My car is totally stock except for a gutted downpipe(no precats) and apex exhaust. I recently replaced the plugs and wires with oem plugs and magnacor wires. While I was under the uim i replaced a few hard vacuum lines. I bought the car about 6 monthes ago and the guy I bought it from didnt know if it had a rebuild or not. The engine seems strong to me and has even compresion across the board. Now for the problems. After putting it all back together, I hooked up a vacuum/boost gauge and took it for a drive. At idle it is reading 18 w/e the common measurement is for vacuum with no drops. When I give it boost the gauge creeps up to about 2/3 psi and then my engine seems to shut down and die. It bucks and I can hear a pulsing "pss'' sound with every buck. When I let off the gas and kill boost, it is fine again. It back fires and is definetly running rich. Same thing in all gears, any speed. And if I rev the engine in nuetral with enough boost, the same thing happens. Also, when I let of the throttle with the clutch in, it seems to stick at around 2k rpm. It didnt do this before. And when i come to a stop it hunts for an idle around 1k-1.5k. it was doing that before but not so often. And finally... a couple weeks ago I used some chevron injector cleaner and ever sinse then, if the engine is warm, it has a harder time starting. any ideas??? please help me!!! thanks

 

Make sure your spark wires are on correctly.

 

checked and double checked. i forgot to mention that i had the same problem before. the only new thing is the hunting idle all the time and the sticking at 2k.

 

Stock ECU?? Did you mess around with idle control? or Idle screw?
When the idle screw is set to low (lower the pfc setting) it will make your car hunt. I've noticed this several times on several different FD's. I haven't used the stock ecu in awhile, but might do the same... but thats for hunting..

Regarding your boost and engine dying.. did you check the map sensor line?

 

Start with the simple stuff.. Double check your work, reset the ecu ( disconnect the neg. battery terminal and step on the brake for a few secs.) Check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor, Check for codes.

 

ive pulled codes for the metering oil pump and its stepper motor (26 and 27) and im going to check those in the next week. i didnt check the map sensor. where is it? the ecu is stock. just exhaust for mods.

 

is that the little black box that say "boost sensor" on it? if so i checked that and it is fine.

 

Oh no.. If you don't know where the map sensor is than you probably pulled that line.

Its hard for me to explain.. look under your hood at the vac. diagram.. Or search the forum.

 

ok thanks

 

Yep, that will put the ecu into limp mode and make it run poorly. the the metering oil pump is on the front cover on the right side just above the oil pan, carefully check the wiring connections to it. If you find the problem, you will need to reset you ecu to clear the "limp Mode".

 

i wasnt sure about that. i have another pump that is ready to go in but ill chack the wiring. i got copys of the diagnosis procedure from my local dealer. could that cause it to run rich?

 

do you mean right side as in passenger side??

 

When you cleaned the injectors some dirt may have gotten stuck in the injector itself to cure this back flush the injector.

 

I never touched the injectors. I just put in some injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.

 

all that i was saying is that when you cleaned your injectors some dirt or other crap may have broke loose from the lines or some other palce and got stuck in your injector, thats all

 

oh ok but it has had these symptoms for a while now. the only new one that came around the same time as the chevron went in was the hard starts when warm.

 

how hard is it to get at the oil pump with the car on jack stands?

 

you should download an fsm... it would be really really helpful for you in this stituation. good luck