The porting will allow the engine to get more air and fuel this is not a bad thing. I did't say get a bridgeport smart ass. And yes I think a mild streetport could help the temps of the motor stay down with all that fuel being pumped in there.

I just fu_king said the same thing about the midpipe. I said if you are ever gonna use a midpipe just have the wastegate ported now. What if he wants a midpipe in a couple years? take out everything and pay 1k labor? he asked what he should do while the motor is out

the stock radiator is fine unless the end tanks break. If it is dirty take it out and clean it and fix all of the fins flush the coolant and put it back. you can also route more air to the radiator by taping off around it where the air escapes.

If he is running all these mods I think a pfc or any other upgraded computer is a reliability mod. what if he over boosts one night that will save his ass if it is conservitively tuned.

You are right about one thing. This thread had tons of good and bad advise and you are not superman everyone has an opinion and your opinions are not fact.
In previous threads where I was learning in subjects that I didn't know about, I read your posts and thought that they were helpful and sounded like they were 100% correct because of your cocky attitute (also displayed here.) I may have to relearn that stuff since your image has been hurt in my eyes because your last couple posts are shit.

Porting the motor letting more air and fuel in makes it reliable? To me that means more heat. More power=more heat. I'm not seeing it as a reliability mod, ever. More power out of the same block, going through the same radiator, I'm not seeing temps drop.

On the PFC, I think I need to add some info here to modify what I said. By itself it isn't a reliability mod. Base maps are leaner than stock and from what research Wade has done on stock vs PFC. It doesn't retard timing through the stock knock sensor and the timing might be advanced (?). Properly tuned with mods then I'll agree it is a reliability mod. You don't need a PFC to tinker with the fans coming on sooner. You can do the fan mod and/or get the Miata temp sender.


A stock FD with just a couple of "mods" is probably the most reliable FD out there. This is my "short list". I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but the list of reliability mods is short IMHO.

Aluminum AST (stock ones split)
DP (everyone knows the heat issue with the Pre-cat)
Stock T-stat fails frequently, stock guage won't reveal it so either do the linearization mod or get a temp gauge
Run stock boost
Dump the stock plastic crossover pipe and get an Efini y-pipe. Or at least upgrade the hose closest to the turbo with a silicone one.
Vacuum lines, don't tinker with them unless your working on the solenoid rack or having boost issues. While replacing them on a functioning system most guys will break solenoids and glue them back together, not reliability mods.
Don't let the car sit and idle (most conditions) to cool down, drive off boost for the last few miles. The car idling will actually warm up without the fans running.


Artguy, the stock turbos are reliable at stock boost levels. When people start cranking up the boost then they'll start to become a weak link.

I don't give a crap about my "image", if you don't want to hear the truth then just ignore me:). Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. The only difference is I base my opinion on engineering knowledge and from working with over a dozen FDs over the past 4yrs. I'm not a tuner, they have modded and worked on more FDs. The difference is I'm not trying to sell you anything at the same time. But I can still be wrong.

Do a search on my name, see where I post. This is what I know, not single turbos, not PFC forum, not the lounge. I KNOW stock and bolt-on modded FDs.


Jeff
Postin' crap day and night.
No flames, just info.

speaking of thermostats, is there an aftermarket one that opens at a lower temp, but doesn't greatly increase warm up time?

Do what? Then what is the purpose of a turbo timer? I don't have one and this would make my life alot easier than sitting for a couple minutes letting it cool. Normal driving I HARDLY ever get into boost, do I even let it idle? :confused:

IMHO don't let it idle. If your not into boost then just shut if off when you park. Buy an aftermarket oil and water temp guage, watch temps climb when parked, no airflow over rad and oil cooler(s), no airflow over the exhaust/turbos either, temps rise.

Drive off boost for the last mile or two, shut it right off. It has worked for me...

Jeff

First I would like to thank all those that have contributed to this thread in a positive manner. I would especially like to thank artguy (thanks jason!), turbojeff, black99, mahjik and redrotorR1.

Here is what I plan on doing:

Mild streetport with whatever seals the engine builder reccomends. Since he is the one doing the porting and building, I feel that he is the best position to inform me on what is best.

I will be going with the PFC for fuel management along with my 255 pump (which will be upgraded to the supra TT pump in near future). Also I plan to run 1300cc secondary injectors. This will leave me with some room for future mods.

