FJO Injector Driver Installation
 

I am trying to do a clean install of the FJO driver and want to use the Banzai harness I have on hand.

So I want to see if I properly understand. On the harness the 12v Constant that I should splice to is pin 4L, the injector trigger for the rear rotor sec inj. is pin 4Z and for the front 4X

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...verInstall.jpg

Am I missing anything else other than the need to ground the driver?

FJO Manual:

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/in...&%20wiring.pdf

I know this is for the old version so about half the wires are removed but I cannot find the never manual which I have online.

Its been almost a year since I did mine. The one I used was the newer model that combines the injector power leads and then has 4 trigger wires for your injectors. I am using stock pri. and 1680 sec. and have all run through the FJO. I will try to find the post that recommended doing it that way. The post stated that the FJO can tell if it is high or low impedance and adjust accordingly. It has been that way for a year with no ill effects. I ended up mounting the box inside the cab on the top back part of the power fc.

Here is the link. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=fjo+driver
Crispeed recommended running low and high through the fjo.

No offense but I can't understand how your post answers my question at all.

I have read those threads and still cannot see why I would run a saturated injector by P&H? I know that Crispeed recommended this years ago but an explanation would have been nice.

If the box fails, all your injectors die instead of just your secondaries. FJO themselves recommend you hook it up to all 4 injectors. If you later decide you want do run low impedance on the primaries, you don't have to go back in there to rewire.

thewird

It answered your question by showing you another way to connect it. The way you are showing is not wrong, the way that I have done mine is not wrong. The thread I pointed to gives the full reason for running all injectors through the FJO. In one of the threads ,on the same topic, it shows an Email from FJO stating the reason for running all the injectors through the box which is the same as (THE WIRD) said. I guess I should have explained it in more detail.

Good stuff, thought about it and yeap it is more logical so it is done.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...7Single056.jpg

Primary Injectors have the red heat shrink Rears have the black. Power is tapped onto the 4L.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...7Single055.jpg

Finally it worked out pretty well except I inversed the order a little bit.

I wanted to do:

Orange-4X
Yellow-4Z
Blue-4W
Green-4Y

But during the process Orange and Yellow got swapped so now it is:

Orange-Sec Inj Rear (#2)-4Z
Yellow-Sec Inj Front(#1)-4X
Blue-Pri Front (#1)-4W
Green-Pri Rear (#2)-4Y

Hopefully it can be a reference for anyone who wants to do this in the future and props to Banzai Racing made me feel alot better having this on the bench and cutting it up then cutting up my brand new harness:nod:

Looks good Alex :icon_tup:

For those who want to use their existing wiring harness, here is how I hooked mine up:

You bridge the box into your fuel injector wiring so that it's effectively between the wire running to the ecu connector and the wire running to the injector.

*Orange wires on FJO Box------>bridged into Light Green/Red tracer wire on large yellow ecu connecter (this is the front primary injector)
*Yellow wires on FJO Box------>bridged into Light Green/Black tracer wire on large yellow ecu connecter (this is the rear primary injector)
*Blue wires on FJO Box------>bridged into Light Green/White tracer wire on large yellow ecu connecter (this is the front secondary injector)
*Green wires on FJO Box------>bridged into Light Green/no tracer wire on large yellow ecu connecter (this is the rear secondary injector)

Connect the solid colored FJO box wire to the ECU plug-side of the oem harness wire and the white/colored stripe FJO box wire to the injector-side of the oem harness wire.

You can get switched power from the blue connector on the engine harness---- it's a thicker black wire with yellow tracer. Splice into this wire (so you have a Y-connection basically).

For the FJO box I used the ecu ground, the threaded post on the top ecu bracket that takes the 10mm head nut.

I left the resistors wired in near the injector plugs under the UIM for now until I can remove them prior to a tuning session I have Saturday. Even leaving the resistors in, my AFRs richened up by one full point to a point and a half. I'd imagine once the resistors are removed I'll have even more injector capacity freed up.

