FYI: intercooler comparisons are done SMIC VS. FMIC
 

well, after a long comparison on 2 very popular aftermarket intercoolers, i have some information that some of you might find interesting...hopefully, some of you who seem to still be undecided between the 2 will gain some knowledge from my research and figure the rest out....

the 2 units that are used and in question are:

PETTIT cool charge II SMIC
GREDDY 2 row fmic (for twins)

the unit for measurement is an autometer CF intake temp guage with thermocouple that is plumbed into the greddy intake elbow about 6" from the throttle body itself..

first off, i would like to say, that for the price of a pettit smic, 1349.00, you could have the greddy fmic that i have for ~$500.00 less. i paid 850.00 for the greddy, and it came with everything i needed....

1.Installs: well, this is a no brainer. the pettit unit, as would almost any SMIC, installed in about an hour. the greddy fmic was a little more involved, but not too dificult nonetheless. the fitment on the units was superb for both, i did have to trim out the bumper for the fmic, bit it looks very sharp nonetheless. the ac was retained, but later removed because i do not use it any way..

2. performance:

pettit SMIC: one thing that i noticed about the pettit unit, and charachteristic to MANY SMIC units, was that i t was very prone to heatsoak during city driving conditions, especially in the dead of summer. the thing was a blast in the winter, and the heatsoak was minimal. the pettit unit however, with the duct installed as it should be, was VERY efficient under interstate driving, and quickly regained the desired lower intake air, temps as the air was able to circulate better and more rapidly.

as far as the pettit IC intake temps are concerned, i would give the pettit unit a C+ for city driving and a B+ for spirited interstate driving. the temps in the summer time would be in the mid 90's, and the intake temps could/did reach as high as 170 degrees. however, for interstate driving, the temps dropped rapidly and would hover around 105-110 degrees. in the winter time, the temps would average ~40 degrees during the day, and the intake temps would be ~75-80 degrees

greddy FMIC: well, when i first opened the greddy IC, i was shocked. the core of this unit was a gargantuan in comparison to the pettit core. it was at least 3 times the coverage area, and was 50% deeper as well. the install of the fmic called for me to relocate the radiator and the ac condenser, and a new power steering oil cooling line was routed as well (all necessary hardware was included)....i first noticed that my water temps were up almost from day one. that was to be expected because of hte fact that the ac condenser was now sitting almost directly against the radiator (stock), and they have now been relocated to a horizontal position directly in front of the pulleys...the intercooler looks very mean, and packed the skills to back up the look. aside from the higher water temp issue that i was very pleased at the performance of this unit. from the first push of the throttle i knew that it was love. there was little to no heat soak whatsoever, and the intake air temps on the guage hover around ~10 degrees higher than the normal/ambient air temp outside. i give this unit an B+ for city driving, and an A+ for interstate and spirited driving.


my summary: both of these units are VERY capable, and a great improvement over the stock unit. both look good in their own respects, and are *fairly* simple to install. I like the ease of installation of the pettit SMIC unit, and the fact that never once did i have to worry about my radiator getting enough air circulation. i love the look and the quick cooling capacity of the FMIC as compared to the SMIC, and its size for the cooling in general. overall, i think that either choice of a FMIC or a SMIC upgrade would be one of the best decisions that you could make while maintaining and modifying your rx7. i know that many of you will not finish this write up that i have done, and that is ok. i wrote this on the premise that there are soo many threads that are based on which is better and this and that.....i have a great deal of experience with both of these types of intercoolers, as well as the stock one....feel free to criticize or question anything that i have written. i apologize if it is repetitive, i started writing this 3 days ago at work, and have only found a few minutes here and there to complete it...

louis

Great writeup Louis. I'm still happy with your old Petit IC. I still may go FMIC sometime in the future... But not until I go single!


Justin

thanx for the info, it's nice to see some numbers. i wonder how the greddy fmic would do vs. pettit w/ a fan in city driving?

I think its very commendable that you took the time to do this comparison, and share the results with us. THANKS!

A couple thoughts:

In reality, it would have been a more fair comparison if you'd used a large SMIC like the M2 large or CWR, as their cores are much closer in size to the Greddy.

You breeze over the fact that your water temps were instantly higher w/ the Greddy... this is no small consideration. That sort of heat is deadly to our cars, as you well know.

