My car also has idle issues. At the lights idle will drop down to about 200rpm without stalling just backfires but sometimes idles at a normal 800rpm and 1100rpm. Wierd! Also when car is warm it's hard to start. Only hard to start when I don't cool the engine down before, starts easily if I cruise slowly then turn it off! Engine has 5000kms on rebuild, so hopefully my compression isn't F*&^ed!

 

You just need the 19 dollar one, I got mine for like 10 bucks though. Maybe your Mazda dealership is rippin you off.

 

My car sucks when its hot. It doesnt want to start. Ripzta and Zkeller, I have identical problems. How did you rid yourself of embarrasing traffic light stalls while your car wont restart?? Let me know I have been embarrased 1 too many times

 

I have the same problems and have researched the manual. This is what I plan to replace (while I have the UIM off) just to try and solve the problems...I already have the parts in hand.
1) ICS- to correct the idle while A/C is on .
2) Fuel Pressure control valve (and corresponding solenoid)- to hopefully help the warm starts.
I'll try the dashpot afterwards since it is on the front of the throttle body and more easily accessible. Ray at Malloy Mazda said that there is a "rebuild" kit availible for the dashpot for about 50 bucks.....

The "surgery" will take place soon and I will keep you guys informed as to the results........film at 11.......

Allen

 

i cant seem to see were you guys say were the clutch switch is located at

 

For you guys stalling at intersections and hard starts with a hot car.
I belive that the stalling is due to fast idle cam or dash post adjustments being off. The heat issue, well I have come to the conclusion that the engine will not start if over 101degrees C. I also have encountered that and the stalling at lights. I have been able to get rid of the stalling with adjustments of the FIC and Dash Pot. It might be worth checking to make sure your TPS is adjusted correctly as well.
So do what you must to keep the temps below 101 for a good start. I never had any heat related issues in the past but I used to run a m2 large and twins. Now I run with a t04r and a 3row FMIC.
I think that Evans NPG+, Wrapping the dwon pipe and running the fans all the time will correct this. Plus I really ought to upgrade my oil cooler from the BS stock touring single unit. Oh and I went from a vent MS hood back to a stock one.

Good luck and please check back if any of you have anything to add.

 

jdmluver,

The clutch switch is attached to the clutch pedal. When you depress the clutch, a little rod should spring out.

 

so the hott start issue is when you want to start, its hard??? mine is when its really hot (above 101, the idle is very lumpy until i give it some gas)


also, i have this problem and will be correcting it towards the end of the month..... i will do a full writeup and lots of pictures....

 

"I leave the car in gear, to the lowest RPM as possible
with out stalling, coming to a stop.. then i push in the
clutch and put in neutral. after a while you get used to
it and it comes natural.. WILL save you from some
embarassing moments.."

Well....i have an automatic can't push in the clutch :\ lol any tips for me ?

 

I think my stalling may be that my clutch switch is bad. The one that is closest to the driver, not the one closest to the firewall. Does anyone have a p/n and/or price? I'm thinking this may be the problem (along with my bad dashpot) because the other day I was adjusting my clutch and forgot to plug the switch back in, I noticed no difference at all. What exactly does this piece do?

 

Clutch switch: LA01-66-490A