I have not been in this section of the board for quite some time even though I am a "senior member".

I see ALOT of posts, is it blown, please tell me its not blown, is my motor blown....

I have found over the years that the first thing is to compression test AND if coolant seals are thought to be bad, pressurize the cooling system.

for the DIY, Harbor Freight has an awesome coolant pressure testing system which has an adaptor that fits the FD filler neck and the AST.

You need a true rotary compression test which shows the health of each face. There is a kit available from rotarydiagnostics.com. Either this kit or the Mazda OEM, if you can find one, I feel is a must have for every rotary powered RX7 owner, with a wideband at close second.

Just my two cents.

 

Looks fine. Nice even pulses.

 

I agree Zach, except that I won't buy a compression tester since I'm close enough to borrow yours.

Also the Autozone coolant pressure tester kit does a nice job on the FD and it's free.

 

One common misconception is you need an expensive compression tester to see if an engine is blown or bad.

THIS IS NOT THE CASE.

Get a basic compression tester. Harbor Freight has one for $10 -

http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-dr...ter-92697.html

Disable fuel and spark, screw the tester into a plug hole on one rotor (I usually do the trailling hole), have a buddy get in the car and floor the gas pedal and crank.

Hold down the release button on the side of the tester and watch the needle. You should see a pattern of 3 even bounces. If you see a high bounce then 2 low bounces, you've got a broken apex seal. If you have 2 high bounces and one low bounce, you've got a bad or stuck side seal.

You can also let go of the button on the tester and let the numbers build up. This will give you a general picture of the "tightness" of the motor.

If you have 3 even bounces on both rotors, the apex seals are OK.

The rotary-specific testers will give exact numbers for each rotor face. That's nice, but it really isn't necessary to determine if a motor is bad or not.

BTW, you can also get plain compression testers at pretty much any auto parts store. The one I have is from Autozone.

This will give you the yes/no answer to "is my engine blown?" If no, start troubleshooting in another direction.

Dale

 

^
I've had basically that exact tester for years, except I broke the release button off. Just need to watch the bounces.

 

Get a tester with a stainless braided hose for longevity. My Craftsman rubber hose tester lasted just long enough to be out of warranty.

 

That was just an example.

 

Anytime Dave!

 

I've never seen the need for the el cheapo piston compression testers..... my ears work just as good if not better

I do agree that a rotary-specific compression tester is worth it's weight in gold though.

 

^ How can you hear it with all that starter noise?

Either way since we are on this topic, this is blown correct?

Front
http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN3417.mp4

Rear
http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN3416.mp4

 

Its actually not that difficult to hear the pulses.

remove one spark plug from each housing and have at it

 

Whoosh, wish wish is not good. Whoosh Whoosh Whoosh is good.

 

+1 LOL

 

Most times I can hear it by the way the car sounds at idle.

 

Ok I'll try again, last I tried all I can hear is starter noise. How about the 2 videos I posted? Is the rear blown?

 

They look even from what I can see. that does not mean that there is not a chip near the corner seal. You may not have totally grenaded it.

That scenerio is hard to see with the Needle Bopper Compression Tester.

Take a video of the car idling like Rich said. And if you have a boost gauge that reads vaccum, take vid of that too.

 

Doesn't look like a blown apex seal.

 

Last time it ran was back in September when I took her out for a cruise with some local member, everything was fine till I start her up after we stopped for an hour, that's when she started idling at 500rpm. Boost gauge read about 11-12inHg, both gauge are steady and not bouncing. I was able to start her up again next morning, but that was the last time I was able to turn her over.

 

Here, get this tester. It is bad *** and worth every penny. IMO, most of us have poured a boatload of coin into our cars what's another 400 bones?
http://rotarydiagnostics.com/model_rect-03b.htm

I am in no way affiliated with Rotary Diagnostics. I just own and use this bad boy and it works flawlessly and is extremely accurate.

 

Just got mine yesterday, I'll be doing a test this weekend.

 

What kind of test can you do on a motor that isn't in a car? Due to a few factors I've neglected the car for many years. I was 50% don't making many modifications including injectors and ignition so it run but I haven't tried in years. I guess I can hook the starter back up to try this test, but is there an equivalent that I can do if I have the motor out of the car to see if I need to rebuild it?

It ran great last time it ran....in 2007. For about 2 years I stupidly left the coolant in it and read that I probably rusted the coolant passage by the iron so I may end up having to replace.

Don't want to rebuild it just to rebuild it, but also don't want to finish it and expect it to crank and be fine when it might not.

I'll take any suggestions.

 

You can test the motor outside the car. You can buy a remote starter from Harbor Freight for like $15. Hook up your bellhousing and starter to the engine. Use one of the compression testers above...authentic or basic...and follow the steps as normal.

Your compression will test higher on a cold engine outside of a car as compression should be tested on a warm engine.

 

Just did one yesterday, it is done on a cold engine tho.

Front


Rear

 

what was the cranking rpm?

 

~230rpm