I don't think anyone debates that a FMIC outperforms a similar stock mount particularly with heat soak. The reason alot of folks choose the SMIC, is because they feel that they can't afford to compromise water temps... even for cooler charge temps. I personally feel that water temps trump air intake temps.

Not putting down your research, just adding a point or two, nice work!

well, there really is not too much room for a fan with the pettit unit.

justin, i was more than happy with the pettit unit that you got from me, and frankly, if i had known then, what i know now, i prolly would NOT have sold that unit to you or anyone else for that matter. there are far fewer headaches involved with a smic than a fmic, and, if i weren't an avid and ambitious mechanic, i would not even own an fd for that matter. but, looking back, i still like the fmic. it looks great, power is very consistent and strong, and i cleared up a ton of room under the hood.

louis

well, living here in mississippi, i surely can not afford the higher than normal water temps. however, i think that with a vented hood and fluidyne, i will never agonize over the running hot issue again....

lou

Lou,

Did you have your Fluidyne radiator installed during the comparison? What were your water temps?

I plan to go with a 2-row Greddy FMIC myself, with a Koyo radiator.

What kind of battery did you get to fit with the 2-row FMIC piping?

Nice work on the IC comparison.

Verfies what I thought of FMICs--the best way to go for maximum intake charge air cooling :)

My thought exactly.
Water temps can cost you an engine if they rise to much. Where as the inatke charge is not nearly as crucial.
I think that fact also that the IC that you tested was not a similairly sized model. Also taking into consideration the work put into mounting your average FMIC.
I do not understand why the front mounts are so popular.

Good post though and I am glad that I clicked on it.

Nice work! Very nice comparison with numbers. Obviously there are pros and cons to both. Look wise I don't think you can beat a fmic. But the Pettit II is a small unit - a Pettit III might have been a better comparison - but either way, I'm glad you put some time and compared 2 popular ICs to help some who seem so bent on one or the other.

i had experience with the m2 medium as well, in my other fd, which is similar to the pettit III unit that you speak of.

i have had no temp problems since i removed the ac condenser soil from in front of the radiator. i saw the temps get up to 199, and i never let them get there again.....sorry, but the $$$ that i have tied up in my car are far too valuable, not to mention the standing value/love i have for my car itself, to play with hig temps of any cause.....

louis

I'd be interested in actual coolant temp comparison. Of course it isn't valid now that the AC is pulled unless you do the whole comparison over.

Did you have to "hack" off the brace on the car behind the bumper support for the FMIC? Did you retain the Power Steering cooling loop?

Thanks,
Jeff

The temps shouldn't get get that hot with the FMIC, unless you're running a stock radiator??

Big Koyo or Fluidyne with fans that kick on at 180 F should be fine..

I'll find out myself, when mine gets intstalled.

Thanks for the great comparison and data.
I have the Greddy 2-row FMIC and i'm happily surprised to hear that your data shows the intake temps were roughly 10F higher than ambient. That is a pretty high level of efficiency IMHO.

I'm curious as to what boost levels these tests were done at and what type of intake?

When it comes to FMICs and water temps. My thing is this. If you had water temp/coolant issues stock, it will only exagerate itself with the FMIC. If you don't have any problems now...you won't have it after the FMIC.

Danny

Whats the difference between the greddy 2 row and the 3 row. Performance/price??

Hi

Basically there are two types of intercoler cores from Greddy

2 row H276 L600 W76
3 row H258 L600 W115

And there are several types of piping kits which depends on your turbine.

As for performance,
If your turbine is stock or rather small turbine wit normal port,
2 row is better.

If your turbine is big, for example T51, T45, T88 with modified port,
3 row is better.

Price depends on your mods.

Yup, pretty apt description inukai!

The 3-row has too much pressure drop for the stock or Japan spec twin turbos due to the large IC core's volume.

2-row Greddy FMIC for Twin Sequential Turbos!

I thought you were going with the 3 row or custom 4 row??? :D
Why the change?
An upgraded radiator doesn't bring temps down, it just doesn't split or leak leaving you stranded.

Good writeup. I'd love to hear one comparing the V-mount setups to both of the others.

?????????????????

i would be glad to do a comparison on the v-mount. someone get me a unit, and i will test the shit out of it.....

For comparison's sake, I just cruised around town in 56 degree weather in both stop & go and constant speed ~50 mph.

