Yeah, R888s are a track tire.

Are you sure what you're feeling isn't tramlining? Big fat sticky tires will tend to dart around and hunt/seek over road imperfections, made even more prominent with stiff springs and/or insufficient damping, or an aggressive alignment.

Offset
 

Might not be the tires, but its pretty easy to swap rear wheels/tires to see.

It wasnt till my 295 R888 were half worn that they began trammeling in the rear. The tread squirm at full tread height damped the trammeling before that.

If you dont already have aftermarket rear trailing arms with spherical link front pivot you will need that with the rear wheel/tire set-up you have as even front poly bushings deflect a good deal here.

I have the e-power steering unit, installed about 2 years ago. Yes, it fits under the dash, there is a box in the way (Air bag, I think), just needed to Tetris it out.

The unit is silent, easy install, resistance is easily adjustable, cleans up engine bay. No pics, car at body shop for a new paint job for past year. 😅

-Ed

Electric power steering
 

Thanks. I think thats my best option. I juat need to figure out if it will work with a Chips Motorsports rack. I sent my power steering rack there. They supposedly did aomething to it to make it work better as a manual steering rack. I dont know what they did.

Correct. However this gentleman is complaining about a situation with an unassisted rack in a fundamentally stock geometry and configuration that DOES in fact have more bump steer than people seem to understand or give credit to. Go for the power assist to dampen the issue, however even they call it a bandaid:

https://epowersteering.com/bump-stee...ower-steering/

I personally would, and have, done both.

Bumpsteer and manual steering
 

Thanks so much. I am going to put a call in to Chips and Shock Therapy. I hope shock therapy works on cars. What amazes me is that I never noticed any of this tiñl I went to a manual rack. Its amazinng that the power steering could mask bump steer that well. The upper and lower control arms and tie rods are stock. The only suspension change was the fortune coil overs. Thanks again for the link tonthe bump steer video. I finally understand what makes it happen.

If it's using the stock steering shaft from the column to the rack - which would be the logical way to do it - it's going to work.

Be aware if you happen to be a crash test dummy, I can't see anyway the epower system can retain a collapsible element in the steering column, the motor takes up the area where the lower component slides into the upper in an impact.....https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-gene...1149857/page2/

Did you check the upper universal joint in particular in the steering shaft prior to the rack fitment too?

Yes, I literally said this in my original reply to this thread.

E power Steering.
 

Thanks for the tips. I check the joint

At the risk of getting all 'Ackshually' and neckbeardy - you didn't mention bumpsteer until your third reply and in general it's been brought up with the caveat of lowered and/or stiffer springs, which is the reason why I replied to your comment.

What I'm trying to point out to everyone else and what seems to have initially been glossed over is that as fantastic as FDs are, they came with more than a tiny amount of bump steer from the factory and PS in and of itself has masked it - no amount of quality manufacturing of a completely stock mounted rack such as Chips is going to fix the issue without some sort of bumpsteer elimination kit/geometry change.

Bumpsteer
 

I am going to a suspension shop today. I want to make sure their is some tow in. Everything else will be checked as well. My ride height and suspension are stock. Wide front tires and different springs can certainly contribute as well. Will advise. Thanks for your comments. None are ignored.

I literally said "You will get more feedback through the wheel with manual—its bumpsteer, especially on a lowered car." ... the beginning of this comment says, the PS masks what is already inherent in the FD, and will be made more apparent, not only with a manual rack, but also additional lowering, stiffer springs, etc.

What I was really trying to assess is whether what the OP is experiencing is within the realm of normal for the setup, or something excessive. I'm not actually convinced it's the latter.

Bumpsteer Reply
 

Bumps --- Not huge bumps, can jerk the steering wheel at least 8 inches side to side. Radical. We are not talking about regular infinitesimal chatrer. Its on the rack and its way out of wack from a front rear alignment standpoint. Lets see what we get here and I will post the before after results along with my driving mpression. Thanks for all the input guys.

@dguy Do you happen to have any measurements on bumpsteer?
I found a video from @frijolee of Ronin Does that jive with your experience?

Roughly, I seem to remember being closer to .100" versus his ~.125", though the gist is the same. I think we're also using the same Longacre bumpsteer plate/gauge setup.

Electric Power Steering and Alignment Results
 

Hey guys. Thanks for the feedback. I promised results of good alignment and what it offered in the way of improved handling. Keep in mind that I just picked up my car at Redline Performance where they told they had the car professionally aligned. If they did, they need to find a different alignment guy, or stop charging for it. I will stop there with my review of Redline. The car actually had 11 degrees of negative toe in the front. Both side of the car were set up differently with regards to caster and camber. The rear had 30 degrees of negative toe with camber off by 6 points side to side. They restored the toe to 10 degrees of positive toe, front tires pointing towards each other. Brought the rear to close to zero thrust angle and 12 degrees of positive toe. It drives significantly better to the point that I am positive that it can feel near perfect with the dampening offered by an electric power steering system. I was forwarded a link to epowersteering.com. I think that is the way I am going to go. Has anyone put their system in and can you give me the positive and negative highlights of the install. As always, my thanks to my brothers in pain, that continue to deny the crusifying pain of doing a full on build. Especially if you are as mentally challenged as I am.

Wow that's astonishingly off. Almost like they forgot to tighten the cam/lock bolts down, you'd have to work to put it that far off. It would have been visible to the naked eye. 6 degrees camber off side to side?! Again, you'd need to work to get that.

That's still a lot of toe you have front/rear, I don't think I'm running more than 1/16" toe in front, and def zero in the rear. 10 degrees?

Please check the FSM for alignment specs.
All those numbers you mention are way off and not even close to reasonable.
Jim T