The turbo situation is going to be taken care of by BNRsupercars. I am going to get my stockers rebuilt and WG ported at the same time.

All filters will be changed and all fluids will be aswell. The T-Stat will be replaced along with both radiator hoses. All silicone hoses will go in place of the old coolant and vaccuum lines. I am still looking for opinions on Evans coolant. Do you guys think it is worth it? Its pretty expensive stuff.

I have a fluidyne radiator and pettit ast already, so those will go in for sure.

I have TEIN Type HA Coilovers already, so suspension is ok for me now. If I plan on doing serious roadracing down the line I will consider maybe some swaybars and things of that nature. As of right now, my coilovers will do me just fine :).

I have APEXi Power Intake right now, along with a 3" SS polished DP and HKS Hiper CB. I am thinking of selling the Apexi intakes and maybe going with the M2 CAI.

I am looking at getting the HKS Type S FMIC (still havn't decided between that and the m2 large smic) and the Blitz SBC-ID. I know the Blitz unit is expensive, however I have heard nothing but great things about it and this time I am sparing no expense.

As for polishing stuff while the engine is out...I don't really think I need to be spending any money on making things shiny at the moment. The only things I care about having noticeable are my tail lights :wavey:

The oil coolers are something I can do whenever, so right now they aren't a priority. I guess later down the line I may add a giant single cooler (probably won't though)

As for looks...Only thing thats gonna be on the FD is a '99 spec front lip, stock R1 rear spoiler, some rims and a nice new Special Edition Titanium Grey (25G) paint job.

All in all thats pretty much the layout for my entire car. Lol, I guess I got kinda carried away and left you with a little more than just engine parts. Hehe. Well thanks again guys! I will be sure to keep you up to date on whats happening with the car. Take it easy.

- Danny

sounds great...

an intercooler to consider is the new rotary reliability and racing intercooler they are putting together...its cheaper than the m2 large by 250 bucks and is about the same size and capacity...the inlet hood has better fitment from what I have heard...ask louis about it...I love my m2 large...fmic makes more heat by blocking the radiator...heat bad...heat very bad.

:)


j

I agree it sounds like a good plan. Lots of good stuff in there without getting too carried away.

BTW: How's that HKS Hiper catback? I know it's one of the cheaper ones available and one of the only in the $300.00 range, any opinions?

About this thread: Nobody ever agrees totally 100% on anything on this forum, so take everyones opinion of what's best to do and use them to make a decision on what you think is important and what mods you want to do, and btw it sounds like you did that.

I believe(key word being believe) that either M2 or Pettit sells a lower temp thermostat, at least I was told that by someone but I never really checked it out. I believe it was one of those two companys but you would probably have to call and ask. You might also try asking racing beat.

The t-stat opens at 170 right? But if I'm correct I think pettit sells one that opens at 160, all I know is that it opens 10 degrees sooner I believe.

Btw Cetchup, who's doing your rebuild?

i just modified my thermostat to be always opened.

How'd you do that? I bet it keeps the temps down like crazy. I might go to Autotech on saturday and see if they have and install a water temp gauge for me.

A thermostat aids in warmup and keeps the car from running too cold as well. I am in Colorado, so this is more of an issue here.

Your car won't run very well if it can't get warm enough, either...

im aware of the purpose of the thermostat...

1) i dont live in an area where it gets cold enough for the thermostat to ever close again.

2) the car still warms up quickly. probably because its a rotary

3) your from colorado. i lived in NY with a ported thermostat on an old car. and yes i see your point. on below freezing day the car would take forever to warm up.. and once driving the temp gauge would drop from the middle all the way below cold again.

4) the way i drive it.... plus sitting in Cali traffic.. the engine will never get too cold.

5) i also did it for my piece of mind.. with everyone always concerned about overheating.. getting too hot.. i like to know my coolant is always circulating... especially in southern cali.

Sure, I understand all that. A cool day here (not below freezing) is enough to cause the temp to drop unacceptably low. Running a cold rotary hard is also bad for the engine.

I also wouldn't want the Double Throttle to start closing again.

you can disconnect the vacuum line that closes the double throttle valves so they're always open.

I agree completely with what Jeff Hoskinson has said so far. This is the List wisdom tralking here.:cool:

I would one more thing - I would prop open the hood after coming home if you are parking in a garage. It will prevent heat sink'ing all the components underhood. I do this with all my cars.