FD hurt, I'm fine - was in accident yesterday
#51
Originally Posted by jimlab
And hey, learn to identify actual name calling. Typically, it follows a pattern like "You are a ___________."
"I think you should eat a nice fresh bag of ****" is merely my personal opinion. Of course, my personal opinion now is that you should supersize it.
"I think you should eat a nice fresh bag of ****" is merely my personal opinion. Of course, my personal opinion now is that you should supersize it.
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Uh ohs....
#52
sold--no longer in debt
Originally Posted by jimlab
BTW, welcome to the forum. I can see already that you're going to be a great addition to the knowledge pool...
#53
Slave2TheFD
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The Honda drivers insurance accepted liability. I am awaiting their appraisal. In the meantime, my insurance company estimated the *visual* damage at $8700!! That's not counting anything under the bumper skin etc. I sent the appraiser receipts of a bunch of my work on it including my new engine to try and bring the value of the car up, he said middle blue book was $8000?! WTF?
#54
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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that's funny.
I asked state farm what my value was if my 230k miles FD got totaled and they said almost 14,000!!!!
SF is the ****.
that's not including the mods on the car that they will pay for. Can we say another $5k?
I asked state farm what my value was if my 230k miles FD got totaled and they said almost 14,000!!!!
SF is the ****.
that's not including the mods on the car that they will pay for. Can we say another $5k?
#55
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by Jedon
The Honda drivers insurance accepted liability. I am awaiting their appraisal. In the meantime, my insurance company estimated the *visual* damage at $8700!! That's not counting anything under the bumper skin etc. I sent the appraiser receipts of a bunch of my work on it including my new engine to try and bring the value of the car up, he said middle blue book was $8000?! WTF?
#56
Slave2TheFD
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I just need to keep the value 30% higher than the damage estimate so they don't total it.
If they value it at $14K then the damage could be up to $9800 before they consider it a loss. Considering it was looking like $8700 at a minimum before internal damage, I'm afraid they just might total it :-(
If they value it at $14K then the damage could be up to $9800 before they consider it a loss. Considering it was looking like $8700 at a minimum before internal damage, I'm afraid they just might total it :-(
#57
Slave2TheFD
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kbb.com
Kelly Blue Book Trade In Value
California • September 24, 2004
1993 Mazda RX-7 Coupe 2D
Engine: Twin Turbo Rotary
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Drive: Rear Wheel Drive
Mileage: 86,120
Equipment
Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Cruise Control
AM/FM Stereo
Cassette
Single Compact Disc
ABS (4-Wheel)
Premium Wheels
Consumer Rated Condition: Good
"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. The paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. In states where rust is a problem, this should be very minimal, and a deduction should be made to correct it. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A clean title history is assumed. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail; however major reconditioning should be deducted from the value. Most recent model cars owned by consumers fall into this category.
Trade-In Value List Your Car For Sale Online $9,070
Trade-in value represents what you might expect to receive from a dealer for this consumer owned vehicle. Keep in mind that the dealer must then absorb the cost of making the vehicle ready for sale, advertising, sales commissions, arranging financing and insurance and standing behind the vehicle for any mechanical or safety problems.
Kelly Blue Book Trade In Value
California • September 24, 2004
1993 Mazda RX-7 Coupe 2D
Engine: Twin Turbo Rotary
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Drive: Rear Wheel Drive
Mileage: 86,120
Equipment
Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Cruise Control
AM/FM Stereo
Cassette
Single Compact Disc
ABS (4-Wheel)
Premium Wheels
Consumer Rated Condition: Good
"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. The paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. In states where rust is a problem, this should be very minimal, and a deduction should be made to correct it. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A clean title history is assumed. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail; however major reconditioning should be deducted from the value. Most recent model cars owned by consumers fall into this category.
Trade-In Value List Your Car For Sale Online $9,070
Trade-in value represents what you might expect to receive from a dealer for this consumer owned vehicle. Keep in mind that the dealer must then absorb the cost of making the vehicle ready for sale, advertising, sales commissions, arranging financing and insurance and standing behind the vehicle for any mechanical or safety problems.
