I need to pull my motor within 2 days... I know it takes some of you guys a couple of hours. I have never pulled a rotary motor. Does anyone have any links, or any usefull information on how to go about doing so.. One major question i had was. Should i pull the harness through the firewall (from the ecu side) or should i pull individual plugs off and pull the motor. LINKSSS!!

 

pull the harness through

 

It's fairly straight forward. The main things (aside from the harness question already answered above) are to unbolt the P/S and A/C; just leave them in the car. The P/S can get in the way so I usually use some twine to tie it up out of the way.

Other than that, drain the fluids before you pull it.

 

remove hood, bumper/light covers first...this allows you to get closer and not scratch anything. taking the radiator out helps alot too.

 

i removed the hood, unbolted the motor mounts, the a/c, p/s and pulled the harness through and of course remove the bell housing bolts.

I left the radiator and radiator fans in and had no problem.

you can even leave the downpipe on as long as you have a good working leveling device.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html

 

OK... i removed the radiator/fans, the FMIC, downpipe, Drained the PS fluids, a/c lines off, cluch line off... had to take the UIM off to undo the wiring from my jacobs, so i ended up unpluging the whole engine harness, took the plugs off the tranny/starter. Im taking a brake right now but when i go back out i will be taking off the driveshaft and tranny mount, clutch line, and pull the motor/trans... hopefully i dont run into any snags.

 

You didn't mention the hood. As other people suggested, I would really remove the hood, it makes it a lot easier to finally lift the engine out.

After you do everything you said, just start lifting the engine out slowly and after every couple of pumps on the engine crane, see if anything is still connected or is getting snagged. I missed a few ground connections when I did mine and found them as I tried to lift the engine out. The whole process is surprisingly easy.

- Andy

 

thats the first thing i did

 

i cant get the damned clutch line off! the 10mm feels like its going to round the nut, the 17mm feels fine on the other side

 

Yeah I had similar feeling when bleeding the clutch. Just use a non slip open end spanner that has that little groove in it to stop it slipping.

 

You could just take the slave cylinder out of the tranny. That's what I did.

 

Where the hell is that thread that went into DEEP DETAIL on EVERYTHING on removing the motor. I think I'm going to grow some ***** and start working on the car myself.

Anyone know where that link was? I searched last night for about an hour to no resolve. It had pictures of every single step.

By chance does the service manual cover this, as I just purchased one and should have it sometime next week?

 

You'll need to unplug the the oil sending unit connector and oil level sensor connector and ground wire on the driver's side harness.

 

check!

 

Am I on everyone's ignore list or something? The link I posted above is the most comprehensive writeup I've ever seen online...except for an actual video that you pay for or something.

Basically if you can't take what I've given you in the writeup and know what I am talking about in each step...then you shouldn't be doing the job anyway.

 

Buy Bruce Turrentine's video; in it he removes a 3rd gen engine step-by-step.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/R%20R%20Video.htm

 

Oh ****, I didn't see your post.

Actually, that was the write up I was looking for to be honest!!! Great info, looks pretty simple actually, just a lot of tedious bolt turning is all. I forgot that that was you and that writeup was on your website.

Thanks man

 

All i did was this:

remove all coolant hoses. be sure to get the ones that are towards the back near the firewall. un hook oil lines (two up front, easy, pry out clip, they slip apart). remove hood. unbolt ac pump. unhook PS lines (after draining system completely) are you pulling the transmission with it? if so, unblot all the stuff underneath. if not, pull a cover and dislodge the snap ring. do a search, there is a video on how easy it is to press the collar in to release the transmission. then pull harness through firewall. disconnect the other wiring harness on the DS of the engine. i removed it with my engine. disconnect airpump lines and exhaust. you can do it at the end of the DP, or you can remove the DP itself. also, if you are not taking out the tranny with it, you have to disconnect hte wiring harness section that goes to it. as you are removing the engine with the engine hoist at this point... be sure to look for ANY other connections, or vacuum hoses and the like that may be connected as you are pulling it out. try not to catch your ac lines.. as i bet they are expensive to replace.

pull it out. and done. i removed mine with the tranny and it was cake.

 

My 2 cents : Use the service manual and DO NOT RUSH. Trying to save time by rushing will just result in breaking parts which costs more money and adds time to the whole process.

-Charlie

 

I'm going to drop a reman in, so would it be better, as in easier, to pull the tranny with the motor, or leave the tranny in place? The car won't need to be moved and will sit in the same place from start to finish.

 

Just thought I would metion something here.... I just pulled my motor yesterday. Did everything stated in the thread, motor wouldn't come off the trans.--REMEMBER to pop the clutch arm off !!!!!

 

Does the rotary aviation engine removal dvd go over tearing the the long block down to the short block? Does the rebuild dvd show it?

I think this is the part that will kick my ***.....

 

Do it meticulously and you'll have no problems.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._teardown.html

 

I've never pulled the hood to pull the engine and trans. It takes about 2hrs (yes I've timed it, 1:54) to get the complete engine and trans out of a running stock FD. The engine and trans can come out with the pre-cat, belts, trans, starter, all wiring harnesses, airpump, etc, etc. It is much easier to deal with all the details when you can walk around the engine and trans when they are out of the car.

Here is what I remember, I might miss a few details...

ENGINE compartment:

I pull IC, battery and airbox, remove crossbar also. The radiator stays.

Loosen gas filler cap (vents vapor pressure that pushes fuel out of the lines), disconnect fuel lines and plug.

Disconnnect wiring @ ECU, pull wiring through firewall. Remove ground wires.

Disconnect the two grey plugs near the drivers side strut tower. Remove jumper wire that attaches the bigger relay/fuse box.

Disconnect throttle and cruise cables @ throttle body, also remove clips that hold cables to the motor.

Drain fluids, engine oil, coolant, trans oil.

I cut the coolant hoses, unless they are relatively new I replace them anyway.

If the AC doesn't work I disconnect the lines from the pump. If it does work I take the PS pump off the car and remove the AC pump (leave connected to the car).

Prop the hood up as high as it will go, the motor will come out no problem with the hood attached.

INSIDE the car.

Remove center console panel, shift ****, lay to the side, remove shifter assy from trans.

UNDER the car.

Remove, main cat, underbody shields, 3 braces across the tranny tunnel, PPF, driveline and motor mounts (from motor).