During light traffic between stop lights my greddy SMIC air temperature reached as high as 48 degrees celsius briefly with most stop & go traffic between 39-44c (102-111F). During my constant speed driving the air tempurature was between 30-34c (86-91f). For the most part the water temperature stayed around 79c/174f.

Don't know if this helpful or not. I'd be interested in any comments.

Hi

Horizontal mount is much much better.

Intercooler is near the throttle, then response is better.
Of course cooling advantage is better.

As for RE-A horizontal kits,
down force effectiveness and air flow design is considered.

But very expensive.

very expensive is right. i really wanted to do a horizontal or a v-mount, but none were cost efficient for me. i even thought about fabricating one myself, but it will be one of those rainy day projects. i just happen to have a company that we met at sema that can get a really cool core for very cheap.......i will begin working on it in the spring.....

Huh?

isn't the v mount from rotaryextreme the same price as a greddy 3 row or a asp/m2 large ic? and what is the price of re-a hmic?

luigi

i would think that an upgraded rasiator WOULD bring down temps, right??/

Did I miss the answers to these questions or do the "front mount" people not like to talk about this?

Jeff

I have always been concerned that in addition to impairing radiator efficiency that airflow through the engine compartment would be seriously compromised with a FMIC, aftermarket air box mod, etc. It does not matter how big or how many rows or what your radiator is made of, if there is not enough air moving through it she ain't going to work. Especially at low speeds, and curiously enough, even at high speeds due to aerodynamic considerations.

Granted, fresh air moving through the engine "room" (as Mr. Chin is fond of calling it) is fourth on the list of cooling factors, behind gasoline, water and oil - but it IS still important none the less to help prevent hot spots...I think a vented hood (and one that is proven to extract HOT air vs. one bolted on for looks) is mandatory with a FMIC. I wonder if ANY of the aftermarket vented hoods been in a wind tunnel for some serious scientific evaluation.

I really enjoyed the write up! Good work. This is great stuff to see on the forum. Beats "How many chicks can an FD draw?":D

For the Greddy 2 row, you must hack at the fiberglass bumper reinforcement considerably. You also have to shave/cut the factory bumper as well.

Water Temps on my car aren't a big concern to be honest. During this winter time, i'm actually have a hard time getting out of the warm up mode, ESPECIALLY on the freeway. During hot summer days, i can just turn the fans on and my temps are fine again.

On the topic of air going to the engine area. If air is going through the radiator, it's going to the engine. With stock or with an FMIC, air must go through the radiator before it hits the engine area. Or at least that's what i remmeber from looking at the front of the car.

Danny

No the RE V-mount is $2800. The RE HMIC is $1450, but you'll need a vented hood for the HMIC to work properly.

Dave Barninger of KD Rotary
 

recommends the Greddy 2-row FMIC and Koyo radiator for his customers with sequential twins and ported motors (enlarged intake/exhaust ports, enlarged oil/coolant passages).

He says Greddy 2-row FMIC/ported motor water temps range between 90 and 95 C (191 and 201 F); stock motor and stock radiator, water temps range between 180 and 220 F, depending on ambient temp conditions.

I've overheated my motor once at Mid Ohio in '99 (odometer @60,000 miles). I blew the upper radiator hose; the motor was being cooled by the oil (280 F).

That motor now has 102,500 miles. Still runs but with low compression. The old motor passed a leakdown test, despite being overhead 4 years ago.

The water temp issue gets overstated, especially by FD owners with large SMIC kits.

How well does cooling air exit the radiator with a large SMIC core duct blocking the air exit?

How much cooling air does a large SMIC duct allow through the IC core with such a small opening in the duct?

The FMIC is the most efficient way to cool the intake charge air; and is less prone to heat-soaking.

If a LARGE SMIC core was such a great idea, why aren't there any Japan domestic market AEM standard mount IC Kits available for the FD Rx7?

Yes the Blitz and the Greddy SMIC kits are available. The Blitz SMIC core is no larger than the stock IC. The Greddy SMIC core is only slightly larger than the PFS IC core.

Nearly all the JDM AEM IC kits with LARGE IC cores are front-mounted ICs.

What are the ambient temps in Japan?

FMICs aren't just a hip trend.

>>The 3-row has too much pressure drop for the stock or Japan spec twin turbos due to the large IC core's volume.

2-row Greddy FMIC for Twin Sequential Turbos!<<

Hmmmm... I may argue with that !
too much pressure drop !!!! don't think so.......a little added lag due to the bigger piping (3"vs 2.75") and bigger core....possibly.