#58
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by Jedon
The Honda drivers insurance accepted liability. I am awaiting their appraisal. In the meantime, my insurance company estimated the *visual* damage at $8700!! That's not counting anything under the bumper skin etc. I sent the appraiser receipts of a bunch of my work on it including my new engine to try and bring the value of the car up, he said middle blue book was $8000?! WTF?
In Oregon, probably the same in Cal the insurance is responsible for replacing your car with "like kind and quality", not bluebook value. This is good for the insurance company in many cases since a lot of cars don't sell on the market for bluebook. Some cars like Hondas, Toyotas, etc sell for book or higher in many places, so it is good for the insured person.
Well that is hard to establish with a modded car of any type. But going just on a stock FDs value I'd say $8000 bluebook value, OK show me where I can find a running FD for $8000? Do a nationwide search not just a local search.
You'll get what you need for your car, it'll just take some wit, time and professionalism. Don't yell at the adjuster, be nice even if you feel like yelling.
$8700, damn I was low.
#59
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Mine was determined by market value.
I believe they look at www.traderonline.com
Thank god they don't know about the rx7forum, or we all be fucked...........
I believe they look at www.traderonline.com
Thank god they don't know about the rx7forum, or we all be fucked...........
#61
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by Jedon
kbb.com
Kelly Blue Book Trade In Value
California • September 24, 2004
1993 Mazda RX-7 Coupe 2D
Engine: Twin Turbo Rotary
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Drive: Rear Wheel Drive
Mileage: 86,120
Equipment
Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Cruise Control
AM/FM Stereo
Cassette
Single Compact Disc
ABS (4-Wheel)
Premium Wheels
Consumer Rated Condition: Good
"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. The paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. In states where rust is a problem, this should be very minimal, and a deduction should be made to correct it. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A clean title history is assumed. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail; however major reconditioning should be deducted from the value. Most recent model cars owned by consumers fall into this category.
Trade-In Value List Your Car For Sale Online $9,070
Trade-in value represents what you might expect to receive from a dealer for this consumer owned vehicle. Keep in mind that the dealer must then absorb the cost of making the vehicle ready for sale, advertising, sales commissions, arranging financing and insurance and standing behind the vehicle for any mechanical or safety problems.
Kelly Blue Book Trade In Value
California • September 24, 2004
1993 Mazda RX-7 Coupe 2D
Engine: Twin Turbo Rotary
Trans: 5 Speed Manual
Drive: Rear Wheel Drive
Mileage: 86,120
Equipment
Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Cruise Control
AM/FM Stereo
Cassette
Single Compact Disc
ABS (4-Wheel)
Premium Wheels
Consumer Rated Condition: Good
"Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. The paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. In states where rust is a problem, this should be very minimal, and a deduction should be made to correct it. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A clean title history is assumed. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail; however major reconditioning should be deducted from the value. Most recent model cars owned by consumers fall into this category.
Trade-In Value List Your Car For Sale Online $9,070
Trade-in value represents what you might expect to receive from a dealer for this consumer owned vehicle. Keep in mind that the dealer must then absorb the cost of making the vehicle ready for sale, advertising, sales commissions, arranging financing and insurance and standing behind the vehicle for any mechanical or safety problems.
Private Party value represents what you might expect to pay for a used car when purchasing from a private party. It may also represent the value you might expect to receive when selling your own used car to another private party.
^I'd say you should use this listing with the insurance company at the very least...
#62
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
That sucks. At least it looks like the damage isnt toooo bad, probably not much structural any ways.
Is that your computer strapped down in the passenger seat? How did it fare? Good thing it was wearing a seat belt.
Is that your computer strapped down in the passenger seat? How did it fare? Good thing it was wearing a seat belt.
#66
Slave2TheFD
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Buyback is $2550
And yes, that is my computer in the front seat. The crash caused the peice of crap Maxtor 160GB drive to fail and it took me a week and a half to get my data back.
