Ignition switch light help?
Hey guys well today I was trying to custom fit a little bulb into the ignition switch because who ever had the car before removed it and never put a new one in. Well as I started to mess with it I herd a sound that sounded exactly like when a fuse blows so I thought I blew the fuse for it and I searched for the fuse in the fuse conpartment but no luck. So then I hoped out the car for a second or two and then went to get back in and notice that my door handle keyhole light went out. So then that’s when it pop into my head that the sound I heard had to do something with both the door handle keyhole light and the ignition switch light. Do any of you guys know if there a fuse somewhere or something like that and also do you know what to replace the ignition switch light bulb with?
10A Fuse that I think is labeled ROOM. As far as the bulb...don't recall off the top of my head. Just bring it into a Auto Zone or call Ray Crowe.
But if that fuse popped, then your dome, rear cargo and spot lights should be out too.
You probably just popped that lamp if the others are still on.
But if that fuse popped, then your dome, rear cargo and spot lights should be out too.
You probably just popped that lamp if the others are still on.
10A Fuse that I think is labeled ROOM. As far as the bulb...don't recall off the top of my head. Just bring it into a Auto Zone or call Ray Crowe.
But if that fuse popped, then your dome, rear cargo and spot lights should be out too.
You probably just popped that lamp if the others are still on.
But if that fuse popped, then your dome, rear cargo and spot lights should be out too.
You probably just popped that lamp if the others are still on.
How did you change one in door? That one seem to be soldered permanently. I'm asking because if you just stick some bulb into that rubber it won't work.
It should get power when you pull door handle and when car door just opens.
It should get power when you pull door handle and when car door just opens.
I cut the wires on the old one and then soldered the new ones wires to the existing wires.
I guess I won't help much by saying so... But in issues like that I was successful using factory electric manual and DMM. Usually takes about 15-20 minutes to pinpoint problem. Looks like you need to start tracing circuit for shorts.
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Ok. I'm opening 94 body electric manual. Page 345.
Issue #1. Flowcharts 1, 2, 3
Some big items to check:
1. ROOM fuse
2. Bad switch (door, hatch, or hood)
3. Bad CPU2
4. Bad wiring.
Also, there is easy to follow instructions.
Issue #1. Flowcharts 1, 2, 3
Some big items to check:
1. ROOM fuse
2. Bad switch (door, hatch, or hood)
3. Bad CPU2
4. Bad wiring.
Also, there is easy to follow instructions.
Ok I found the problem they both get power but no ground? Ok what I want to know is where they both get there ground from where do they meet to get there ground? Also keep in mind aim not very good with diagrams so if some one can help me and tell me where both the ignition key light and key hole light both get there ground supply from that be great? O and by the way I get a full 12 volt reading at the wires ends if I supply my own ground source is that what aim suppose to get? Thanks
Sorry for confusion. "Security light" is not ignition switch light.
Let's go over it again.
94_wiring diagram. Z-84(page 87 in PDF)
Ignition light and key cylinder light get their (+) from battery which you already confirmed working.
Since they both don't get ground and since you have them both inoperable - I would say that CPU2 shot.
Try one more test and put that lead that connects to CPU2 to the ground and see if those lights work.
How to find that lead? Z-84 sayst (112) Section J-4
J-4 is on page 95. They go in alpha order and marked on upper left corner.
Looking at J-4 I see that (112) goes to pin 1s which is GY/R (grey/red)
On a bottom of that diagram you see connector pinouts with pin identifications.
Pull bigger connector from CPU2 and short that pin to ground. Got light? Bingo! This means your wiring OK but your CPU2 most likely shot. Or maybe it's not getting power or something else?
Maybe it's time for CPU2.. Did you check that your alarm works?
Let's go over it again.
94_wiring diagram. Z-84(page 87 in PDF)
Ignition light and key cylinder light get their (+) from battery which you already confirmed working.
Since they both don't get ground and since you have them both inoperable - I would say that CPU2 shot.
Try one more test and put that lead that connects to CPU2 to the ground and see if those lights work.
How to find that lead? Z-84 sayst (112) Section J-4
J-4 is on page 95. They go in alpha order and marked on upper left corner.
Looking at J-4 I see that (112) goes to pin 1s which is GY/R (grey/red)
On a bottom of that diagram you see connector pinouts with pin identifications.
Pull bigger connector from CPU2 and short that pin to ground. Got light? Bingo! This means your wiring OK but your CPU2 most likely shot. Or maybe it's not getting power or something else?
Maybe it's time for CPU2.. Did you check that your alarm works?
Also, check CPU2 power and ground.
J-4:
1-A should have +12
1-H should rest on a ground
1-P should see ground when you pull door handle (it makes CPU2 turn those lights on)
If all those check out good - replace CPU2
P.S. Make all tests with connector unplugged
J-4:
1-A should have +12
1-H should rest on a ground
1-P should see ground when you pull door handle (it makes CPU2 turn those lights on)
If all those check out good - replace CPU2
P.S. Make all tests with connector unplugged
Thanks a lot you’ve been a great help! Its great to see that someone will go to all this trouble in searching manual and diagrams for someone else knowing that there wont me anything in it for him I will definitely do these tests and again thanks a lot. O and yes I will let you know what I find.
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