I can you argue with 122mph trap speed with stock motor and turbos.

But honestly....if you're planning on running the twins I would recommend the 2 row.......performance is about the same and less cutting.

Re: Dave Barninger of KD Rotary
 

I asked more questions than just the water temp.

1. What happens to the power steering cooling loop? I know that there are several FMIC kits out there. I know they can't all keep the PS cooling loop. No PS cooling loop doesn't sound good to me.

2. What were the REAL COOLANT TEMPS? This was glossed over in the original post and never really addressed. This is the major concern with FMICs. I personally know a auto-xer with a RX7 Fashion FMIC and a Mazdacomp radiator. His car DOES overheat when driving in higher load, lower speed conditions. IE, going up a steep hill, esp following another car. Track conditions will cause it to overheat also.

3. What did he have to cut off the car? I know that some of the FMIC kits completely remove the bumper support or really hack on it. This is bad for a street driven car but people will say they will never bump anything. OK fine. Some, maybe all, FMICs require that an actual part of the body struture be cut off. I'm not talking about the bumper support, I'm talking about STEEL that is part of the body. Now the front of an FD is really "fragile" in an accident. Remove the bumper support and you might find a 5mph bump will crush everything up front. Remove the steel and you'll find hitting anything at all will crush your FMIC and rad back to the crank pulley.

What is going on in Japan. Good question.

It seems to me that there is a larger profit margin on FMICs. No ducting.
The cars in Japan surely don't see the desert heat. High humdity helps cooling. They don't see a lot of high speed driving. Japan has 50% of the population as the US all packed into California. FDs are toys for only the very very rich there and they aren't driving them in condtions like we are.

FMICs are a hip trend IMHO.
Reason #1 for getting a FMIC many guys won't admit to:

People want a FMIC so you can see it through the bumper slot.

I can believe if you remove the AC, and to a lesser degree the PS, the cooling issue of a FMIC becomes mostly a moot point on a twin boosted car.

Single turbo seems to also work well with a FMIC.

Jeff

Jeff, the coolant loop is rerouted. its not very hard to do. i will take a pic tomorrow of the new placement. i did not have to do any structrual *cutting* to my FD. BUT...the bumber cover went on over top of this just the way you see it. ;) https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1321607

Thanks for the pic! Some FMICs require cutting off the piece of body that your IC butts up against.

It is interesting that they have such a large core, obviously the top ~2" are blocked on the back side.

Thanks again for the pic:).

Jeff

Re: Re: Dave Barninger of KD Rotary
 

1. The PS loop gets re-routed. The Greddy 2- and 3-row FMICs kits come with the braided hose to do the re-routing.

2. I already stated what the water temps are based on KDR Perf's experience, 191 to 201 F. This is with the Apex Power FC kicking on the radiator fans at 180 F. If your friend had high water temps BEFORE adding the FMIC, it will only be exacerbated with an FMIC. Also what do you define as overheating? The stock water temps for a 13B REW can run between 180 and 220F. I've run mine up to 290F with no consequences (or maybe I was just lucky)?

3. You have to trim ~1 inch off of the front bumper opening, for the Greddy 2-row, and ~2 inches for the 3-row. According to KDR the 2-row FMIC has no affect on the 5-mph crash-worthiness of the bumper. Dave did mention that in an off-set frontal impact of greater than 5-mph could damage the FMIC core.

There has to be a few Japanese FD enthusiasts who road race with FMICs, although many pro teams use the V-mount IC/Rad combo which is a variation on the horizontal mount IC.

You mean the FD Rx7 is used a daily transport HERE IN THE USA! I know I use mine that way, but I get the impression that many of you use the FD Rx7 as "toys" also?

No American or Japanese FD enthusiast will argue about the aesthetics of an FMIC (vs a SMIC). The FMIC is cool, no question. BUT the FMIC also works better for cooling the intake charge air temps.

FWIW the Greddy 2-row and 3-row FMIC tilts the A/C condenser up and in front of the radiator core, and you do NOT need to evacuate the A/C lines!

The twins apparently work very well with the 2-row Greddy FMIC, but the 3-row FMIC presents too much boost pressure drop for the little twins to work effectively.

Cool Post !!

SleepR1

Inukai
 

Thanks :)

What's been your experience there in Japan with FMICs?

