The "89" that I was referring to was the "issue" number. They number all their videos for cataloging purposes and because there's a crap load of them. Number 89 is pretty RX7 heavy with lots of third gens and a few 2nd gens.
Michel

Did you ever get to return the two-row for the three-row?

My 2-row's going in next week :)

I ended up installing the two row. They wouldn't take back the three row. Yet another reason to never purchase anything GReddy again, LOL. It seems to be working just fine but I haven't really put it to the test doing any extended periods of boost. I think the CWR, overall, is still a better IC for all around usage. I have to work out a few bugs and double check my BOV, but I had to turn up by boost controller solenoid duty cycles to get the same boost level and it seems to take a hair longer to reach max boost too. I have a GReddy Type R BOV coming (I know I know) to replace the Type S which is apparently only good up to 300hp or so. I've heard the type S can leak boost once the CFM and pressure is upped substantially. I'm also in the process of checking for any leaks. Much easier when you only have a few hoses!
Michel

Oh, Manny, one more thing...plan on putting some sort of screen or mesh over the radiator/IC inlet. Rocks can damage the front mounts pretty darn quickly. ACE Hardware has quite a large selection of products that will work. Just prime and paint them to your desired color or leave them in their natural finish.
Michel

I've always wondered...

How much damage really has to be done to the core of an intercooler before it begins to lose function? In this case, with a FMIC, the surface area is really big...

My last car had a FMIC, it was a Trust 2 row. On a Integra GSR. It got beat up a little, here and there, but nothing too drastic. I bent the damaged fins out as often as I could.

Anyone ever noticed a DECREASE in performance from a FUBAR FMIC?

Michel
 

Yes, I'll definitely plan on that!

While bent fins certainly don't help flow or cooling, there's also the possibility that rocks could puncture the actual runners causing the IC to loose pressure. I live in the fastest growing city in the United States which is at or below sea level (smart huh?). As such, gravel trucks are more common than riced out Civics. There isn't a day that goes by where I don't get stuck behind one on the road or highway. I think you'd have to bend lots of fins to drastically affect the IC's efficiency at removing heat. Still, they look like sh*t after they've been beat up, LOL.
Michel

fubar? oh...f*cked up beyond all recognition :)

Does ambient temp make a huge difference in the decision to go FMIC?

I definately want to go FMIC (I think it looks cool, and if you are gonna spend the money on a new IC. it might as well look nice as long as it doesnt compromise the life of the engine...)

I live in Toronto (the great white north hehe) and in the summer, temps usually max out around 30 C.

So would I be able to get away with the FMIC since it doesnt get super hot up here?

Or what if I scrapped the AC condensor, since I never use the AC anyways.

Or how bout if I added some sort of ducting that grabbed outside air from somewhere other than behind the IC? (oh yeah, i am getting a custom rad built if that matters)

I guess I am one of those people who just wants it to work...I drive it as a daily driver and not a track car.

Excellent thread btw
charr33

OK, where's the PROOF? Not just hearsay.......:cool:

I've run water wetter and distilled H20 in my system for the past five years. I don't need no stinking anti-freeze in Tucson. 10 year old water pump. (although I did splurge for a new OEM t-stat a few years ago just for grins). I also ALWAYS run 4oz. of synthetic two stroke with a tank of gas, that couldn't have ANYTHING to do with keeping engine temps in checks, could it?

Ron, glad to know you can run 100% distilled water and Redline Water Wetter with no ill effects :)

Nice write up Lou!
 

Nice write up! You almost had me convinced.

I agree with the others. FMIC does have its problems with blocking the inadequate air flow to the radiator.

I think I will head towards SMIC with electric fans to reduce heat soak.

I also think all the cutting and rearranging for the FMIC would be a PITA?

Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to write up your comparisions.:)

Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

Get a vented hood to, let all that hot air go somewhere

Quote:

---

I also think all the cutting and rearranging for the FMIC would be a PITA?

---

Not if you're having a shop like Rx7 Store install the FMIC :)

Re: Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

Vented hood do little to let out heat under moving and load conditions. While they can bring Intake temps down and help prevent heat soak, they are not a good means of controlling water temperature.
Vented hoods work best after you have had a run and shut down the car, at which point you would open your hood anyway.

