Hey all,
I still have my 1500 rpm idle and am about to replace the ISC. While I'm at it should I replace anything else? Also to give you back ground on the problem..

I've adjusted all mechanical adjustments on the throttle. The thing is the engine just WANTS to idle at 1500 because if I pull the idle adjusting screw all out the arm will not move past the 1500 position even w/out the screw to stop it. My wax rod does not seperate, but when I pull the wax rod out "making it seperate", again that arm stays in the 1500 rpm range. I've also checked the air adjusting screw and it's all in. I know that the ISC is a common problem with high idles but other solenoids could cause the problem as well, is there anyway of knowing exactly which one other than a hunch and actually pulling them out and checking with Ohm meter? I have also sprayed all readily available vac lines with carb cleaner and no idle variations (and I checked for random vac lines not being attached to anything.

SOOOO, I'm planing on replacing the vac lines sometime in the near future so I guess my question is would it make more sense to do both at once? My car, 1993 original engine 65K, stock.

 

Also, I've seen people make reference to unpluging the ISC and running the car. Is that easy enough to do without taking parts off? If it is recommended to diagnose, should I unplug with engine running, or shut it off, unplug, then turn on?

 

Did you look at the troubleshooting section of the FSM for high idle?

Why do you think the ISC is a common problem with high idles? It's controlled by the ECU, which means your problem could be stemming from anything connected to the ECU.

 

The manual specifically states if you have a steady 1500 rpm idle it is either the AWS or ISC solenoids but states also for ISC the idle will hunt, which mine does under no electrical load. If I turn on my lights or AC the idle is steady at 1500. If you think I'm missing something please let me know

 

Actually the shop that I was looking thru today more than just the isc or aws they mentinon injectors wax rod and the E/L unit, power steering switch, and so on but u really have pin point what procedures u have done so far and start the elimated the process.

 

I guess the best way to find out is to see if the ECU is throwing a code. The search function isn't working right now so I'll ask here. How exactly to you pull the ECU codes? I know Autozone will do it but what else works inexpensively? My buddy has one to pull OBD II but that wont work right..

 

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/engine_codes.html

 

Thanks Mahjik.

No codes! Correct me if I'm wrong but I would get a code if the solenoids are fried. But if they are just not getting the proper signal through the lines then I'll get a screwed up idle? (I also have a weird boost pattern 13-8-5rising to 10 with a transition of 4500) So this weekend I guess I'll spend inspecting all of those lines. Any suggestions on how to more quickly pin point the problem instead of checking every line? I figure I'll check prespool and wastegate first.