The FMIC and SMIC issue has always been kind of interesting. I have started my own SMIC project for my FD. I have already spent a good amount of time and money so, I won't be changing for a FMIC anytime soon.

I do think it is interesting how M2 Performance / Pettit Racing (US tuners and road racers) use SMIC while, in Japan we see FMIC ??? It can't only be because, M2 and Pettit sell SMIC so, they have been tested and they work. If FMIC where better? I am sure they would use them and sell them.

I guess the debate will continue on!

//Oliver

Japan vs US FD Rx7 Tuners
 

My preference would be to trust the Japanese tuners over the USA tuners when it comes to tuning the FD Rx7.

The argument follows the other way. Why trust a Japanese tuner with a C5 Vette, when we could go with Mallet or Lingenfelter in the USA? :)

Re: Japan vs US FD Rx7 Tuners
 

Let's not forget Callaway. I belive they had/have a production car that you can buy off the shelf that will do 250mph.:eek: Truly scarey.

Re: Japan vs US FD Rx7 Tuners
 

Good point , I agree with you :D


Like Al Holbert w/ Porsche and Dan Gurney w/ Toyota (back it the old days) drive and prepare their cars and did very well for the Factory cars in the States. Might be getting off topic here...sorry.

It would be nice if we had some answers "why" the US tuners don't use the FMIC? From what I have seen. The tuners in Japan started with SMIC and use front mounts now. No doubt, that is for a reason .... are they that much better? It seems most of the heat soak issues with the SMIC happen during traffic (not race related) or are they
both good enough for us? It seems the pro teams in Japan use V and H- mounts, C-west with the FMIC but, in the States they still use the SMIC. WHY??

I will stop here because, I don't have the answers...... just wondering
:confused:

Again, interesting topic. Always enjoy hearing your veiws SleepR1 :)

Just a few interjections here...I just installed a GReddy two row for my big single, replacing a CWR LARGE stock mount. I've had the GReddy in for a few weeks now. I also have a vented hood, Knight Sports design. Differentiating from the original poster, I noticed my two-row R-spec core was MUCH thinner than the CWR IC core which measures 3.5" off hand. The two row, I think, is about 2.75 to 3" thick at most. My fluidyne is thicker. Core length, naturally, is much longer. So how do you like them? Thick or long. Snicker.

For those that are using the PFC to monitor intake air temps, it's "sort of" innacurate. You'll see a larger drop in IAT temps by eliminating the coolant running through the throttle body (not recommended in cold climates!) than switching to a front mount. I believe the original poster used an aftermarket thermocouple to get measurements, albeit in a similar location. So the temps you're seeing aren't exactly accurate. Which scares me.

My experiences. Yes, coolant temps, initially, were high. Why? Air in the system. I now have them down to where they were before which is usually around 87 celcius for me. I've burped the system repeatedly and no problems, even at low/high speeds. I have not sealed the radiator with ducting yet and the AC condenser is still in front of the radiator. I however, did not replace the PS steering loop. I have a 96 (made in December of 95) and for the life of me, the GReddy supplied line would not fit. I'd like to see a pic if someone has it! All I had to do was unbolt it and reposition in a few key places. Works fine.

Besides the front bumper, there's no hacking with the GReddy FMIC. I have an aftermarket front end, meaning no bumper support, and thus, installation was a bit easier. Due to a mixup, I received the two row instead of the three row if you're curious. If you have Widefoot swaybar mounts, be prepared to fab up two brackets to hold the radiator at the bottom. The Widefoot tounges aren't as long as stock and thus requre an extension easily accomplished with some semi-thick aluminum. Use a dremel to cut it.

The FMIC does cool better, no doubt. It isn't a huge difference, especially at speed. I tend to see a 15 degree difference between ambient and IAT's with the front mount.

One thing I have noticed, I pull less vacuum with the front mount. Additionally, I had to adjust the boost solenoid duty cycle up a few percentages with the FMIC to hit the same boost level. I have not ruled out a defective GReddy Type S BOV on that last issue however, and it's being replaced with a proper Type R. Heck, the motor could be getting a bit soft too. But let's not go that route.

Spool up seems to take a hair longer. Might be the BOV. The original 3 row 19R core had much shorter piping than the newer redesigned units which air enters/leaves at the bottom rather than the top.

