key hole light and ignition switch light staying on again...
Thread Starter
Constant threat
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 39
From: near Wichita, Kansas
key hole light and ignition switch light staying on again...
For the life of me I don't know why this happens. 
I went to start the car a few days ago (when it was 65 degrees out, now it is 7 degrees, lol!) and the battery was dead. So I charged it and I noticed that once again, the keyhole light in the door and the ignition switch light are staying on constantly, thus draining the battery.
I had this happen before and it eventually just...stopped and went away.
One has to assume that something in the ECU is confused, but I can't get it to clear by disconnecting the battery and depressing the brake pedal.
Any other ideas?
Stock ECU, by the way.
I went to start the car a few days ago (when it was 65 degrees out, now it is 7 degrees, lol!) and the battery was dead. So I charged it and I noticed that once again, the keyhole light in the door and the ignition switch light are staying on constantly, thus draining the battery.
I had this happen before and it eventually just...stopped and went away.
One has to assume that something in the ECU is confused, but I can't get it to clear by disconnecting the battery and depressing the brake pedal.
Any other ideas?
Stock ECU, by the way.
Does the interior light stay on as well (if you have the interior light set to come on with the door open). If so, check out the door switch in the base of the door opening. The car "thinks" a door is open. I have seen the switch get knocked about before.
I noticed the ignition light stays on for a long time...
As well as my keyhole light.
I ended up disconnected the keyhole bulb and swapping an led into the ignition switch.
Not the best fix...
As well as my keyhole light.
I ended up disconnected the keyhole bulb and swapping an led into the ignition switch.
Not the best fix...
I had a similar problem a few years back but the door buzzer stay on as well barely audible. Turned out to be a short in ECU No. 2 Part #67-560B
I fixed by cleaning up the burnt path and a little solder on the arc point. It would not hurt to check?
I fixed by cleaning up the burnt path and a little solder on the arc point. It would not hurt to check?
10-8-10-8
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 848
Likes: 12
From: Australia
Yep, there is something about CPU #2 in this.
I have looked into it a few years ago (and I have a diagram where I was tracing it, somewhere on my other laptop at home) but the key hole door light is connected via CPU #2 to the ignition barrel light.
I think logic is that you approach the car in the dark, lift the outer door handle. This then brings the car out of 'sleep mode' and activates the key hole light, so you can see where to insert the key and avoid scratching the door handle paint.
This also activates the ignition barrel light inside the car, as the next logical step once you unlock it, is to get in and insert key into the ignition, so that illuminates as well.
I can test this theory on my stock car by walking up to it at night and lifting the door handle. Both ignition barrel and door keyhole lights do come on.
They should self extinguish at about 5 minutes or so (dont quote me on that time) to prevent draining the battery. The timer to turn the ignition barrel light and door keyhole lights off, resides inside CPU #2. That is your big clue.
Most likely CPU #2 needs replacing or opening and fixing. If you replace it, be sure to note what is written on it- it will have a white factory paint marking of F100 or F101 stamped on the body of the module somewhere. Be sure to get another CPU #2 that has the same number series as what you have. IE replace an F100 with an F100, F101 with an F101.
There are plug differences between the two, I am pretty sure.
*******Below here is more detailed info on what the F--- numbers mean**************
This denotes the 'line' of the individual car- how base spec or luxury spec it is. As it was explained to me, the body module F--- number in a base car will be F100.
F1 being a common factory Mazda code for body.
Next two digits represent the spec package of the car.
00 is base spec, no cruise control or leather or any of that jazz. Just a basic RX7 as cheap as you could order.
01 is something like PEP/R2 with cruise control, leather, sunroof, etc.
F107 is something like a 2001 Spirit R
F108 2000+ RZ, etc.
My rule of thumb for picking parts with F numbers on them is that the higher the number, the more desirable spec the car was. IE F100, part likely came out of a base model. F107, likely came out of a Spirit R or RZ or Bathurst vehicle or something more upspec.
I have found that the F--- number logic appears to apply to all FD RX7s, regardless of USA, Australia, Europe or Japan manufacture. It seems to have been a global thing that Mazda did. I am willing to bet that the vast majority of USA delivered RX7s will use body modules and components marked either F100 or F101.
Wow I got sidetracked.
I have looked into it a few years ago (and I have a diagram where I was tracing it, somewhere on my other laptop at home) but the key hole door light is connected via CPU #2 to the ignition barrel light.
I think logic is that you approach the car in the dark, lift the outer door handle. This then brings the car out of 'sleep mode' and activates the key hole light, so you can see where to insert the key and avoid scratching the door handle paint.
This also activates the ignition barrel light inside the car, as the next logical step once you unlock it, is to get in and insert key into the ignition, so that illuminates as well.
I can test this theory on my stock car by walking up to it at night and lifting the door handle. Both ignition barrel and door keyhole lights do come on.
They should self extinguish at about 5 minutes or so (dont quote me on that time) to prevent draining the battery. The timer to turn the ignition barrel light and door keyhole lights off, resides inside CPU #2. That is your big clue.
Most likely CPU #2 needs replacing or opening and fixing. If you replace it, be sure to note what is written on it- it will have a white factory paint marking of F100 or F101 stamped on the body of the module somewhere. Be sure to get another CPU #2 that has the same number series as what you have. IE replace an F100 with an F100, F101 with an F101.
There are plug differences between the two, I am pretty sure.
*******Below here is more detailed info on what the F--- numbers mean**************
This denotes the 'line' of the individual car- how base spec or luxury spec it is. As it was explained to me, the body module F--- number in a base car will be F100.
F1 being a common factory Mazda code for body.
Next two digits represent the spec package of the car.
00 is base spec, no cruise control or leather or any of that jazz. Just a basic RX7 as cheap as you could order.
01 is something like PEP/R2 with cruise control, leather, sunroof, etc.
F107 is something like a 2001 Spirit R
F108 2000+ RZ, etc.
My rule of thumb for picking parts with F numbers on them is that the higher the number, the more desirable spec the car was. IE F100, part likely came out of a base model. F107, likely came out of a Spirit R or RZ or Bathurst vehicle or something more upspec.
I have found that the F--- number logic appears to apply to all FD RX7s, regardless of USA, Australia, Europe or Japan manufacture. It seems to have been a global thing that Mazda did. I am willing to bet that the vast majority of USA delivered RX7s will use body modules and components marked either F100 or F101.
Wow I got sidetracked.
