Does anyone have any recent experience with the fast reacting intake sensors? Seems as though the "craze" about them were a couple years ago. Anyone know where to buy at a reasonable price or have an extra new one? I would rather not solder the pigtail connector to the existing harness so I guess I am mainly looking for the proper Mazda connector so that I can make a little plug and play adapter. Any Input?

Also, the Triumph sensors that I saw they used were green. Are they black now and slightly different? I think this is the part number T1290510

 

Check here

http://wannaspeed.com/home/9-fast-reacting-iat.html

There are lots of threads on these sensors.

 

Omg do not pay 90 bucks for a air temp sensor.... This is the intake temp sensor I use on all builds I compete and it is the fast acting sensor.


http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-116.html

 

Exactly! He used to sell them for like $40. All I need is the proper connector to connect to the oem. I can get the rest of the stuff for way less than $90. Thx for the link btw

 

Has anyone confirmed the GM IAT has similar resistance values to the stock sensor? That's why people use the Triumph sensor, because its resistance curve is very close to the stock sensor. Most of the time it's for a Power FC application which uses stock sensor curves. The stock sensor values are listed as:

2.2-2.7 kOhm @ 20C/68F
0.29-0.35 kOhm @80C/176F

According to page F-169 of the service manual.

while the GM sensor is listed as:

48 degrees F 7kohm
87 degrees F 1.93kohm
146 degrees F 0.56kohm

It also has a different thread than stock. If you're using an ECU that can support the GM sensor's resistance curve, go for it. If you are just dropping it into your typical Power FC powered engine, well I haven't seen any evidence that it is a direct replacement in terms of its sensor calibration.

 

I got my triumph sensor on eBay new for $30. I went to the junk yard and got a Bosch injector connector from a Volvo and the mating connector for the FD harness came from my deleted fog light connector.

I did find that mine is a little off (on my PFC) from a lab grade thermocouple at higher temps. It was also on the edge of the Mazda resistance values iirc.

 

That's why you should use a better ECU lol

 

Good to know that the fog light connector works. The injector pigtail can come from parts stores, or are available online easily. Just tell them you want a square Bosch injector connector. They're very common.

yeah but is it noticeably more off from a lab-grade thermocouple than the stock sensor is in brand new condition?

yeah, having an ECU that can have different sensor curves than stock obviates the need for the Triumph sensor.

 

I sell the fast-acting intake temp sensor for $75 with connector. I consider it a must on any modified rx-7, especially when running water injection. The stock sensor just doesn't respond fast enough and the ecu does not compensate with the correct amount of fuel. This can lead to detonation and blown motors. I use the closed element version, as I have had a few of the open element sensors fail. It doesn't look like that gm sensor will thread in. This one does.

 

What would you say about the gm one ihor? My uim is threaded for gm sensor already. Any alternative for that?

 

Thats exactly what I was thinking, using a foglight connector. Glad that works. I just bought a bosch connector from ebay for a few bucks. What triumph sensor do you have? The green one looks like it would be less prone to heat soak but i think it was replaced by the black one. Is it easy to connect the foglight connector to the bosch or did you just solder or splice it?

 

I only use the gm sensor with Haltech installations.

 

I ran the curves on the GM part a few years ago. It is different; however, it can be rescaled with the addition of a simple shunt resistor (e.g., parallel across the sensor leads) whereas it becomes equivalent to the Mazda part. If you want to do this, you can use a small resistor with a value of 10k--that's 10,000 ohms--to 12k for the shunt and you'll be good to go.

I've been running this setup for years and it works fine if you want or need to emulate the stock sensor's curve.

The GM sensor has a standard 3/8" taper pipe thread and is NOT compatible with the stock sensor's thread. If you relocate the sensor, you can make the thread whatever you want and 3/8 pipe taps are ubiquitous.

I've been running the GM sensor for years now and it's worked fine. What I did to integrate it was remove the AWS boss from the underside of the UIM (using my trusty Sawzall) and ran a 3/8" pipe tap through the remaining hole--(it's already the correct size to receive the tap and doesn't need to be drilled). Installed a GM sensor with the requisite shunt resistor and it works like a champ. (I should note I prefer the sensor's response in the UIM aws location as opposed its previous location in the Greddy elbow.)

