Hey Guys,

I'm getting my car prep for a motor pull and I will be doing this with the tranny in place.
My question is, how long of chain do I need for this? I search the forum and couldn't find what I needed. I ran into a thread "Rednech engine pull" and that was very entertaining. .. Sorry, I would be able to do that pull since I'm a city boy.

Jay

 

wouldn't

 

I usually use a 1.5 ton hoist crane with an engine leveler. The chain off of it are around 1 foot long.


Later

 

Just measure the length between the enigne pull hoops and add a few inches. Its ok if its to long you can always take out the slack by shorting up the chain with a bolt and hoop. sorry kind of hard to explain.

 

I won't be using no fancy leveler, so about three feet?

 

that should work. You will need some large bolts to insert between the chain links and the pull hoops.

 

leveler will save you a lot of sweat and tears

 

Thanks for all the inputs.

 

Do your pull and then later you'll wish you had some fancy leveler....especially when re-installing it



Later

 

I've done three different engine/trans removal and installations total of six times. Would highly recommend using a leveler, because you'll be wrestling with a beast just to clear the firewall or aligning it to the motor mounts.

Take it from experience as others have said or learn the hard way.

 

removing doesn't need a leveler.. please.. and as far as a chain it doesn't matter, as long as its short enough to where the hoist can bring the engine above the radiator support

 

Get a leveler. $32 at Harbor Freight. You will save yourself a major headache. I just pulled my motor and trans a month ago and don't see how I could have done it without the leveler.

 

I did my pull and reinstall without a leveler. I did not pull the trans with the motor also. You can get all the transmission bolts easily between the manifold's and the firewall. I also jacked up the front of my transmission so the motor slide right out and in like butter!

 

i took mine out, by myself, noone helping, without a leveler. I put a chain from the 2 hoops and hooked it to my hoist but lopsided it so it was higher on the front. I raised the front of my car WAY up and left the back on the ground and she slid right out and right back in no problems. Ive never used a leveler and i bet it is easier, but its not difficult to do it without a leveler in my opinion. maybe im a hillbilly.

 

From the info that I've been reading, most people have the front of the car lower than the back end(wheels off). I think this was for the tight clearnace of the factory motor mounts? I'm planning on doing my own McMasterCarr poly mounts. I don't think that they'll be any problem with the mounting bolts on the way in? This is my first rotary pull so I'm still wet behind the ears.

There are about four wire harness connector at the rear of tranny. Do these have to be disconnected or does it come out with the main harness?

I've disconnected the banjo for the P/S, is the other one that needs to be disconnected below the P/S res tank?

Thanks, Jay

 

I used a 1 1/2 ton cherry picker hoist with a leveler just like in the pics from sbnrx7. Buy the leveler you will glad you did so. I needed it and I pulled my motor w/o the tranny. I would think with the tranny it is a must. the length of the chain depends on if you use a leveler and how high your ceiling or garage door is?

 

You can take out the 3 bolts on each of the motor mounts on the left and right. You can disconnect the sensor on the trans when the motor and trans is almost out of the car. They are attached to the main harness so if your sliding your harness into the engine bay and you want to pull it out with all the sensor connected you can do that, just make sure to disconnect everything from the electrical harness on the drivers side of the car.

 

i pulled my engine and tranny as one without a leveler... jesus christ its a pain in the ***....

 

There ya go.....it's very simple to understand, get the right tools for the job and the job goes smoothly. Sure I can take out that Altenator with a pair of channellocks, but I prefer a 3/8" ratchet with a short extension and two 6 points - 12mm and a 14mm.




Later

 

Jetlag,
Follow this link

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html

It's a step by step process to removing the FD engine. I printed it out and checked things off as I went along. It covers everything. Follow it and you won't miss anything.

Steve

 

Well, I got everything disconnected for the pull and ran into a snag/snap. While pulling the motor out, one of the front bracket bolt snapped. I'm not sure what you call it, the bracket that's next to the alternator, it has two 12mm size bolt head. Now I'm down to just one holding the bracket.

a. should I just go for it and pray that the other bolt will hold?
b. remove the bracket and find a stronger bolt, and just bolt it to the chain?
c. is there another lifting point at the front that I can use to lift the motor?

Thanks, Jay

 

Jetlag,
I could give you a whole engineering explanation on the forces the bolts are exposed too during a pull but will spare you from the details and tell you this...
It takes several thousands and thousands of pounds of force to cause one of these bolts to fail either in shear or tension. If one of yours has failed during this pull then something else has taken place such as corrosion, which may have affected both. It's hard to tell from the pic. Pull the remaining bolt and inspect it for corrosion or cracks where the bolt head and shaft meet. If at all questionable replace the bolt and move on. It's better than having it out of the car and breaking and watching your engine hit the floor or your car.

Also, looking at the top picture, you have not disconnected everything for and engine pull. For starters, your oil lines to the oil cooler are still hooked up, etc...unless the pic is from when you started to unhook everything, then ignore this sentence.

Steve

 

sbnrx7,

I think it a combination of corrosion, fatigue, and cheap grade bolts. Those two bolt have never been remove by me personally. As far as I can tell, it's been on for 13 years. I understand that the bolts are rated at the longitually, by grades 1-10.9, and that's the automotive grading system is infurior to AN standards.
I got this info from reading a book called Prepard To Win. The problem is, you can't find AN rated bolts/nuts in meteric.
Well, I guess I'll just remove the bolt and try to find a beef up one.

Oh, the oil lines, cross bar, and other stuff was removed prior to the pull.

 

I got the motor out today by using the space between the front iron and the a/c bracket. I simply feed the chain between that opening and it was a tight fit

 

Good deal. Glad you got it out. BTW it's been a little unclear as to weather you were pulling the engine and tranny or just the engine alone.