CantGoStraight

^^^^ Thinking the same thing.

DamonB

None of those could possibly cause the severity of the problem that you have. You either have an electronic problem or perhaps an injector issue since those were removed. As Kento said the ecu is pointing you to the TPS so there is some issue there. I'd swap the TPS with another known good one before I ruled it out, even though your measurements don't show a problem.

This is exactly what it feels like if the car is in limp mode. The engine runs fine until you put enough load on it and then instantly falls flat on its face.

I would swap the TPS. If that didn't change anything I would troubleshoot the injectors and fuel pressure. Don't go off on other tangents until you've ruled those out.

fsae_alum

Damon, I'm no longer getting codes but I am still getting the same problem. I DID swap the TPS out for a known good one and again.....same problem with no codes.

DGeesman and CantGoStraight....that's interesting that you suggest that. Max Cooper said that at one point in time he had the EXACT same problems and symptoms as I'm having (including the no codes) and it turned out that he had an injector that was stuck as a result of getting them cleaned at RC. Looking at the FSM and seeing that the secondaries only come on above 2750, I was seeing that it could be that something could wrong with my secondaries. I figure that my new course of action will be to remove the UIM and verify that harness connections aren't somehow swithced. If they aren't then I'll jump FP and GND to have the pump pressurize the rail. I'll then remove the jumper and unplug the injectors one by one and briefly click them open with battery voltage to make sure that they're working. If in testing one of them doesn't result in a drop in rail pressure, I'll have determined that it's an injector problem for sure. Why not just take the rail off you ask....wouldn't it be easier to unflood the engine as opposed to digging back into vacuum lines around the rats nest? Unfortunately I won't be able to get to work on this until tomorrow night.

Thanks everybody for tuning in and helping out!!! It's very much appreciated!

DamonB

^ Now that you have no codes your issue does support the secondary injectors not working properly as they only come online once a certain engine load is reached. I think your plan to check them sounds like a good one. If your plan doesn't turn anything up I'd try a different set of secondary injectors.

I'd test the injectors with no fuel pressure first; no sense in flooding the engine right off the bat if you don't have to. If the injectors seem to be opertional with battery voltage then pressurize the system and monitor fuel pressure as you test individual injectors.

When problems like this occur 99 times out of 100 it's because something you did caused the problems (this doesn't automatically mean it was your fault Just think about parts that were changed etc ). Secondary injectors could absolutely cause your problem and since they were recently removed, serviced and installed I think odds are good you'll find some sort of issue with them.

No Cones

I would bet AT LEAST a dollar that you have a secondary injector issue. Primaries are most likely operating fine as you have good driveability at low rpm and no boost. Just ground the secondary injectors at the ECU to confirm you can hear a click. No click, got a problem.

Btw, I had a suspected bad 2ndary, sent it to get tested and cleaned, it tested and flowed fine. I reinstalled and still had the same issue. After much additional (and needless, I might add) frustration I finally decided to replace the supposed good injectors. Voila! Problem solved.

fsae_alum

I also talked to a local RX-7 specialist/mechanic and he said that he has seen caes in the past where people have disconnected and reconnected the TPS harness connection so much that they actualy pushed out a wire or terminal in the connector and that led to the same problem.

He also told me that one easy way to tell that the front injectors are plugged into the correct harness connector is that the front harness connectors have white paint on them while the rear connectors do not.

fsae_alum

Update....

1.) Checked for codes and none present
2.) Started car and let it warm up for about 10 minutes
3.) Once warmed up and with the engine still running, unplugged and re-plugged the TPS connector back in (twice to make sure the ECU would catch it). When it was unplugged, the revs started bouncing around a tad bit. Smoothed back out once I pulgged it back in.
4.) Turned off the car and checked for codes....got a 12 and an 18 (TPS narrow and wide).
5.) Verified that pins on TPS look good as well as mating contacts on harness plug.
6.) Cleared codes.1
7.) Checked codes again and got an all clear from the ECU.
8.) Took it out for a spin and same problem as before with it falling on it's face.

Think this now rules out the TPS. That's all for tonight. I'll start looking at injectors tomorrow night. Thanks everybody!!

-Money

fsae_alum

Finally had some time to rip the UIM off and check thing sout. Verified that all the connectors were plugged in correctly and the vacuum lines were going to the right places and weren't kinked. Then I tested the Secondaries and bingo....no clicky. When I alligator clipped the two pins on the front secondary injector to the battery positive and negative terminals....no clicking at all.....even if I listen with an auto stethoscope with it beiong placed directly on top of the injector. Same thing happens to the rear secondary injector as well. I know the battery is good because I had my Battery Tender on it just before I started testing and it was showing the battery was good. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I SHOULD hear a clearly audible click of the injectors when they have power and ground applied to them right? This sucks because WitchHunter cleaned and flowed them right before installation. Dammit.....

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

That's unfortunate. How long after the cleaning was it until they were used?

I have used a 9v battery and always get a nice click when testing the injectors. So unless there was background noise, I would assume they're stuck.

Just on the chance the harness was damaged - I would measure the resistance of the injector from the ecu pin to the main relay. That was also the circuit I used for my battery click test.

Dave

fsae_alum

dgeesaman...two days of shipping plus two days of getting the car all back together.

It was DEAD quite in my garage last night at 9 PM. I had all doors and windows closed just to make sure that I wouldn't pick up any background noise that would mask the injectors. No clicks at all. I've worked around DC solenoids long enough to know that they should click when hit with voltage and ground. Furthermore, it's typicaly a fairly audible click.

I checked the resistance of the injectors last night at the injectors and they checked out within spec. I'll plug the harness back in and check at the ECU tonight.

I just got off the phone with WitchHunter and they told me to give them a few taps on the top of each injector with a hammer to see if that frees them up as that usually does the trick. If that doesn't work they recommended yanking them out and soaking the bottom half in WD40. If that doesn't work, they said that they'd take them back and see what they could do.

The highly ironic part in all of this is that when WitchHuner did the flow test before the cleaning, they flowed with 5% of what they should flow.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I was doing my click tests outdoors, and even there it was pretty easy to hear a click.

Well, it's always good to pinpoint the source of the problem. Injectors are just an annoying thing to deal with since they can be flaky.

Dave

DamonB

If they're functional you'll hear them; you can feel it too. Once you know what injectors really sound like you can quite easily hear them even when the engine is idling!

Good news is you found the culprit. Bad news is you're waiting again. Sorry.

fsae_alum

Sure enough, it was the secondaries. Per he directions of WitchHunter, I basically played the drums on the car last night with one hand tapping on top of the injector with a wrench and the other hand tapping a power wire to the battery. About a minute of the drum solo per injector and they start clicking. Put it all back together, check for codes (none present) fire it up and let it warm up. Take it out for a spin and have the biggest grin on my face in months as soon as I get about 30 fet from the driveway. Absolutely great!!! Thanks everybody for the help! You've all been just awesome. Thanks again!!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Good show!!

Light up the tires!!

kraked

resurrecting this thread.... I have this same problem... got my injectors cleaned at witchhunters and now the car falls flat on boost.

Just wondering though, why would cleaning injectors cause them to stick?