Here's how to electrically test the driver's side window switch with a voltmeter, before disassembling the switch and hopefully without having to remove your driver's side door panel.
Still need to figure out why the driver's side main switch doesn't actuate the passenger side window but... one thing at a time.

My Problem:
Driver's side window was not going up or down. The passenger side window switch also does not work.

Troubleshooting Resource:
-Page Z-98 of the '94 Wiring Diagram, the W/L (white with blue stripe) wire is the switched 12V that supplies power to the window motor. R and G (red and green) wires go to the regulator and the motor.

Steps:
1. Remove the switch assembly. In my case, my door panel hole for the side view mirror switch is "stripped" so I can pop out the side view mirror switch very easily. I then reached down through that hole and pushed up while prying the window switch carefully with a flat blade screwdriver. Even if you can't do this, it seems fairly easy to pry out the window switch without pushing up from below.

2. Connect a lead to the switch harness pin that would correspond to the W/L wire from the K1-01 "body" harness (blue box in picture below). Note that not all wire colors on the switch harness mirror what's on the body harness.
Using a volt meter set on continuity check, when you put the other lead on the switch harness that corresponds to R (red box below) and you pull the switch to roll the window up, you should hear a tone.
Move this lead to the other pin on the switch harness, G (green box below). When you push the switch to roll down the window, you should hear a tone.

If you don't hear a tone, there is an issue with your switch and you can reference the other guides out there on disassembly and cleaning.

3. Check the "body" harness, K1-01. With electrics powered, the W/L pin should read 12 V and the B (black) pin below should always generate a tone when checking continuity to any metal on the body of the car (indicating ground).
This was where my issue was, the W/L pin was reading 0 V. Turns out the W/L wire pin had come out of my X-20 connector (the one from the door into the interior of the car). This was a major pain to resolve.
Unplugging the X-20 requires a sketchy amount of effort. I read you are supposed to pull the red tab (from the male connector outside the cabin) toward the door but I couldn't get it to move but a few milimeters, so I just pried and it came apart.

4. Check the regulator and motor.
My way is not the best way but it worked for me. I knew that my motor was still good since it had been working before I disassembled my dash. I did not have a 12V power supply with enough juice to actually move the motor, but I spliced some random 12/5V power supply and hooked it up to the R and G pins on the K1-01 body harness plug. With the power supply plugged in, I could hear a faint click as the motor tried to move. That was enough for me to say that it wasn't the K1-02 (regulator) plug.

Wiring Diagram, Page Z-98

 

Thanks for the guide. Can you please attach the image so that it becomes permanent to the forum?

 

@ arghx
let me know if this is alright