OK, while I'm searching the archives for an answer maybe somone can help.

Last night driving home, the battery light comes on, shortly followed by erratic idle and then the oil pressure light, check engine light, and the 4W ABS light would com on any time I pushed the clutch in. I shut it down and managed to tow it home the last couple of blocks.

This afternoon during lunch I crank it up and it has a really rough idle between ~1200 and 2400 RPM, the error lights are all lit, and I'm billowing white smoke. There's also a repetitive clicking noise like the ignition is misfiring. The oil on the dipstick smells like gas. Coolant levels look normal. None of the vacuum lines are obviously loose, electrical connections look good, etc.

I've already checked the MAP sensor and the vacuum line was loose, so I tightened it and reset the ECU with the whole disconnect the battery, step on the brake thing. Didn't seem to help any.

Anyone have any idea? I'm hoping it's just something electrical and not a blown Apex seal.

Thanks.

 

double post .. whooops

 

Sounds like a loose wire on your alternator to me. Check all the connections on it. Especially the one 10mm nut that is underthe rubber boot. That is most likely the one that is loose. You should be fine.

-Dave

 

But the white smoke thing .. Hmmm

triple fat post whoring at it's best..

 

It's your alternator. The clicking sound you hear is the magnetic clutch on your air pump. Fix your alternator -- either connections or the alternator itself and then see what symptoms you still have.

 

Well, unfortunately the connections to the alternator look fine, I disconnected and reconnected them just to be sure, and it didn't help.

Testing everything with the voltmeter the battery registers a 12.4 V charge, which is right on the money, according to my manual.

Belt tension is good, although I don't have a gauge to measure it. I checked all the plug wires and they seem good and snug.

My next step will be to check the voltage at the alternator terminals, although I am a bit scared to run the engine in its current condition.

I'll run an air compressor through the intake this weekend to see if I just blew off a vacuum hose, and probably pull the plugs to see how fouled they are, but I'm not too optimistic.

I'm pretty sure that with the amount of smoke pouring out the back that it's not good

Surprisingly the diagnostic box is not sending me any engine codes

I'm guessing that I just figured out what I want for Xmas.

 

OK guys, just a quick followup. My car was down for a month, basically because I could only work on it in my spare time. I pulled the alternator, and it was indeed shot, so I had it rebuilt and put it back in.

In the process of getting it out I manged to shear off one of the arms on my AST, leaking coolant everywhere and leading to the purchase of some new hoses to connect my new ast to the cooling system (gotta love spending money you hadn't planned on).

Anyhow, I ordered an aluminum AST and got tired of the wait (it was backordered), so I picked up a used stock one off the forum (thanks Gerry), and my car is running again.

When I started it up it still had a high idle (1200RPM or so), and was still spewing smoke out of the rear. All the idiot lights had turned off though. I tokk it around the block to get it warmed up so I could check the coolant levels, and the white smoke disappeared, so that's good.

Unfortuantely the high idle has not disappeared. Does the PCM need to "relearn", or am I going to need toadjust the idle speed from under the hood?

THanks.

 

Nevermind. A couple of trips around the block and its back to idling aroun 750 RPM. I'ts great to be back

 

cool, good to know another 7 back on road