i need some help, i have a 3g and when the car is running with the a/c on and it feels like the compressor switches on the call will low idle and stall. any advise would help.

 

Sorry guy..

I been tring to diagnose that for years.
eventually gave up.
Try the grounds.. It didn't work for me..

This is what I do to prevent mine from stalling
with the AC on:

I leave the car in gear, to the lowest RPM as possible
with out stalling, coming to a stop.. then i push in the
clutch and put in neutral. after a while you get used to
it and it comes natural.. WILL save you from some
embarassing moments..

What ever you do.. If you are rolling and your car stalls
DO NOT, put in gear and pop the clutch to jump start it.
EVENTUALLY you will Break your CLUTCH FORK..
** ask me how I know **
put it in neutral and turn the Key..

 

i have this too!!! wont raising the idle a little do it? it did it for me before and after my rebuild, it became like this again! i havent had time to fix it again but if your idle is set at 700 and the e/l unit raises it 200rpm, you will be at 900 and thats still too low. how about setting your idle to 900 or 1000? then it will rasie it to 1100 or 1200??? i know of a lot of people that idle at 1000 with no problems! i use to!

 

new clutch switch fixed this problem for me

 

what clutch switch?? the ac?

 

LA01-66-490A

 

thanks

 

thanks

 

what is this clutch switch?

i tried to look up the part number on mazdatrix, but it didnt come up in the parts catalog?

i also have this problem

 

I have the same problem too. Right now I just blip the throttle when downshifting and coming to a stop and let the rpm's drop slowly and it doesnt stall. Isnt there a relay that is supposed to tell the compressor to shut off when you take the load off the engine? If that relay is bad then the compressor may not be shutting off when you push the clutch in and it could be stalling the car. I'm not sure about this relay and I dont have a manual in front of me, but those of you that either do have the book or know more about the A/C system, is there such a relay?

 

I just fixed that problem 2 weeks ago, by also replacing the clutch switch. It is only $10 from Mazda and takes 2 minutes to put it. Search the forum for this, it has been disscused before and it will give u a lot of info.

 

I am currently experiencing the same. I will replace the clutch switch. There are two, a lower and one that is higher. Will replacing only the lower do the trick?
Either way thanks for the tip.

 

my engine was blown when it did this to me....

 

Another for clutch switch, however i also raised the idle at the same time I now idle at right around 1k. The switch is the upper one that has a little white plastic rod that pops out w/ the clutch depressed. Like Scratchjunkie said its parts #LA01-66-490A
and you can order it from your local mazda dealer mine was like 15 w/ taxes.

 

Could be a couple things.

Low compression will cause this. Is the car hard to start when warm?

Could be a bad BAC valve if you are lucky. Does the idle ramp up when the AC is switched on?

 

I found my probelm and It was actually the dash pot on the throttle body. Make sure to check that if you are having this stalling issue. My clutch switch spring was fine. I checked teh workshop manual and did my home work. Like I said It turned out to be a bad dashpot.

 

where is that located and how do you check it???

 

The dash pot is the 1" or so round **** looking deal on the front of the throttle body. It has a white plunger rod thing that comes out the back. Its about 1/8" thick and apx 1/4 of that hangs out of the dash pot. That rod should be touching the spring assembly rods that control the lower butteryfly in the throttle body. To inspect it you only to need to verify that it is actually touching the spring rods and at the one end and that the white plunger that comes out of the dash pot goes in slowly when pushed with yrou finger and springs back quickly when released. That dash pot keeps the butterfly from closing all the way once you let off the accelerator. Its in the workshop manual under deceleration controls.

 

If i'm not mistaken, there is also a ISC (Idle speed control) solenoid that controls idle when the A/C is cut on (and on automatics, when it is put in drive from neutral and park). If this is not functioning properly it will cause the engine to stall (per the manual). Just something to check....
Allen

 

ok i went to the dealer and ordered this part

LA01-66-490A


but they had a 2nd part? the said a 2nd clutch switch was next to it?
and it started the the part number H?

do i need that one also?

it costed 40$ and the LA01-66-490A costed 19$

 

on the dash pot?

is there a replacement and how much was it?
if its cheap ill just do the them both

 

Well I just stole one from another throttle body I had lying around. Sorry I dont know what that parts costs retail.

 

wait, so we need both the 20 dollat one and the 40 dollar one???? or just one?

 

dashpot is around $110 from a dealer, mazda motorsports has it for liek $60, but you need an account. If someone has an accoutn and wouldn't mind buying me one I would be forever greatful

 

I believe the dash pot is a source of problems but when your in neutral & switch the AC or the head lights etc on, the ISC circuit should bump the idle up to compensate for the load increase.

Over the last 12 years (FD RX-7=92+), surely the ISC ports would be clogging up with carbon etc & blocking air flow. This in turn would make the rpm drop as there is less & less "bleed" air happening plus, it would reduce the ability to raise the rpm when the AC etc is turned on creating a double trouble effect.

Am only 80% sure the ISC works this way so some back-up or rebuke would be welcomed.