I thought I had remember you saying this weekend thats why, my bad.

 

what he said

 

we are checkin on material costs right now so I dont know cost yet, but i do know that we want to be well under the 800-1000 mark that I have seen in other aftermarket versions of CF underpanels.

 

Here are pics of our prototype template made out of aluminum:

before the undertray was installed, notice the massive gaps ont eh edges of the nose and by the oilpan:


this is what it looks like after we attached the prototype to my nose and body, notice the nice full


another shot


more of the coverage


this is a shot of how it acts as a front splitter also


more front splitter view


a shot of the temp mounting points, we talked about the final mounting points probably being in the same place as the stock undertray

 

looks good, you should also use the two connecting pins to the bumper/rebar to keep the lip from catching and being pulled down

 

...by the way, it was on the car at BIR today and felt great at 160+ at the end of the straight, and according to a passenger who was looking at the speedo (i ususally dont look during this time...hehehe...im busy making sure we dont fly off track)...he said he saw 155 through turn one!!! anyway, the car felt great (i passed a lamborghini gallardo, there will be a video on that later, heheheh)... anyway, I'll keep you updated on matrials/cost

 

huh? i dont have a stock rebar for my mz gtc nose, instead there are 2 lbrackets it attaches too, and those bolts also pass through the underpanel, making it very ridgid

i have no idea the spot ur talkign about?

 

Damian if you need to every use my car for fitment either for the cwest front or anything else in the future just let me know, i'd be happy to let you use it. The rest of the kit is going on this weekend and plan on having it painted before August 21 for the Autovations car show. I think i would be pretty interested in the undertray depending on if/when i can afford it.

 

Being that you have a vented hood, the new undertray should help immensely at reducing lift in the front. Now you have to make a dedicated ducting from the radiator straight up to the vents. BTW, I bought the same hood you did.


I think Mazda purposely left that big gap b/w the plastic undertray and the oil pan for extraction of heat from the engine bay.

 

The undertray should be made of Aluminum so that it can withstand abuses on the street.

 

cool, yeah i may call you up for a cwest test fit at some point.

 

too heavy when its as think as it needs to be for rigidity, plus carbon fiber or other crazy material is cooler :-)

 

Well, what about thin plywood? The F1 cars back in the 80's used some type of wood bottom.

 

>>Being that you have a vented hood, the new undertray should help immensely at reducing lift in the front.

yeah, thats the plan, and the front acts as a air splitter helping even more

>> Now you have to make a dedicated ducting from the radiator straight up to the vents.

dont really need to at this point, the combo of undertray/radiator ducting i did made the pfc see 101c at its peak during a hard 20 min session at BIR with 80+ degree outside temp..... thats pretty cool (pun intended)....ill post more detailson that later

>> BTW, I bought the same hood you did.

it has really grown on me, gets lots of attention, and does its deal, vents the hot goods out


>>I think Mazda purposely left that big gap b/w the plastic undertray and the oil pan for extraction of heat from the engine bay.[/QUOTE]

yeah, there was also some speculation about air going over the oil pan for heat removal, i think a lot of that stuff is arguable in dif directions, but for this application i am more interested in the front aero

 

i though that was only to check if the rubbing on the ground went to far? hahahah

 

here is the scoop only plywood from my guru:

***

the plywood is a composite material called jabrock. Its wood and resin and other secret stuff so it does not way much more than carbon fiber and has a low coefficient of friction so that it slides when the car bottoms out. The reason they use it, and they still do, is so the officials can tell if the ride height changes under load during the race. If the piece is thinner than a certain number at the end of the race it means the car was to low and was scraping the ground. If used for a splitter the leading edge will still chip like plywood, aluminum will still bend if it touches anything, and composites will crack if hit hard enough. There is no perfect material; the best way for it to last is not to hit anything.

***

 

Bump for more info.

 

the latest update is that we are going to take the aluminum prototype and use it as a template to make a CF version (or some other crazy material)

that final prototype will be used for test fits on other noses, ill keep the thread updated

 

Hey after BIR it showed no stress cracks or anything? 160mph?! nice nice. I see you noticed a difference in temps too.

 

yeah, the undertray/front splitter was intact and temps stayed nice and low

 

is 101 C a good temperature for track?
how much does it cost?

 

101 isnt too scary yet as long as the cooling system is healthy...

cost is relative to what clubs that run events want to charge.

 

update
I have a large sheet of teklam (http://www.teklam.com/) on the way, its pretty cool styff, 1/4 thick, 2 ply fiberglass skins with nomex honeycomb core. I wanted to go carbon fiber skins but it was to much $$ and the gains were minimal, although with unlimited funds carbon fiber skins would be ideal, a bit lighter and stronger.

Anyway, the material should arrive in a few weeks and I'll take the aluminum ogg, use it as the template and make a new one out of the teklam stuff and see how it goes. It should weight like 1/4 the aluminum one, I'll get exact figure and post them.

 

interested in the undertray.

But shouldn't you do something about
getting access to the oil pan/drain??
Removing that tray everytime to do an oil change
gonna be a serious PITA.

any rough idea on prices??

 

Damian, any range at all in price. Also the first lets say "set" that your making are for what type of bumper? Good luck!