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Idle problem.

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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 03:12 AM
  #1  
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Idle problem.

Not sure if this is a PFC problem or something else so I'm posting it here.
Recently my car has been Idling high ~1200-1400 rpm.
I reset my PFC and did the idle test.
Idle settings in the PFC:
Norm: 720
Rear defroster: 800
A/C:900

The idle stabalized at about 1k for normal setting, 850 for the defroster and 900 for the A/C. When you turn them off the idle increases back to 1k. Two days later the car is idling at 1700-1800rpm regardless of whats turned on (when fully warmed up).

Any ideas?

Cheers
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:40 AM
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check your idle air adjustment screw it is on throtle body it faces the driver front fender and it is inside of the hole there. if you look at the stock throtle elbow( the one from top of intercooler to throtle body) there is a little notch in it so you can actually adjust it while its still on the car. so if you are standing next to the driver front tire put your hand under that elbow, where it meets the throtle body you will feel the hole there start the car and see if you can adjust the idel that way first. My screw worked itself out. its a standard screwdriver, just tighten it all the way and then back it out about a whole turn (360 degrees) for a good start

Last edited by rxgrun7; Nov 13, 2008 at 12:43 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 03:31 AM
  #3  
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Thanks! I'll try that later when I finish work.

Cheers

Tom
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:17 AM
  #4  
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Shamefully it made no differance. now every time I come to a stop it idle hunts. If I turn A/C on the Idle drops....

Any ideas?
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #5  
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From: Wilmington, DE
If the idle is hunting turn the TPS screw out a few turns. Should lower the idle a bit and it should stop hunting.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ceylon
Not sure if this is a PFC problem or something else so I'm posting it here.
Recently my car has been Idling high ~1200-1400 rpm.
I reset my PFC and did the idle test.
Idle settings in the PFC:
Norm: 720
Rear defroster: 800
A/C:900

The idle stabalized at about 1k for normal setting, 850 for the defroster and 900 for the A/C. When you turn them off the idle increases back to 1k. Two days later the car is idling at 1700-1800rpm regardless of whats turned on (when fully warmed up).

Any ideas?

Cheers

Search for idle and TPS adjustment procedures.

If the TPS is off, it can make a big difference when it gets set correctly.
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #7  
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yes its pretty easy to adjust too go to fd3s.net/tps_adjustment.html they have a really easy to follow instructions on TPS adjustment
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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Ive got it

Hey dude. I know this sounds a lil crazy but try it to see if it will work for you too. I went to the ect. menu then function section on the comander and cycled all off then on and left the isc off its number 5 on the list but i hope this works for you too. GOOD LUCK
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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Did you have TEN and GND jumped while you were fiddling with your air bleed screw?
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QWIK7
Did you have TEN and GND jumped while you were fiddling with your air bleed screw?
What difference would this make the FSM states to only adjust it to half a turn open anyways?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 12:03 AM
  #11  
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02 feedback turned off?

Vacuume leaks after the TB?
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 06:57 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by rxgrun7
Hey dude. I know this sounds a lil crazy but try it to see if it will work for you too. I went to the ect. menu then function section on the comander and cycled all off then on and left the isc off its number 5 on the list but i hope this works for you too. GOOD LUCK
Sorry I've been away a few days, this suggestion seemed to work. Would'nt have thought of that lol.

Thanks!

Tom.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #13  
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Once you adjust the screws on the TB you need to have a datalogit and a wideband to finish the idle tuning. The hunting can be caused by air temperature correction tables etc. Trust me, I just went through this whole mess with a friend's FD. It took many hours of fiddling to get it right. You need your AFR to be 12.5-13.0 consistently (sometimes you can go a little leaner) with O2 F/B off and the 4 wires cut from the harness per the installation instructions.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 11:56 PM
  #14  
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Thumbs up Motor Blew

hey guys sorry to be writting with bad news but it was a blown motor this whole time for me. I felt like an idiot once I did the compression check which I should have started with but oh well live and learn Rotory For Life. The good news is that I rebuilt the motor myself in the garage and actually did a lil port work while I was in there. I finally ripped it the other night and WOW this bicth halls ***. I have to float the throtle in 2nd gear now to keep the tires from roasting. anyway good luck and I hope to see you all at seven stock next year cant wait.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 10:36 AM
  #15  
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From: cold
Good to hear you fixed it.
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