 

As to location for the IAT I want to chime in. Has anyone seen a problem with heat soak from the UIM? I have been thinking of trying to mount it in the cold side of the IC exit pipe ( I do not run AI so I do not "need" it in the UIM or elbow)

 

personally purchased from here...shipped quick and was brand new. Sourced a connector from a junk yard since the connector is very common like mentioned before. I also sourced a male end so that I could plug into the factory harness.

T1290510 Triumph Sensor, Intake Air Temperature.

 

Is there any reason not to run a fast acting Intake sensor? Say for a more stock build? I have not decided if I want to run the PFC of my stock ECU yet.

 

I don't know if you would see a benefit as much with a stock ECU. It may have some. The PFC you can really see the difference, but on the stock ECU ignorance is bliss .

Dale

 

That’s kinda what I’m getting at. I don’t want to have to pull the uim again to swap sensors.

 

I have one and noticed the difference when I installed it. I still have the stock ECU. Response seems better in situations where the intake temperature is changing quickly, like after heat soak and starting driving in cool ambient. Has worked well for 11 years now.

 

This is the answer I was hoping for. It seems it may be a win/win situation. I’ll take it.

 

The biggest problem using the fast acting sensor with the stock ECU or even the PFC preloaded map is that their intake temp VS injector table is skewed to correct for heat soak of the stock sensor. It does not match the way air density changes with temperature in reality. They used some fuzzy math to make sure you still got enough fuel when the sensor incorrectly reads hot from heat soak and your intake temp was actually much lower.

The result of using a good sensor with the wonky stock table is a correction factor that puts too much fuel in at higher intake temps and leans out a bit at lower temps.

Probably not catastrophic, but I would personally not mix and match knowing what I know now.

See linked table: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hcn...ew?usp=sharing

 

@alexdimen Would you suggest still utilizing the stock IAT sensor then over the Triumph? Unless you move to a standalone (not PFC) that allows you to calibrate the IAT directly?

I've either been very lucky or something else is going on given what I've seen on my IAT readings at the track. I'm working on getting Powertune software and a digital dash setup to enable some track time logging for concrete data through the Datalogit but the readings on the commander definitely had me spooked.

With Wannaspeed (Triumph?) sensor and pigtail, stock location:

-AI Kit (only distilled water at the moment)
-HKS RS intakes
-Stock IC with stock ducting
-PowerFC (tuned to just around 260-270 bhp)
-BNR Stage 3 turbos/HKS DP (was wrapped, now with some kind of HKS ceramic coating)
-Stock hood

Glancing down at the PFC commander on main straights, under full boost from the secondary, I saw IATs of 80C.
Even after coming off the highway after cruising at 3k RPM with little boost, I would see heat soak and IATs soar into the 60Cs after sitting in place and idling for a bit. During the actual highway cruising with no/little boost, IATs would sit at around 30C, rarely going up to 40 unless I put my foot down.

I always wonder if I should reinstall the heat shielding on the twins but I'm not sure if the stock shields line up with the BNRs anymore (which have slightly longer housings in the middle). I'm hoping that the M2 medium that I'm fabricating V-mount brackets for will relieve the situation as well

Wouldn't I have detonated and blown my motor already if my IATs were actually at 80C? Am I lucky? Is the sensor off? Did the AI preventing detonations somehow?

 

No that's not what I was suggesting. My point is that the oem and preloaded pfc fuel vs intake temp tables do not follow actual air density. Look at the exel sheet i linked.

I can only recommend what I've seen good results with and what makes sense from a physics standpoint... that is using a fuel vs air table that matches actual air density change with temperature and using a sensor that reads air temp correctly. You can get that by using a Triumph iat and fc edit and/or fc tweak. IMO Your tuner should have corrected the fuel vs iat table from the get go.

80c is out of control. Def upgrade that IC and Extend the duct opening into the bumper opening to force air across the ic.

 

a slow reacting air temp sensor does not mean your tune is less safe or more prone to detonation. as air temp goes up, air density goes down, and requires less fuel for the same AFR. but you actually want to richen AFR as air temps go up, the extra fuel will work to cool it back down. a slow reacting air temp sensor causes this to happen naturally as it indicates a cooler temp when you get into boost and air heats up (ecu thinks density is up = more fuel, actual air density is down = less fuel), and probably why mazda was not too concerned about its slow reacting

 

Do you still sell this?