well! finally bought my FD..not fast yet..more like needs a load of repairs...salvage title baby 5000$ missing front body paneling but thats not a big deal now is it?

I was thinking about spending 15 for a good 7 but decided to buy one salvageable with a good motor / tranny / interior, wouldnt matter if the front/rear bumper is messed up along with the fenders because they're going to get replaced anyway right?

well with my extra 10 i need some advice on how to spend first time with a rotary.

I know to get the motor ported, now i was thinking about either a partial bridge or a full bridge or a agressive street. which would be best for something that wants to make only about 410rwhp? i was thinking agressive street..

here i are the mods i have planned PLEASE give me opinions / suggestions / changes on my list

looks :
border type I kit
dupont arctic white paint

engine:
port (PLEASE recoomend which)
single conversion leaning towards the XS T04E kit
APEXi powerfc w/ commander and get the XS tune on it
greddy fmic
3mm seals
dp mp exhaust etc.,
1600cc injectors
cosmo pump

suspension:
really on you guys..dunno whats good for a 7
that about sucks up all the cash i had for buying a good FD...any other suggestions changes are welcome and needed also greatly appreciated

 

How's about this:

Looks:
Stock (they're damned sexy already -- see if you can find some used body panels? )
dupont arctic white paint

engine:
Aggressive Street Port
XS TO4E kit
APEXi powerfc w/ commander and XS tune
greddy fmic
3mm seals
full exhaust
1600cc injectors (may be a bit hard to tune w/ the power fc, but people have managed it)
cosmo pump (??)

Sounds pretty good overall!

Have fun,
Manolis

 

Change that Agressive street port to a full BP and change the turbo to a T88...

j/k what you have in mind sounds good..

 

looks:
Whatever you want. Taste is subjective.

Engine:
Street/Exhaust port
single turbo T-04S
APEXi powerfc w/ commander and get the XS tune on it
greddy fmic
2mm Hurley 2 piece apex seals
dp mp exhaust etc.,
1600cc injectors
wahlboro pump

suspension: DON'T GET TEIN!!! But do get full adjustable.

 

Just a question, you are planning on:

1. rebuilding the engine with porting
2. going single turbo
3. getting a full body kit
4. getting a new paint job

all for $10k?

 

Mahjik is right. I cost about $8k-9k for a single conversion. That is turbo kit, fmic, injectors, ecu, tune, fuel pump, (I know I am forgetting something). Then on top of all that you want a $3k paint job, body panels that cost "X" number of dollars, and a port job. I think you are looking at 15k-20k.

 

dont forget the FCdatalogit if youre gonna stick with the powerfc. . . its the shiznit. haha. if you are replacing the engine and ecu, then you should also replace the engine wiring harness also. how about the 99 spec body kit all the way around!!! its damn sexy. i agree with jspecracer7 with the 2mm hurley seals. you get more pressure to the rotorhousings with a skinnier seal. . . and if you tune it correctly you wont have any problems with it blowing. 3mm seals will blow almost as easily as 2mm. hurley also has new side seals too. they are supposed to be way better than the older ones. how about the nippondenso 500hp fuel pump. . . it should be good. i cant remember which one is cheaper. i know the walbro pump is cheaper than any though. if you are gonna go with a fmic then you should look into a fluidiyne radiator too. youre gonna need the extra cooling with an fmic.

 

well the paint job isnt an issue because i'll be doing that myself, and have access to paint cheap (wholesale price)
and a booth to do it in..

and yeah i know the conversion is about 8-9 k...
intercooler about 1000 ems is about a 1000 turbos about 2500 tuning port etc., i might be able to get a free port job also....so i dunno..

the engine is in perfect running condition only 53300 original miles! so i kinda lucked out on that

thanks for anyones input.

how is the mazdaspeed suspension, toe link/ rear arms / strutbars / coilovers ?

 

Yea i to would like to know about the suspension.. I really dont know what is very good with the FD.. How come you said dont get tein? I have heard some very good things about them but then again i dont know about suspension..