As for Japan, MOST of the better tuning shops use a variation on the SMIC. RE-A uses a front mount and they're still the fastest, although they offer alternatives. RE-A is godlike to me, so Inukai, when I'm in Japan in August, you have to get me in to meet him! Anyway..... Panspeed uses a horizontal mount. Knightsports uses a V-mount. All the drag cars use a front mount. Look through all of the Japanese RX7 Magazine editions and you'll see what I mean. There's a lot of diversity. Which reminds me, I have to order the latest edition! Most of the road race cars use a variation of the the SMIC or put the radiator and IC on different planes with their "exhaust" pointed in opposite directions. I'd think modifications to the bottom of the car would be necessary to equalize airflow and eliminate pressure differences behind each unit. Air takes the path of least resistance. Although....a certain RX7 tuner told me that some resistance created by the radiator fins helps cooling, as in airflow that's horizontal to the direction of the radiator fins won't cool as well as one that's been tilted slightly, so the air has some initial resistance. Dunno if it's true, just thought I'd pass it along for discussion.

Anyway, my wholly unscientific study (just observation mostly) of my particular change to FMIC leads me to believe it wasn't worth the time and effort to switch. Of course I now have room to put a filter on the T78, LOL. The CWR is a really good IC as are other similar units, and the lucky bastard that purchased it from me is getting a great IC unit and a very good deal.

I also think part of the advantage to the FMIC's are the cast end tanks that GReddy, HKS and Apexi use. I have no idea what cores they use or how well they're matched to the "everyone" setup. Obviously, the best solution is your own design mated to your specs with cast end tanks. Not exactly realistic. We all tend to believe that the Spearco IC cores are the best (ok, maybe not all of us) but I'm sure the big companies in Japan are using fairly efficient cores. Good topic. Two thumbs up!

Hi SleepR1

We can have a good talk about RX7.
I will go to the States this year.
NY, Chicago, LA, Vancouber and SFO.
We will meet very soon.

By the way,

Horizontal Mount is the best for circle track FD and FC.
But it is very expensive.
These days in Japan, almost all the fast track FD and FC have HMIC.

Circle track FDs don't have big turbine.
T04, TD06, TD67 and so on.
Those cars don't need big intercoolers.
Most of them have 2 rows.
Circle track FDs need good response.
Then, 2 rows are better than 3 rows.
And HMIC is much better concerning water temp cooling.
Besides, it gives a car good handling.
HMIC reduces the overhang weight compared with FMIC.
As for RE-A products, air-flow is considered.
RE-A HMIC and AD hood9 gives a car good front downforce.

All the RE-A products are race proven.

As for Drag, FMIC is thought to be best.
Drag FD and FC have a big turbine.
T51, TD88 GT3037 twin and so on.
Those cars need big intercoolers.

A friend of mine, Okamoto and Uchino, who are the fastest
FD and FC dragger.
Both two friends have 4 row FMIC.
Their cars are over 650 PS.
HMIC is too small for their cars.

I hope I can help you.
Ask me anything.
If there is anything I don't know, I will ask Mr.A.

Thanks

does the pettit work with an efini y-pipe?

Not without hacking the cross-over pipe...

Interesting about the HMIC. Chuck Huang is designing one, but hasn't quite finished the product. Go to http://www.rotaryextreme.com/product.html for more info.

The HMIC or V-mount IC/Rad would be the way to go for dedicated road racing FD Rx7s, huh?

By "circle track" I presume you mean a "road racing track"; a track with many turns, but completes a circuit?

In my case, my Rx7 will see the track much less than before (when it was mostly stock).

Before I die, I plan on having a dedicated road circuit car, like the SR3 Supersport from Radical Motorsports UK http://www.radicalmotorsport.com/

OR perhaps a Diasio D962R (powered by a Rotorsports Racing 12A Bridgeport motor) http://www.diasio.com/d962rext.html

BTW, inukai, I've been trying to find a FD Type RS/RZ spare wheel/tire. Jesse Lau had no luck finding the spare wheel/tire. Perhaps you can bring one with you on the plane from Japan ;)

Best of luck in the coming year!

Hi SleepR1

I can find FD Type RS/RZ spare wheel/tire easily.
Beacause Most of the FD owners changed their wheels.
And Most of them don't have enough room for keeping them. HaHa

I will find them and bring them to the States.

I found
 

My friend has it.
Is it ?

inukai
 

no, I'm referring to the 1999-2001 RS/RZ temporary spare wheel/tire that goes in the trunk spare tire well :)