motor mount ?
#28
Originally posted by damian
by the way, you hage a pic that shows the height difference of bryans mounts, why is that?
by the way, you hage a pic that shows the height difference of bryans mounts, why is that?
Last edited by mks; 03-06-03 at 04:01 AM.
#31
Tequila? ..it's like beer
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I thought about emailing him about it.. another aluminum cup would look a lot better than a home depot washer..
Originally posted by damian
newbernd, great info and great mount type explaination
i wonder if we can get bryan to make a version with this kind of fix included
newbernd, great info and great mount type explaination
i wonder if we can get bryan to make a version with this kind of fix included
#32
how hard is the urethane that Rotor motorsports is using? I was thinking of going with 60 shore A, which is similar to a tire. or 80 which is harder yet, but i don't want to go with anything harder than I need to have.
heck, it's $54 for 6" of urethane from McMaster-Carr (almost $10 per inch ). so if it doesn't work, i'll just order the stock mounts, and if it does i'll save nearly $200 for something more fun
heck, it's $54 for 6" of urethane from McMaster-Carr (almost $10 per inch ). so if it doesn't work, i'll just order the stock mounts, and if it does i'll save nearly $200 for something more fun
Last edited by ISUposs; 03-06-03 at 10:44 AM.
#33
Tequila? ..it's like beer
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It's definitely firmer than that. A lot closer to the hockey pucks. If you had a similar type of aluminum cup to shield them, you could probably just stack 3 pucks on top of each other and make mounts for $8 plus the cost of a bolt.
#35
Originally posted by Garrett
RotorSports Racing, not Rotor motorsports, get the name right. Rotor motorsports doesn't even exist anymore.
RotorSports Racing, not Rotor motorsports, get the name right. Rotor motorsports doesn't even exist anymore.
#36
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Yeah, since Bryan's my mechanic I feel obligated to make the distinction. No problem though.
And yep, those scoundrels over at Rotor motorsports caused alot of grief and another reason why the confusion of names should be corrected.
Garrett
And yep, those scoundrels over at Rotor motorsports caused alot of grief and another reason why the confusion of names should be corrected.
Garrett
#37
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If your car is going to be street driven, I highly recommend purchasing the stock ones. I've driven a FD with the rotor sports racing mounts and they transmit way too much vibration at low rpms. Might as well get solid alum mounts.
I had a few broken motor mounts and decided to make my own. I was planning to a mount similar to design as the rotor sports racing mounts but all my designs require a soild shaft though the urethane. This would transmit vibration.
If you are super cheap you can use a FC mount with some modifications. I took a FC mount which are relatvely cheap and abundent. Modified the broken FD bracket with a mill and drill a center hole for the stud. Then slightly cut the FC metal cup around the mount on each side so the retaining strap would fit.
I've tested the mount and there is much less vibration than the rotor sports. I can't comment on the durability yet as it's only been a few months. I think I have some pictures of it completed.
Btw, the drivers side motor mounts have been redesigned by mazda. The newer ones are steel rather than alum. and the rubber seems beefier.
-Jeff
I had a few broken motor mounts and decided to make my own. I was planning to a mount similar to design as the rotor sports racing mounts but all my designs require a soild shaft though the urethane. This would transmit vibration.
If you are super cheap you can use a FC mount with some modifications. I took a FC mount which are relatvely cheap and abundent. Modified the broken FD bracket with a mill and drill a center hole for the stud. Then slightly cut the FC metal cup around the mount on each side so the retaining strap would fit.
I've tested the mount and there is much less vibration than the rotor sports. I can't comment on the durability yet as it's only been a few months. I think I have some pictures of it completed.
Btw, the drivers side motor mounts have been redesigned by mazda. The newer ones are steel rather than alum. and the rubber seems beefier.
-Jeff
#38
i think i'm gonna try making my own. material is yet to be decided. the way i look at it is that i have much to gain and only a little bit to lose by at least attempting to make my own. if they transmit too much vibration or otherwise suck, i'll order new OEM ones and be out $100 max. thanks for everyone's help.
i'll let you know how it turns out too
i'll let you know how it turns out too
#39
UPDATE!!
ok, well i decided to order some urethane from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/ ). I went with 80 shore A polyurethane. part number: 8784K98
pics of my old drivers mount:
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-29_jpg.htm
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-74_jpg.htm
pics of my new mounts:
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-73_jpg.htm
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-72_jpg.htm
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-71_jpg.htm
Impressions:
I only have a couple hundred (highway) miles on these mounts, so i can't comment too much. they definately stiffen up shifting. people always said how engine torque braces stiffened up shifting and I thought they were crazy, i realize that i am wrong!!
