, coils, power steering.


The story:
the secondary turbo didn't kick in one day, so when i tried to find the issue everything i touched broke. F that, im going single. lots of money and time later it started up after installing the power fc, but the car sounded like a bridge port. didn't rev at all, smoke everywhere.

So started to button everything up, letting it warm up and had a radiator hose blow off and expload coolant everywhere. i was standing right over that hose so i went inside and took a shower. My dad hosed down the engine bay... just fyi.


so either right after that or shortly after that the car wont start.

I had spark while the car was running obviously. i havn't confirmed that i lost spark since then... ( one area to check at lunch today )

sk8world came over the other day and cranked on it some and pulled the plugs: dry, no flood.

pulled the UIM off to check my connections: all is good. even redid my return line fitting as it was peeling the rubber hose inside my braided line back. ( rx7 store fuel kit.)

verified the primary injectors are getting fire with an LED lester. ( injectors were cleaned and flow tested @ marren.)

put new plugs in (9s all around) still no fire.

PFC shows my TPS gettin 4.97V at WOT, ( what should the volts be at 0% throttle?)
PFC show RPM, INGL INGT Timing, INJ Duty %, IAT, Coolant temp, knock, and all of that in the 8 parameter setting.
PIM is moving around while cranking so i guess its working. Ill take a pic of my PFC sensor screen at lunch if that helps.

added grounds from the harness on the engine to the battery ground on the bracket by the power steering pump.

oh and i havn't hooked up any transmission connectors. or maybe just a few.


so i am at the end of the build, and cant get the car stated again. worst feeling ever.

getting tuned next weekend by ray wilson. so i need some help. What have i missed?

just fire away any questions, and ill answer pretty quickly. I have tried pretty much everything.

So you're not getting fuel...have you checked the voltage to the pump?

Are you sure the fuel pressure regulator is hooked up right, supply on the two side ports and return on the bottom?

the fuel pump voltage is .2V off what the battery voltage is.

FPR is hooked up right, Even took to FPR apart to verify the ball seal, possible spring issue, vaccum nipple issue, and ripped diaphram, all looks good.

also cant get the feed and return line mixed up, because i used a AN cap for the feed last night when turning it over with the LED in the injector plug. left the return open... and i didn't flood the place with fuel so im sure i have right.

Auto or manual?

manual.

It turns over but won't start or it won't even turn over?

Double check that the coils are connected to the right plugs. Test that you're getting spark by removing the fuel pump relay hold the plug to the engine while its connected to the coils to see if you're getting good strong spark.

ill double check that.

i cranked on it during lunch with a timing light and i couldn't get a flash. but my light is old and may not be right itself.

Have you removed or relocated the coils or igniter?

Igniter must be bolted to body if not you won't get spark, also coil harness has a ground wire on it, it would help if you take a pic of the sensor screen of the commander and a small video of it while cranking.

yes igniter is grounded with the coil bracket to the body.

i am getting spark. are clean and smell of fuel

do you have resistors wired in for your 1600s?

resistors are wired in.

my thinking is that the car has not used the secondaries yet, and they shouldn't be used for start up right?

so tonight... jumped straight power via another battery to my fuel pump. 40psi at the regulator like i bench tested.

go to start it... no go. seems like after cranking for a few mins the starter doesn't want to spin. so i do the ole straight power to the solenoid thing to get it to turn over.

while under there i see black shit coming out of my wastegate. smells like straight fuel. then i go to my inj/ign/ setting on my PFC and lower the value to .5 it sounds better, but still no start. so thinking i messed up the wiring for the injector and maybe its pouring fuel. so i find the clips i cut for the 1600s and see a brown/black wire on it. thinking i cut the wrong one i tear into my harness only to find that i guess light green turns to brown when it has gotten hot. so then i pull the injector clip off the leading front injector and tried to start again... nothing stilll

here are my results from Marren when i sent off my primary injectors...


Attachment 672889

also here is a video of the first start, this was before it quit starting obviously.

the amount of rich blue smoke it puts out is crazy, its dumping fuel.
keep in mind this is a stock motor sounding like a bridge port.

What changed from when the vid was taken to now?
There was another problem like this a couple of weeks ago. It turned out that tape had found its way into the fuel rail and was clogging the injectors.

I'm starting to run out of ideas but...
Check the trigger wheel and crank angle sensors want make sure all the teeth are good on the wheel.
Could always double check the spark plug wires as many people tend to mix them up.
And check your coolant temp sensor.

nothing has changed from the vid. to how it is now, other than adding coolant.

i have all ready pulled the primary rail and blew compressed air through it and made sure all fuel openings were clear. along with making sure the injector screens were clean, which they are as they are brand new.

spark plug wires are good. however they are just some racing beat wires left over from previous 2nd gens and other rotary cars.


now the CAS is the only thing i havn't touched.

i would start by doing pinout test at the ecu so you can see what the ecu is seeing... so you have started on the obvious such as fuel,spark,etc. go a step further....pull the fuel rails up and have someone crank it and be sure the injectors are acutally spraying. pull each wire and verify you have spark by either just grouding a spark plug or using a spark tester. check fuel pressure before fuel rails/between fuel rails and after fuel rails. spray a little starter fluid in it and see if it makes a difference. check all fuses and relays. be sure that the crank sensors are seeing and sending signals to the ecu( that would keep from getting spark if they are working) also be sure you have the crank sensor connectors in the right spot. white connector closer to the crank and grey closer to the power steering

3F(Narrow range) closed .75-1.25V....wide open 4.8-5.0v
3G(Fuell range) closed .1-.7v....wide open 4.2-4.6v

You said car was way too rich when it got started the first time, maybe you need new plugs

after cranking for a while last night i pulled the plugs... nice and shiney. brand new looking still.

Will do.

this will be difficult, but i will have to try it.... kinda sketchy but it eliminates a variable for sure.


did this with an extra set of plugs in the boots on the shock tower, this is how i verified spark.

this would be a pain in the ass, but it can be done.


PFC shows a spark reading OTHER than -25 ( like when you turn it on and look without turning the car over.)

when i had the crank sensore wires on wrong the PFC stayed at -25 while cranking. now it gives 7 leading 1 trailing.

ok will i would try sparying a little starter fluid in her and she if it spits or sputter (maybe even start ) thats a easy quick thing to try. even brake cleaner or carb cleaner would work. so you know you have spark at least thats good

Plugs could be nice and shiny and be fouled if the were ran for few minutes with to much fuel

the timing sounds like it's way off and the fuel way rich in that video.

did you plug your ghetto female broken CAS plug terminals onto the CAS correctly? if you have them swapped, the timing will be ~15* off, and even farther off when you're in cranking ignition correction (most base maps use ~5* advance for cranking).
which CAS plug was it that you broke? i am assuming it's the trigger (the one closer to the top or center of the engine).

this could get you an RPM signal, but it would flip the reluctor signal to make the timing off significantly.

i can try this at lunch today, and i can try to get some pics ofthe pfc and crank to make sure.

swapped the wires back during lunch, it wanted to start but never did.

swapped them back the way i had them and it fired right up. still runs like shit, dumping fuel. clouds of thick nasty fuel smoke.

i have a puddle under my car where the unburnt fuel as entered the exhaust and ran out at the first flange. so idk, maybe i have super weak spark for whatever reason.

maybe i should put in hotter plugs in the leading to help with starting/ trouble shooting.