I'm surprised to find that you don't perform the work yourself.
As a racer knowing how to install your parts, and how they function goes along way in helping the driver and the car perform at their best at the track.
Not to mention the knowledge and pride gained from doing things yourself. (Don't foget the money you can save as well.)

Re: Re: Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

Just cuz I don't do the work myself doesn't mean I don't know squat about how the car functions.

Money? Who cares about money? If you have a heavily modded FD Rx7, money grows on trees ;)

Re: Re: Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

BTW this is the most text I've seen you post in a LONG time ?

Re: Re: Re: Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

I've been lazy for a LONG time. :D
This forum still comes up with some great threads, and while we have a lot of great members; it often seems as though the quality is lacking.
I grow tired of answering the same questions, combing through the crap threads, etc...

Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

oops, i really do not know how to seperate the quote so my reply is in stars

type "

Quote:

---

" at the beginning of the quote, and "

---

" end quote. No hard returns necessary. You can start typing right next to the commands, and the reply will be formatted automatically :)

see it worked really well, didn't it?

type ["capital b"]["QUOTE"], in front of the text you want quoted.

at the end of the quote, type [/"capital b"][/"QUOTE"]

I just press quote, and start copying and pasting the quote commands, and modifying the forward slash as appropriate :)

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Nice write up Lou!
 

So this thread has enough quality for you to actually type more than just phrases AND use capitalization/puncutation? Wow...we feel honored :)

:rofl:
just for the record...no matter how good the content of a thread, i will never use capitilazation, corect punctuation, and i will always spell a word wrong. :dunce: :blue:

Finally some data from yesterday's (22 Mar 2003) open lapping track event at Putnam Park www.putnampark.com See my sig below for mods list.

Ambient temp was 50-ish F, Mt Meridian Indiana.

During the morning sessions boost setting was 11.4 psi on the primary turbo, 10.7 psi on the secondary turbo. Wastegate solenoid duty cycles were 66 and 64 %, respectively. Actual boost readings were 11 psi on the primary, and 10 psi on the secondary (read from Autometer boost gauge).

During the afternoon sessions, I set the boost to 12.1 psi on the primary and 11.4 psi on the secondary. Wastegate solenoid duty cycles were 70 and 68 %, respectively. Autometer boost gauge read 12 psi on the primary turbo and 11 psi on the secondary turbo.

Fuel octane for afternoon sessions was ~99 unleaded (1/2 tank 94, and 1/2 tank 104 unleaded Sunoco).

Power FC Commander was set on peak mode. Peak knock was 194 with 94 octane, and 134 with 99 octane. Normal knock readings range from 26 to 68. It's anyone's guess whether Power FC Commander knock sensor readings mean anything.

Manifold air intake temps never budged from 37 C (98.6 F).

Water temps peaked at 104 C (219 F), during hottest lapping, but remained in the 100 C to 102 C range throughout. The water temps immediately dropped to street level readings during the cool down laps, 85 C to 87 C (185 F to 187 F). These water temps aren't exceedingly high, and are actually cooler than the water temps seen with stock IC/Rad combo, which usually run between 220 and 240 F with the stock setup when running hard on track.

My car performed as expected. LOTs of exit speed from the turns. The boost response curve was heavenly with the J-spec twin turbos.

I had no mechanical issues.

My next track event is Apr 26/27 Central Indiana PCA drivers education weekend @ Putnam Park Spring Brake 2003 http://cir.pca.org/

FWIW we had EIGHT FD Rx7s at yesterday's MDC open lapping DE @ Putnam Park. Included were radkins (Ryan Adkins), cwilliams (Charlie Williams), and nocab72 (Kyle Bacon). Kyle Bacon's 550 hp Pineapple motored FD with GT35/40 was rather tame with 10 psi boost and 380 hp LOL. Kyle's officially become a road racer with yesterday's Putnam Park event under his belt. Next track school for Kyle is Mid Ohio, right in his "back yard" :) Ryan will be joining us on May 9 Friday evening MDC track lapping.

hmmm