And yes, that is my computer in the front seat. The crash caused the peice of crap Maxtor 160GB drive to fail and it took me a week and a half to get my data back.
#67
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
I'd buy it back and be done with it. $16K for a stock FD is good I know yours is modded but if you buy it back it doesn't matter. I could have that car completely fixed, stripped to metal, repainted for somewhere in the neighborhood of $7-8K including parts. It would be a better paint job that what was on it (note the cracking paint on hood and bumper = not stock).
You end up with a nicer looking FD and have a few extra bucks in your pocket.
You end up with a nicer looking FD and have a few extra bucks in your pocket.
#69
Slave2TheFD
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Thanks Jeff. I'm planning on making it my project car (like it wasn't before??) and using the money they give me to 1. pay off the loan, 2. buy back the car, 3. pay off a high interest credit card and 4. use the rest as a down on a AWD car as a daily driver since it's already snowed twice here. Hmm, WRX, STi, EVO, Mazda6 MPS AWD?
Hehe that cat is fine, although it also could have been the racoons.
Hehe that cat is fine, although it also could have been the racoons.
#70
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by Jedon
Thanks Jeff. I'm planning on making it my project car (like it wasn't before??) and using the money they give me to 1. pay off the loan, 2. buy back the car, 3. pay off a high interest credit card and 4. use the rest as a down on a AWD car as a daily driver since it's already snowed twice here. Hmm, WRX, STi, EVO, Mazda6 MPS AWD?
Hehe that cat is fine, although it also could have been the racoons.
Hehe that cat is fine, although it also could have been the racoons.
I'm going to blab here so forgive me in advance if it offends you. Don't buy a hot AWD car, get something that is "slightly" practical. Sounds like you don't need two high HP toyz. Get a 2.5 RS or something. I think you can get a pretty nice 2.5 RS for $10K.
More torque, less turbo hassle.
#71
Originally Posted by turbojeff
I'm thinking you've moved from San Diego?
I'm going to blab here so forgive me in advance if it offends you. Don't buy a hot AWD car, get something that is "slightly" practical. Sounds like you don't need two high HP toyz. Get a 2.5 RS or something. I think you can get a pretty nice 2.5 RS for $10K.
More torque, less turbo hassle.
I'm going to blab here so forgive me in advance if it offends you. Don't buy a hot AWD car, get something that is "slightly" practical. Sounds like you don't need two high HP toyz. Get a 2.5 RS or something. I think you can get a pretty nice 2.5 RS for $10K.
More torque, less turbo hassle.
#72
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Jeff...is a WRX a hassle? I have no idea what kind of reliability issues they've had...
Depending on your personality type you can't help but modding the WRX, then you'll have another high HP finicky car...
#73
Originally Posted by turbojeff
Depending on your personality type you can't help but modding the WRX, then you'll have another high HP finicky car...
#74
Slave2TheFD
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Yeah I'v been considering a Legacy GT since they are pretty close to an STI but quite a bit more practical, then I considered a 2.5 RS, then I considered some even older subaru as a winter beater, then I thought maybe I'll just put winter tires on my Geo Storm.
I got the FD back finally, I fought hard with the insurance people and they are going to give me $18K for it. After I buy it back and pay off the loan I'll have $14K, I'll use $8K to pay off a credit card and then bank the rest for now since I don't have a job.
Now I'll start the rebuilding process, funded from selling more of my parts from the last one I totalled...
I'll need to make a parts list and start aquiring the goods... hood, fenders, bumper etc. A front clip would do the trick, someone else can take the engine.
I got the FD back finally, I fought hard with the insurance people and they are going to give me $18K for it. After I buy it back and pay off the loan I'll have $14K, I'll use $8K to pay off a credit card and then bank the rest for now since I don't have a job.
Now I'll start the rebuilding process, funded from selling more of my parts from the last one I totalled...
I'll need to make a parts list and start aquiring the goods... hood, fenders, bumper etc. A front clip would do the trick, someone else can take the engine.
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