I can feel the starter engage through my steering wheel!! dont't know if that's good or bad
I get some vibration at idle and if it kinda lugs from a start.
Future:
I'm gonna make a few changes in the next couple of weeks. first, i'm going to try what nebernd did and see if that reduces vibrations. I also need to add some spacers on the top between the steel belt and the motor mount. kinda hard to explain, but maybe i'll get under there and take some pics this weekend.
Overall, so far, I'd recommend it if you can stand a little vibration. it cost me all of $60 plus a few 3/8" bolts and hardware. Definately a do-able mod if you have access to a bandsaw, wire wheel, and a drill (a lathe would be best for drilling the hole, but a drill or drill press would work)
pics of my old drivers mount:
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-29_jpg.htm
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-74_jpg.htm
pics of my new mounts:
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-73_jpg.htm
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-72_jpg.htm
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...eak-71_jpg.htm
Impressions:
I only have a couple hundred (highway) miles on these mounts, so i can't comment too much. they definately stiffen up shifting. people always said how engine torque braces stiffened up shifting and I thought they were crazy, i realize that i am wrong!!
I can feel the starter engage through my steering wheel!! dont't know if that's good or bad
I get some vibration at idle and if it kinda lugs from a start.
Future:
I'm gonna make a few changes in the next couple of weeks. first, i'm going to try what nebernd did and see if that reduces vibrations. I also need to add some spacers on the top between the steel belt and the motor mount. kinda hard to explain, but maybe i'll get under there and take some pics this weekend.
Overall, so far, I'd recommend it if you can stand a little vibration. it cost me all of $60 plus a few 3/8" bolts and hardware. Definately a do-able mod if you have access to a bandsaw, wire wheel, and a drill (a lathe would be best for drilling the hole, but a drill or drill press would work)
Last edited by ISUposs; 03-27-03 at 11:14 PM.
#41
I Sold My Car 2 the Devil
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ISU do you have any tips for doing the bushings on the frontend...? sorry I was flipping through your pics!
Looks good to me! (engine bushings)
-R
Looks good to me! (engine bushings)
-R
#42
Originally posted by wonder1and
ISU do you have any tips for doing the bushings on the frontend...? sorry I was flipping through your pics!
Looks good to me! (engine bushings)
-R
ISU do you have any tips for doing the bushings on the frontend...? sorry I was flipping through your pics!
Looks good to me! (engine bushings)
-R
If you were thinking about saving some money and making bushings, read on.
I made my bushings modeled similar to jim's bushings. I ordered the materials, once again from McMaster-Carr. the nylon was pretty cheap. If i were to do it again, i probably would leave the little shoulder off and just center the bushing when i pressed it in (like i did on the diff bushings). that could have cut down on the lathe time considerably. also, using a more machining friendly metal than SS would be a bonus. I'm thinking of brass due to it's decent corrosion resistance and machinability (if that's a word).
now I can say that I know why Jim/N-tech get so much for these bushings, they are a pain to make
Last edited by ISUposs; 03-28-03 at 02:06 AM.
#45
DragonFly
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another question, cant you just use another (but much thinner cut) 'waffer' of the same material and use that on the bottom, where new nebernd puts the hocky puck? this accounts for the 'pull' vibration, correct?
for example, use a 3" section as the main mount (like you did), then use a 1" section underneath, between the mount bolt and frame.
or is 80 shore still to tough for the pull vibration dampening?
nebernd....any more updates on your hocky puck mod?
for example, use a 3" section as the main mount (like you did), then use a 1" section underneath, between the mount bolt and frame.
or is 80 shore still to tough for the pull vibration dampening?
nebernd....any more updates on your hocky puck mod?
Last edited by damian; 03-28-03 at 03:16 AM.
#46
i don't know if the bands are still required, i just put them in because they aren't really in the way and they offer me a little piece of mind.
that's what i'm going to try. I have a 1" thick hunk of uerethane left over that i'll make the bottom piece out of. i'm going to take a hole saw and cut out a couple of 1-1.5" circles. i'll probably keep them under an inch in length. I don't want too much hanging out in case it deforms too much.
cant you just use another (but much thinner cut) 'waffer' of the same material and use that on the bottom, where new nebernd puts the hocky puck?