Body:
Stock

Engine:
Street Port
RX6
PFC
Custom IC
2mm Hurly 2 peice
DP,MP,CB
550,1300
Supra, nippondenso, or others Really up to you on fuel pump.

Ur looking at 10k right here not to mention all the other stuff you will want and need.
Guages, Hose-Job, Maintaince, New tires and possiabily wheels, AST, Radiator or possiabliy Evans, .... This is all that i can think of off the top of my mind and im sure im fogetting something.

 

Agreed although a set of side skirts can't hurt.

 

I said don't get Tein because some of my Friend's have gotten that particular brand and have had trouble adjusting it. Something about the metals that they used.

The Nippondenso is a great pump, but for the price of one, you could get 2 wahlboro pumps and have 510 lph!!! That is the route I'm taking since I'm eventually going T-66, but for his applications, twin FD pumps or even just one wahlboro pump is suffecient.

He won't need a Hose job though. Once you go single turbo, take the upper intake manifold off, and take all that crap out!!! You'll need a vacuum hose going to the wastegate, one going to the MAP sensor, and if you have them, one going to the boost gauge and one to the fuel pressure regulator.

 

how is the apexi RX6 kit ? is it good?

how is it compared to the XS kit?

 

If the engine is already in perfect condition then I would just stick with the stock ports and not rebuild the engine. Instead spend the money on making sure the body is perfect. You can make 410HP on stock ports with the right turbo, or, if you shoot just a little lower, say 370HP (trust me this will still be fast as hell), get a small single, on stock ports, you should be able to do that easily. And you'll retain the good mileage, emissions, and idle characteristics of the stock ports. Not to mention you should reserve some money for random stuff, like tires, pads, etc. You never know what will come up. Good luck and post pics when its done!

 

okay well i think i phrased that wrong...

for a ~53000 mile motor its in perfect condition =)

here is my planned setup

power fc w/ commander
t04s
3 row fmic
cosmo or dual FD haven't decided yet
mp / dp
1300cc injectors
profec B boost controller
hks hiper exhaust
mazdaspeed clutch

I NEED HELP WITH SUSPENSION?! no idea whats good for the 7 i had Tein HEs on my s13....they worked pretty well but jspec said not to get Tein ...hmm...any suggestions? *F&F voice* Koni Adjustables? * lol...

lookwise im still deciding between the cwest front half under spoiler...and getting the little space between the spoiler and the stock lip molded together and cwest side skirts w/ stock rear bumper cuz i dont like any of the kits out there for the rear...or the border type 1 kit front and sides no rear again...

 

I'm not sure if the Cosmo pump will be enough.

Dual FD pump's can be done, but it's not the easiest. What you will have to do to run 2 FD pumps is leave the stock one in place. Then take the second FD pump and connect it to the 1st pump with a hose clamp. Take the return line and connect it to the second pump outlet. Then follow the return line/primary fuel line and connect them together with a large "Y". They'll go to you're injectors from here. Out of the fuel pressure regulator, you'll need to run -6 fuel line(w/ AN fittings) back to the the fuel tank. Drill a hole in the fuel pump access panel and run the -6 back into it for your return line. Not the easiest way to do it...however, you'll have 340 lph.

The easiest would be the Walboro/Nippondenso fuel pump's. They're both rated for 400+ HP and will hold a T-04S just fine.

 

well then ! nippondenso/walboro it is....

i know walboro is the cheapest...but does it fall under the ' you get what you pay for ' mantra?

 

There is nothing wrong with the TEIN type HA's.. I have them and love them! It is very simple to raise and lower the car and if u want to change the dampner from hard to soft or vice versa, just pop your hood and turn a ****. It cant get much easier than that. I dont know why your friends would say it is hard to adjust them

I heard XS is moving and they are backed up for 2 months...it may be kinda hard to get them to tune your PFC.

If your gonna get a kit, you are most likely gonna need rims...those stock 16's aren't gonna cut with a bodykit.

 

hmm i know...but its so hard to choose rims..i've got it down to 3 or 4 different models..

enkei RPM2
RH c5s
Gram 57 pro
Volk TE37Mags ( in another lifetime lol)

realisticly it'll prob be the 57 pros though.