Thanks to Chris Ott at www.RX7.com, he sold me the box and provided great tech support over the phone pre-install. They stock the unit and had it out to me in the mail very quickly from Texas :nod::icon_tup:

There is a major problem with what you have pictured. The injector wires are at the other end of connector #4. You have soldered into wires A,B,C,D not W,X,Y,Z. You have cut all the ECU grounds. The alphabet goes backward on the ECU connectors

DO NOT install what you have there.

On a side note it is a good thing that you didn't hack up your new engine harness :)

Chris, the FJO box wires into the injector ground wires..... i'm not familiar with your jumper harness and have never had one in front of me, but if those wires correlate with the ones I listed above, then it's done correctly. If they don't, then it's not :)

I know exactly where the FJO installs (considering I have installed dozens of them), I am also exceeding familiar with the pinouts for the ECU and how the injectors are controlled. The patch harness is straight through, nothing mystical about it.

Dradon does not have the FJO connected to the injectors, so it is not done correctly. As I already said in the post above the injector wires are at the other end of the #4 connector. He has cut all the ECU grounds, not the injector grounds.

Look at the wire diagram. It have be a little confusing. The #4 connector is far left on the ECU and the alphabet runs backward.

Completely correct sir don't know how I didn't notice that one, corrected the problem and am taking out the entire harness to check all of my wiring.

If I would have been cutting up the engine harness I would have seen the colors hehe.

Good info, I'm doing mine this weekend.

Fixed thank you everyone for the help a little uglier but at least it will work.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...7Single058.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...7Single057.jpg

dradon03 have you installed this yet? And if so how's it working out for you?

I tried using 4L for power but it doesn't look like the FJO box is getting any or just too little power. (Car starts up just fine w/o the FJO box and patch harness but when I tired with it it never started up.)

What have other people done, run a fused/relayed line or tap into an existing source on the harness?

Did you read post #8 above?

I did but first I'd rather not hack up my harness anymore than it already is, and second I'm not sure which connector you were talking about. I do see a blue one but the four main ecu connectors are yellow.

Never saw the reply but hope this can help!

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...7/INJPower.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d5...verInstall.jpg

I think the next single turbo build I do I'm going to use the ID2000's because they are high impedence and have a much more modern design. That would eliminate the need for an FJO box.

Sorry to bump this up, but I just purchased my fuel system and it came with resistors. I was told that I should purchase the FJO Injector driver and now this is the 2nd time someone I see said they are going to use ID2000 injectors. By getting the ID2000 injectors, will this eliminate the need for resisters? Also, will these fit in aftermarket primary/secondary rails?

If both injectors are high impedance, you don't need the fjo driver. So it depends on which fuel system you got. Did it replace only the secondary rail and injectors or both the primary and secondary.

I now run id1000 and id2000 so I removed my fjo driver as its no longer needed.

thewird

The ID1000/ID2000 injectors are adapted versions of the newer Bosch EV14 generation of high impedence injector. The 1680's are Bosch EV1 style, an older design that requires a low impedence solenoid coil. The body and the actual valve inside are different.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1280019973

I got a kit put together by A-spec which is basically a KG Parts kit. Here are pictures.

running 850/1680 injectors and it has resistors so I'm guessing that they are low imp.

Would the ID injectors work with my fuel rails? Also, I notice they only have 725, 1000 and 2000cc injectors. What would I need to run?

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...4/c0a5da1a.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...4/ace38573.jpg

Yup, those are all low impedance. The 715/2000cc combo is fine for most people and has no problems with idle. It depends on your turbo and power goals. They can be ordered for you setup, you need the purple tophats. Also, the advantage of the injector dyanics injectors is that you can input the exact and correct injector lag settings in your ecu.

thewird

thewird, do the ID injectors install the same as older EV1 style with those rails? Do you use the little metal spacer thing to make it seal? Does anything need to be changed or is it exactly like installing the older style top feeds?