3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Maybe Idle Problem?

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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 02:16 AM
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NorthwindHost's Avatar
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From: Lynbrook, NY
Maybe Idle Problem?

Here are the mods done to the car.

3 Inch Downpipe
Pettit Exhaust
AST By-Pass
Hi-Flow Cat
New Vacuum Lines

Now the car idles at about 1000 - 1100 RPM after it does its Accelerated Start-up.

Now I heard it should even go lower then that? Should I expect it too?

Its a 93 by the way.

Also the car runs pretty hott. I was gonna replace the OEM Air Intake with Aftermarkets and a new Radiator but wanted to get some suggestions is this is the right course of action. I might also get a new IC while I am replacing the Rad.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 02:16 AM
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From: Lynbrook, NY
Also, does anyone know where I can get these items cheaper then rx7store?

Thanks
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 02:38 PM
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From: Roseville, CA
I think you should do your Intake, Radiator and intercooler .. all are good and help your car breathe ... I like the RX7 store but you can check around with rx7.com , srmotorsports, m2, there are a bunch ...
I was running really hot for a while .. check your oil cooler you can see it from the front bumper .. mine was all smashed flat .. I replaced it and cooled my car down pretty good .. if it looks bad replace it or take a flat head screwdriver to it and try to open the fins back up or go to dual oil coolers.

Just a thought
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 02:43 PM
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From: StL
1000-1000rpm idle isnt bad @ all for ur car. IMO, id just drive it like that, but if you want the "correct" 850 idle ( i think thats what stock is ) the easiest fix is the little screw on the front of the TB. back that out a few turns and it should bring it down.
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 02:54 PM
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From: Weaverville, NC
Originally posted by teamstealth
1000-1000rpm idle isnt bad @ all for ur car. IMO, id just drive it like that, but if you want the "correct" 850 idle ( i think thats what stock is ) the easiest fix is the little screw on the front of the TB. back that out a few turns and it should bring it down.
The "proper" idle adjustment (assuming none of the systems that can affect idle are incorrect) is the large, inset screw on the driver's side of the throttle body, under the intake elbow. It's hard to see without a mirror, but it's easy to reach with a stubby, wide-blade screwdriver.

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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 11:30 PM
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From: Lynbrook, NY
well, I can live with the 1K RPM idle, but why keep it that high if it can go lower? =)
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 12:29 AM
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From: Dodgers
any pictures of this "screw"?
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 10:20 AM
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From: Weaverville, NC
Originally posted by Palumbo1337
any pictures of this "screw"?
For it's location, see page A-10 or F-17 of the shop manual. Also, on in the middle of page F-79 there's a presentation of the throttle body that shows it, though it's not labeled. It's the larger circle at the very bottom of the throttle body, just to the right of the 6:00 o'clock position in the diagram.

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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 11:09 AM
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From: Lynbrook, NY
Thank You.

Let me go take a look at it now.
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 11:18 AM
  #10  
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From: Weaverville, NC
Originally posted by NorthwindHost
Thank You.

Let me go take a look at it now.
Be sure to turn off all electrical loads and jumper the TEN pin to GND on the diagnostic connect (equivalent to connecting the SST you probably don't have) when adjusting the idle with the AAS. (Pages F-16 and F-17).

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