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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 01:38 AM
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Electrical Problems?

Currently it's been cold outside not normal in california, my car has a problem with a acceleration hesitation, and low idle when braking my car wants to die when I brake, from what I know the electrical wiring throughout the car isnt the best, when I bought the car wiring was already jacked up, I took acouple vids for you guys to check out

This one is when Im driving, going into 3rd was weird I really had to give it gas to get over 3k, the little noise is my windsheild wipers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3Ew_-rMtjU

This one is the car at idle then I press the brakes, it wont die just goes all the way down
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wA7mLgwqHVU

any advise is appreciated!
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 02:04 AM
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I would start by checking your TPS. Also you might have a bad check valve located in the rubber hose going to your brake booster or also possibly a bad brake booster.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Your LIM ever been replaced?
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by psquare8
Your LIM ever been replaced?
Hmm since ive bought it no, but the previous owner said he had bigger injectors put in, and the new turbos are the only thing I've done to the car
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 08:20 PM
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Heres a vid of it running before this happened
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMZTAzXbBGM

here's a vid of the rotors spinning without the spark plugs in and fuse pulled, any suggestions?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqNh5biOTHw
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 02:58 AM
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not a loose intercooler pipe is it ?
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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Hmm idk if it has to due with the piping, my car has ate some spark plugs up fast if that's any help.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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I dont know about the low idle while braking but the slight hesistation could be the infamous 3k hesitation our cars get or basically just some fouled/worn spark plugs.

My car always runs SLIGHTLY funnier when its really cold out but when it warms up (or in warmer climates), all those funny things disappear and the car is normal.

Try changing the plugs since you have the plug holes open anyway and see what happens.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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I have put fresh 7's and 9's in And same problem , might be my plugs I haven't changed them since I've had the car and that's been in July should I run 9's all around?
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Gene!
I have put fresh 7's and 9's in And same problem , might be my plugs I haven't changed them since I've had the car and that's been in July should I run 9's all around?
From what I remember, running all 9's will alter cold idle startup but don't quote me on that. People recommend all 9s on a modified setup. Like all bolt ons etc.

I have all bolt ons minus pfc but I run 7 and 9 with no problem.

Ill post my cold startup video when I get home from work so you can compare to yours.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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Alright cool thanks, I look through my engine making sure everything is connected then look at my battery connect looks kinda bad any thoughts?

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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 11:58 AM
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Personally, I'd take it to a rotary specialist in your area and have them look the car over. It probably won't cost that much and will save you lots of time and probably some money if you start buying and swapping parts to diagnose.

Barring that, download and check the troubleshooting procedures in the Factory Service Manual (FSM) to research that idle drop during braking. The link to do so is stickied in this forum. I know there are 2 hoses with check valves from the power brake booster to the UIM that sometimes go bad but I don't know the symptoms.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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Actually yes a loose connection or even a discharged battery can lead to symptoms, especially in older cars like ours (with our weird electrical systems) and people who run alot of electronics, bigger fuel pump(s) etc.

But usually thats not the case in our cars in general but never know and your battery terminals should be clean anyway.

I would also check your grounds.

Here is a video of my cold startup.

[youtube]wCVl-UNP-tc[/youtube]


If you look closely in the video. When i start it up, the oil pressure and coolant warning lights, as well as my ABS are shown. I would have to rev it to EXACTLY 2000rpm for them to turn off, which you will see in the video.

This is ONLY when its COLD COLD out. It never does this in spring time nor summer time. Only when its cold out. Idk why but it doesnt affect idle, with or without the warning lights nor does it affect driveability or performance. Idk why it does it to this day.

That was a bone dry cold startup btw. Car sat for 5 days, which was about 35F when i did this video.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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Well I've been reading about the same symptoms and it might be my injectors so I'm going to take them out And get them flowed and cleaned, also I've noticed my car would rev stick at 3k rpms when I would downshift , any thoughts?
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene!
Well I've been reading about the same symptoms and it might be my injectors so I'm going to take them out And get them flowed and cleaned, also I've noticed my car would rev stick at 3k rpms when I would downshift , any thoughts?
I would check the tps and the iac.
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